The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

THE ALVA, 41 Mary St., Newport (846-6200). If your in the mood for dining with the Vanderbilts, so to speak, head for the Alva Restaurant at Vanderbilt Hall. The restaurant named for Alfred Vanderbilt is a mini-mansion that was once donated by Vanderbilt to Newport as a YMCA. Chefs Lee Hillson and Sean Chayer offer a prix fixe seasonal menu for $55 which includes canapés, soup, a fish course, sorbet, a main course, dessert and coffee with petit fours. Items may be substituted from the a la carte menu or your entire dinner can be ordered a la carte. Lobster bisque, with strong seafood stock, a hint of brandy and pieces of fresh lobster, tickled our palates in many different ways. The tagliatelle noodles with alfredo sauce ($12.50) was rich and creamy, sprinkled with diced sweet red and yellow peppers. The pan-fried snapper ($22) was served atop a molded mound of saffron potato puree with sautéed pea pods and cherry tomatoes in the moat below. The plushness of dining at Alva will transport you to a time of taken-for-granted luxury, even in what was once a YMCA. (5/99)

EMPIRE, Empire Street, Providence, (621-9711). The opening of Empire has been eagerly awaited by food fans who have memorized Empire's pedigree: owners and Johnson & Wales grads Loren Falsone and Eric Moshier formerly worked at Al Forno, and Al Forno's owner-chefs, Johanne Killeen and George Germon, have invested in the enterprise. The menu consisted of three pizzas, three pastas, eight sandwiches, plus appetizers, salads and desserts. Shrimp were pan-grilled to perfection and shaved fennel was nicely coated with a lemon vinaigrette in a tasty salad ($12). Also delicious was the portobello and celery root piadina (wrapped sandwich). It offered many taste sensations: grilled portobello mushroom slices, thin celeriac slices, goat cheese and cilantro. This was accompanied by a cucumber, carrot, zucchini and sweet red pepper salad and by Empire's signature double-fried Yukon gold potatoes. Although the lunch menu does not make this explicit, the made-to-order desserts, such as caramelized apple tart ($6) and coconut mascarpone soufflé ($7), should be ordered at the same time as your meal to accommodate time for their baking. Never mind -- the wait was worth it. (5/99)

THE GROCERIA, 159 Weybosset St., Providence (751-5911). Now that's something you don't see everyday -- a grocery store with a bar. Yet the cafe, tucked into one corner of the former Food Basket grocery store, is cozy and intimate for any meal of the day, even amid cases of fresh produce. In the California roll appetizer ($6.75), the five light rolls of crabmeat, avocado, rice, and cucumber, wrapped in roasted seaweed and drizzled in a ginger sauce were delicious. The Italian-style tuna, served with artichokes and flavorful black olive pesto on a chewy baguette, was amazingly fresh and hearty in the tonno and artichoke sandwich ($5.50). It was accompanied by scrumptious artichoke hearts in a light oil, and oven-roasted red bliss potato salad. A flavorful grilled boneless chicken breast ($7.95), marinated in a fruity citrus marinade, was served with grilled slices of eggplant and lightly seasoned artichoke hearts. For dessert was a slice of triple layer chocolate zucchini cake ($3.50). (5/99)

OCEAN MIST, 145 Matunuck Beach Road, South Kingstown (782-3740). From the outside Matunuck's Ocean Mist looks like another weather-beaten, tourist-town dive. But don't let it's exterior deceive you. You'll be tantalized to dive into a surprisingly successful menu, laden with Mexican food. All of the nine listed "Dawn Patrol Specials" offered at breakfast are $6.50 and come served with home fries. Choose one of the specials and you can get a mimosa or bloody Mary for $2. The breakfast burrito was filled with scrambled eggs, cheddar, salsa and both black and pinto beans, then topped with enchilada sauce. Eggs Benedict, served with an option of ham or veggies, were cooked just right with a nice and snappy Hollandaise sauce. The best time to show up is Thursday evening when Linda Wadensten, of the Seahorse Grill, shows off her south of the border flair. Try the Cuervo mango chicken ($8.25). This tequila-marinated chicken was grilled and served atop corn bread with fresh mango slices. Like most of the Mexican specialties it was served with beans and Spanish rice. The Ocean Mist menu brags, "More than just a beach bar!!" It's worth drinking to that, even when the margaritas are more than two bucks. (5/99)