The Groceria

Zesty fare stars at this downtown café

by Dawn Keable

159 Weybosset St., Providence, 751-5911
Open Mon-Thurs, 7:30 a.m.-7 p.m., Fri, 7:30 a.m.-8 p.m.,
and Sat, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

Now that's something you don't see every day -- a grocery store with a bar. And we're not talking your protein shake or fruit smoothy bar (although I'm sure at the Groceria they could easily whip up one of these as well). This one comes complete with a bartender, doubling as a waiter and cashier, to listen to your problems. As an added bonus, he'll even come tableside and pull up a chair to lend a sympathetic ear, as he did for a friend and me. Just realize that if he abruptly leaves your conversation, it probably wasn't anything you said -- just a customer looking to check-out.

The Groceria is located in downtown Providence, across the street from Johnson & Wales' main green (where the Outlet department store used to be). The space, which housed the Food Basket grocery store, is very open and airy with an industrial feel. Yet the cafe, tucked into one corner, is cozy and intimate for any meal of the day, even amid cases of fresh produce, cool drinks, and gourmet delicacies.

Naturally, my friend and I both started with a drink. She went with her favorite Amaretto and orange juice ($4.75), and was pleasantly surprised to discover freshly squeezed pulpy OJ in the mix. I happily sipped a glass of CK Mondavi chardonnay ($4.25) on the advice of our server, who promised it would be worth the extra quarter. He was right.

To go with our beverages, we shared a California roll appetizer ($6.75). You won't find it on the menu, though. It was made especially for us, as a substitute for the nori roll that the kitchen didn't have the shrimp to make. But even though it was our second choice, the five deliciously light rolls of crabmeat, avocado, rice, and cucumber, wrapped in roasted seaweed and drizzled in a ginger sauce, didn't make us one bit wistful for our original pick.

For her meal, my friend selected the tonno and artichoke sandwich ($5.50). The Italian-style tuna, served with artichokes and flavorful black olive pesto on a chewy baguette, was amazingly fresh and hearty enough to yield leftovers for lunch the next day. And my friend couldn't stop raving about the accompaniments: a side of artichoke hearts in a light oil, and a scrumptious oven-roasted red bliss potato salad. In fact, I think a single tear drifted down her cheek when she discovered that someone didn't wrap the two bitefuls of potato salad with her leftovers.

There was no need for a doggie bag with my choice of marinated chicken breast ($7.95). The flavorful grilled boneless breast was marinated in a fruity citrus marinade and served with a festival of my favorite vegetables: grilled slices of eggplant; strips of zucchini and summer squash; and lightly seasoned artichoke hearts. I don't think it could have been any healthier.

Even my fiance Andre got in on the act, through the magic of take-out. Knowing full well that my friend wouldn't forfeit her half sandwich, we brought him his own entree: roasted pork loin ($8.95). Lucky for him, our friend didn't check the bag before we got home, otherwise Andre would have been out his accompanying red bliss potatoes and artichoke hearts. Instead, he got to experience the delicious sides with his thinly cut, extremely juicy slices of apple-topped pork.

With only two desserts to choose from, and both my friend and I wanting the same kind, Andre was once again thrust into the role of freelance taster with a piece of French apple almond torte ($3.75). The cakey shortbread crust might have been enough to satisfy his sweet tooth, but he separated the layer of apple slices and subtly flavored custard, topped with sliced almonds, to eat it like a cookie.

My friend and I each had our own slice of chocolate zucchini cake ($3.50). The triple layer cake was extremely moist and, even with a French silk chocolate frosting, wasn't overpowering. In fact, we were in complete agreement that this treat should fulfill one of our vegetable requirements, and that we should eat several pieces a week for better health. Luckily, when we head back to the Groceria, we'll be able to stock up on plenty of fresh ingredients to organize our own menus around the cake.