The following listings have been distilled from recent
full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the
month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not
included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some
menus change seasonally.
CAFE LUNA, 22 Midway Road, Cranston (944-1438). If you're looking for relaxing and al fresco dining, head
straight to Cafe Luna in the heart of the Garden City shopping district. Start
off your summer feast by picking from an extensive menu of specials which
feature the best of the season. The grilled chicken ($9.95) has a vibrant look
and taste. Served with a mild salsa of green olives and tomato, the two thick,
juicy breast halves featured a smoky backyard grilled flavor. The vegetable
lasagna special ($9.50), with its layers of sautéed mushroom, summer
squash, spinach and ricotta cheese, was super-fresh and delicious. Kahlua
sombrero cake ($3.25) and chocolate chip cheesecake ($3.25) were winning
choices for dessert. If only one could enjoy such pleasures of outdoor dining
when winter arrives. (7/99)
ELI'S, 457 Chapel St., Block Island (466-5230). Named for the late,
beloved black labrador of this restaurant's chef and owner, Eli's offers a
whimsical atmosphere. Scallops with wild mushroom ravioli ($26) proved to be
irresistible as a special. The chopped mushroom ravioli, baked with a copious
amount of mozzarella, was accompanied by fresh asparagus, huge sea scallops,
plus whole crimini, porcini and oyster mushrooms for a strong and distinctive
taste. Tuna tanaka ($23) also proved to be a successful combination. The
yellowfin steak was encrusted with sesame seeds, seared on the outside and left
medium rare inside. Accompanying taste contrasts were provided by fresh mangoes
and roasted peppers; a mix of wild and saffron rice; string and wax beans; and
a robust ratatouille-strength red sauce with fortifying chunks of eggplant.
Carrot cake ($5.50), served warm with cream cheese frosting, made for an
excellent end to dinner. For a shrine, Eli's is a dog-gone good restaurant.
(7/99)
MI GUATEMALA, 1049 Atwells Avenue, Providence (621-9147). The foods of Latin
America and the Caribbean islands are on the rise in Providence, and Mi
Guatemala's intriguing dishes take you on a south-of-the-border journey far
beyond tacos. The soups include beef, hen, chicken, egg, cow-feet and tripe in
large, shareable portions. Appetizers tend to be heavy on the meat side, too,
but the tamalitos de chipilin ($1.75) -- a soothing steamed corn lump mixed
with a mild Guatemalan mint -- and the pupusas chapinas ($2) -- soft, cheesy
tortillas served with steamed cabbage and tomato sauce -- offer a delicious
break from meat. For entrées we tried three things. The first was pepian
($6.75), a chicken stew with a pumpkin seed sauce that was mild-flavored and
accompanied by rice and warm tortillas. The second was the tipico nacional
($9.99), thin pieces of pork that are quick-fried after being marinated in
annato and garlic for a day or so. It came with everything -- rice, beans,
soup, salad, etc. Third, there was the pollo con crema ($7.49), chicken stew
cooked with onions, sweet red peppers, and sour cream. It was wonderful. Mi
Guatemala has so much more, too: sweetened, hot-milk drinks ($2), fried
plantains ($1.75), a great bar of Guatemalan specialties. The excursion up
Federal Hill carries you across time and distance. And it's quite a trip!
(3/99)
RUE DE L'ESPOIR, 99 Hope St., Providence (751-8890). The warm bistro
feeling of the Rue will charm you. Step in and fall for the "leaning tower of
portobello" ($14.95), Napoleonic in its construction, the tower's foundation is
layered with wilted chard, roasted red peppers, oregano and basil-flavored
ricotta, and then a buttery risotto cake. This edifice ends with a flourish in
the form of an enormous wood-grilled portobello cap. Another delicious choice
is the grilled chicken breast ($16.95), which is sliced over six homemade
ravioli, filled with spinach, mushrooms, smoked gouda and ricotta. The dish is
topped with a fresh herb pesto cream that gives a lemony hint to the succulent
chicken. The array of desserts ($5.95 and $6.95), which include flan with fresh
berries, espresso cheesecake, and apple-cranberry pie, are similarly pleasing.
Overall, the allure of the food and atmosphere at the Rue is likely to make you
swoon. (7/99)
THE SEA FARE'S AMERICAN CAFE, Brick Market Place, Newport (849-9188).
The award-winning Sea Fare in Newport offers up a selection of tempting
seafood. One tantalizing choice is seafood pasta ($15.95), linguini smothered
in a light tomato-basil sauce, with plenty of scallops and shrimp, a lobster
tail and four littlenecks. For a distinctive dish, try the cod fillet, which is
triple-dipped in flour, cornmeal and crushed potato chips. That crunchy coating
against the soft flesh of the fish is a real delight. Two of the half-dozen
desserts ($4.95 each) at Sea Fare's are housemade: the sliced apples baked in
phyllo dough, and the chocolate meltaway, winner of Newport Life's award
for best dessert in '97 and '98. This chocolate cupcake baked with warm
chocolate pudding in its middle is a decadent finale and indeed a winner.
(7/99)