[Sidebar] July 29 - August 5, 1999
[Food Reviews]
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The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

CAFE LUNA, 22 Midway Road, Cranston (944-1438). If you're looking for relaxing and al fresco dining, head straight to Cafe Luna in the heart of the Garden City shopping district. Start off your summer feast by picking from an extensive menu of specials which feature the best of the season. The grilled chicken ($9.95) has a vibrant look and taste. Served with a mild salsa of green olives and tomato, the two thick, juicy breast halves featured a smoky backyard grilled flavor. The vegetable lasagna special ($9.50), with its layers of sautéed mushroom, summer squash, spinach and ricotta cheese, was super-fresh and delicious. Kahlua sombrero cake ($3.25) and chocolate chip cheesecake ($3.25) were winning choices for dessert. If only one could enjoy such pleasures of outdoor dining when winter arrives. (7/99)

ELI'S, 457 Chapel St., Block Island (466-5230). Named for the late, beloved black labrador of this restaurant's chef and owner, Eli's offers a whimsical atmosphere. Scallops with wild mushroom ravioli ($26) proved to be irresistible as a special. The chopped mushroom ravioli, baked with a copious amount of mozzarella, was accompanied by fresh asparagus, huge sea scallops, plus whole crimini, porcini and oyster mushrooms for a strong and distinctive taste. Tuna tanaka ($23) also proved to be a successful combination. The yellowfin steak was encrusted with sesame seeds, seared on the outside and left medium rare inside. Accompanying taste contrasts were provided by fresh mangoes and roasted peppers; a mix of wild and saffron rice; string and wax beans; and a robust ratatouille-strength red sauce with fortifying chunks of eggplant. Carrot cake ($5.50), served warm with cream cheese frosting, made for an excellent end to dinner. For a shrine, Eli's is a dog-gone good restaurant. (7/99)

MI GUATEMALA, 1049 Atwells Avenue, Providence (621-9147). The foods of Latin America and the Caribbean islands are on the rise in Providence, and Mi Guatemala's intriguing dishes take you on a south-of-the-border journey far beyond tacos. The soups include beef, hen, chicken, egg, cow-feet and tripe in large, shareable portions. Appetizers tend to be heavy on the meat side, too, but the tamalitos de chipilin ($1.75) -- a soothing steamed corn lump mixed with a mild Guatemalan mint -- and the pupusas chapinas ($2) -- soft, cheesy tortillas served with steamed cabbage and tomato sauce -- offer a delicious break from meat. For entrées we tried three things. The first was pepian ($6.75), a chicken stew with a pumpkin seed sauce that was mild-flavored and accompanied by rice and warm tortillas. The second was the tipico nacional ($9.99), thin pieces of pork that are quick-fried after being marinated in annato and garlic for a day or so. It came with everything -- rice, beans, soup, salad, etc. Third, there was the pollo con crema ($7.49), chicken stew cooked with onions, sweet red peppers, and sour cream. It was wonderful. Mi Guatemala has so much more, too: sweetened, hot-milk drinks ($2), fried plantains ($1.75), a great bar of Guatemalan specialties. The excursion up Federal Hill carries you across time and distance. And it's quite a trip! (3/99)

RUE DE L'ESPOIR, 99 Hope St., Providence (751-8890). The warm bistro feeling of the Rue will charm you. Step in and fall for the "leaning tower of portobello" ($14.95), Napoleonic in its construction, the tower's foundation is layered with wilted chard, roasted red peppers, oregano and basil-flavored ricotta, and then a buttery risotto cake. This edifice ends with a flourish in the form of an enormous wood-grilled portobello cap. Another delicious choice is the grilled chicken breast ($16.95), which is sliced over six homemade ravioli, filled with spinach, mushrooms, smoked gouda and ricotta. The dish is topped with a fresh herb pesto cream that gives a lemony hint to the succulent chicken. The array of desserts ($5.95 and $6.95), which include flan with fresh berries, espresso cheesecake, and apple-cranberry pie, are similarly pleasing. Overall, the allure of the food and atmosphere at the Rue is likely to make you swoon. (7/99)

THE SEA FARE'S AMERICAN CAFE, Brick Market Place, Newport (849-9188). The award-winning Sea Fare in Newport offers up a selection of tempting seafood. One tantalizing choice is seafood pasta ($15.95), linguini smothered in a light tomato-basil sauce, with plenty of scallops and shrimp, a lobster tail and four littlenecks. For a distinctive dish, try the cod fillet, which is triple-dipped in flour, cornmeal and crushed potato chips. That crunchy coating against the soft flesh of the fish is a real delight. Two of the half-dozen desserts ($4.95 each) at Sea Fare's are housemade: the sliced apples baked in phyllo dough, and the chocolate meltaway, winner of Newport Life's award for best dessert in '97 and '98. This chocolate cupcake baked with warm chocolate pudding in its middle is a decadent finale and indeed a winner. (7/99)

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