Empire

High praise for a great new downtown venture

by Johnette Rodriguez

Empire Street, Providence, 621-9711
Open for lunch Mon-Sat, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Dinner, Mon-Thurs, 5-11 p.m., Fri. and Sat. until midnight
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

Seldom has the opening of a Providence restaurant been as eagerly awaited as that of Empire, the new venture across from Trinity Rep. Long-time theatergoers are curious about the reformation of a space formerly occupied by an adult entertainment store. Food fans have memorized Empire's pedigree: owners and Johnson & Wales grads Loren Falsone and Eric Moshier formerly worked at Al Forno, and Al Forno's owner-chefs, Johanne Killeen and George Germon, have invested in the enterprise.

Both Trinity subscribers and Rhode Island gourmands will be pleased. The decor is soothing but chic, with imperial touches in the tall and elegant doorway, the marble-topped bar and tables, the gold tiles and classical arches behind the bar. Soft gray and deep teal woodwork sets off exposed brick walls. Apple-green and lilac upholster the chair seats and banquettes.

At a recent lunchtime, Empire was packed to its capacity of 61. The room was humming with animated conversations, as diners pored over the menu items: three pastas, three pizzas, eight sandwiches, plus appetizers, salads and desserts. The pizzas ($12) are the thin-crust incarnation: the margherita with plum tomatoes and fresh basil, a bianco with sweet sausages and three cheeses, and a surprising breakfast-like circle topped with prosciutto, potatoes and a sunny-side-up egg.

The pastas ($9) are served piping hot in crocks, baked with their sauces: bolognese, cheese or parsley-pesto-and-prosciutto. The fonduta for two ($9) also arrives in a crock, accompanied by buttered crostini (made from Empire's delicious house-made bread).

We ended up choosing somewhat lighter fare: sauteed asparagus ($5) to begin our meal (a spring treat of close to a pound of bright green spears); plus a shrimp and fennel salad for me ($12) and a portobello and celery root piadina (wrapped sandwich) for my husband Bill ($8).

My four jumbo shrimp had been pan-grilled ("griddled," in the menu) to perfection and they lay, as at four compass points, to the radicchio and Bibb sphere in the middle of the plate. The leaves of these salad greens formed a bowl for the shaved fresh fennel, which was nicely coated with a lemon vinaigrette.

Bill's sandwich was wrapped in a thick tortilla-like bread and it offered many taste sensations inside: grilled portobello mushroom slices, wafer-thin celeriac slices, creamy goat cheese and generous amounts of cilantro -- a special favorite of his. The sandwich was accompanied by a cucumber, carrot, zucchini and sweet red pepper salad and by a mound of Empire's signature double-fried Yukon gold potatoes. The cooking technique gave them a dark brown crust without drying them out inside, and the sprinkling of coarse salt made them even more addictive. Samples of Empire's own lemony mayonnaise and slightly sweet catsup came with this platter.

As at Al Forno, made-to-order desserts at Empire must be chosen at the same time as placing your dinner order to accommodate their baking time. The lunch menu does not make the same declaration, but it probably should, since both the carmelized apple tart ($6) and, more importantly, the coconut mascarpone souffle ($7) will require extra time in the kitchen. Never mind -- the wait was worth it. The coconut souffle was a melt-in-the-mouth cloud of coconut milk and egg whites. Bill, an avowed coconutphobe, couldn't put his spoon down after the first dreamy bite.

All of the items available at lunch, except the sandwiches, are also on Empire's evening menu, with several additional seafood appetizers, two more pastas and eight entrees ranging from filet mignon with fried egg (a Portuguese twist) to a vegetarian plate of roasted cabbage stuffed with veggies ($18-$25).

Empire's staff seemed earnest and friendly, though a little overwhelmed by the torrent of customers at lunch. Floor-to-ceiling windows facing Empire Street give diners a wide-angle view of this busy corner, as well as putting Empire itself squarely on display to passersby. What they see are smiling people delving into beautifully-presented dishes, and wine glasses lifted in praise of another great Providence restaurant.