The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

MERITAGE, 5454 Post Road, Warwick (884-1255). A non-descript facade gives the impression of a banquet hall, but inside Meritage is decorated in warm tones with art-deco accents, offering a cozy atmosphere in the main dining rooms. The lighting is dim and intimate, perfect for a romantic dinner for two. Appetizers include expertly prepared shrimp ($8), seasoned with teriyaki sauce and Cajun spices and accompanied by a delicious spinach garnish. For main courses, the Yucatan scrod ($11), topped with a mixture of cilantro and cornbread, and the 10-ounce sirloin steak ($13) both come highly recommended, and both are accompanied by smashed potatoes and butternut squash. For desserts, the pizza melba ($6) is the bargain of the night. Topped with a sweet blend of mascarpone and cream cheese, banana slices, blueberries and drizzled with a fruity melba sauce, the pizza is a taste sensation that could serve two couples. The tiramisu ($5) is no less pleasing. Meritage is truly enticing. (10/99)

THE PLACE, 28 Washington Square, Newport (847-0116). Tucked away in a corner of Yesterday's, a popular burger pub, The Place offers excellent and elegant dining in a hidden location. Photos of turn-of-the-century Newport, art deco and Tiffany lamps, brass rails and dark wainscotting set the mood. In the kitchen, executive chef Alex Daglis draws on diverse Latin, Mediterranean and Asian influences with delightful results. One emphasis is on the grill, with such choices as Thai curried shrimp, chipotle-marinated chicken and maple-glazed duck breast. A simpler, signature item, the lobster and corn chowder with shrimp ($6.95) featured a beautiful color and sweet undertaste with luxurious tidbits of lobster and shrimp. Seared with an Asian five-spice crust, Chilean sea bass ($24.95) was served with a port wine reduction, a few pan-seared scallops, a large grilled portobello cap, sweet pepper risotto and grilled asparagus. Neither the spices nor the wine overwhelmed the delicious sweet-fleshed fish and scallops. Only the risotto disappointed, since it was underdone. Other entree choices include the hoisin-glazed pork tenderloin ($19.95), and a sometime special of red snapped medallions with lobster sauce ($26.95). On the dessert front, the warm blueberry tart and chocolate waffle are good closers. (9/99)

SEA VIEW STATION, 40 Boston Neck Road, North Kingstown (295-8666). A friendly, homey restaurant which doesn't overwhelm the diner with its eccentricities. Squeaky-clean and brightly-lit, the building which houses the restaurant once was a station on the Sea View Railroad, which carried passengers from East Greenwich to the beach at Narragansett Pier. The selection of appetizers includes Buffalo chicken wings ($4.75), shrimp in a basket ($3.95) and the particularly good baked stuffed quahogs ($1.49 each). The New England clam chowder ($2.75-$3.75) is similarly excellent, as is another traditional Rhode Island item, the painstakingly crafted johnnycakes ($1.75). For entrees, there are a half-dozen choices of Black Angus beef, including 10-ounce burgers ($7.95) and the Saturday night prime rib special ($11-$20). Non-beef selections include a broiled, crumbed filet of flounder ($11.49) and a tasty chicken pot pie ($8.95). Desserts are made at a nearby bakery and range from cheesecakes to various deaths by chocolate. The pecan pie ($2.75) is flavorful, but not too sweet, and the Reese's Pieces peanut butter cup pie ($3.75) is a favorite. The Sea View Station brings it all home, if what you've a yen for is home. (10/99)

TRIESTE, 359 Main St., Wakefield (783-9944). Far from just another Al Forno wannabe, this BYOB cafe and trattoria has leapt onto the short list of places that could make a Northern Italian think he's died and gone to Tuscany. Dim lighting and bistro-style tables keep the focus on the food, where interesting spins on what could otherwise be prosaic is a constant. One appetizer, for example, features smoked venison instead of the typical prosciutto, and Trieste's calamari ($6.95) is grilled to winning effect by chef Gene Allsworth, rather than fried. Interesting choices, such pan-roasted quails in cavatelli ($18.95), and confit of rabbit ($24.95), hide in the menu. The prototypical simple chicken dish, penne e pollo ($15.95) is slow-roasted for succulence, rather than simply pan-fried, and served with wild mushrooms and oven-roasted tomatoes, in a butter sauce with roasted garlic, to maximize every taste. Two of the most popular "dolcis" -- warm bread pudding ($6), and a bittersweet chocolate cake ($7), were also top-notch. If everyone around here who loves Italian restaurants visits this place, the already demanding culinary expectations in Rhode Island will get even more exacting. And why not? Every neighborhood deserves a Trieste. (10/99)