The following listings have been distilled from recent
full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the
month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not
included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some
menus change seasonally.
GINGER'S CAFé AND BAKERY,
333 Main Street, Wakefield (789-0914). The renaissance of the Main Street
Bakery begins with the cheery and bright atmosphere and continues on to the
littlest of details. The butter, for example, is now whipped: perfect for
spreading on Ginger's tasty scones. And it doesn't stop there.
The breakfasts are superb. The slices of French toast ($5.25/$3.50) are thick,
and can be ordered with berries ($6/$4). The oven-baked banana-walnut pancakes
($5.25/$3.25) are a fave, and you can fill their fluffy omelets with lots of
optional items; try adding goat cheese ($1.25) to the tomato and
mushroom-filled pesto omelet.
Vegetarians and meatlovers alike can enjoy breakfast frittattas -- even at
lunch ($5.50). Other lunch options include grilled portobello pizza ($8.95),
the half sandwich with soup ($5.25), and delicious sandwiches ranging from
chicken pesto salad ($5) to grilled portobello with spinach and Boursin. And
Ginger's three lunch pastas ($8.95/ $6.50) are plentiful even in their lite
portions.
Ginger's is also a bakery. Among the variety of desserts are brownies, with or
without cream cheese baked in, lemon tortes or fruit tarts, and a tirimisu
($4), hailed as the house specialty, that still uses the traditional
lady-fingers that many places have dropped. (4/99)
GRACIE'S BAR AND GRILLE, 409 Atwells Avenue, Providence (272-7811). Johnson
& Wales grad Ellen Gracyalny always loved the Federal Hill space taken up
by the Eclectic Grille. So when that joint moved further East on Atwells,
Gracie's was born -- luckily for us, because the whimsical confidence and
imagination make the tiny restaurant a fine addition to the Hill.
The service at Gracie's was a bit slow -- we grew tired by the end of the
night -- but the food was consistently interesting. Each starter we had was
innovative -- Gruyère on the five-onion soup ($4.95), chive goat cheese
on the baby green salad ($5.95), and Cajun-spiced breadcrumbs on the Cajun
calamari ($7.95), all served with fresh-baked whole-grain, mustard-seed,
sour-dough bread. Yum.
The entrées were memorable. My polenta and pesto lasagna ($10.95) was
star-shaped, reflecting the restaurants star-motif, and each bite delivered a
different taste, skipping from pesto and ricotto, to grilled portobello and
polenta, to broccoli rabe greens with thick garlic broth. The red snapper
Archestratus ($16.95) was wrapped in grape-leaves, sautéed with olives,
grapes, and artichokes, and given a quick bake with a dash of white wine and
artichoke paste. It was unbelievably good. The smoked pork tenderloin ($16.95)
had a dried cherry, pecan and brandy sauce gliding over fine cherrywood-smoked
meat. And, finally, the desserts of peanut butter and jelly cheesecake,
crème brulée, and mousse ($5.95 a pop) were delightful. (4/99)
L'IMAJ, 566 South Main Street, Providence (751-3000). With the mocha-colored
walls of its small dining area decorated by rich paintings and hand-blown glass
plates, L'imaj is a world of subtle sophistication and great for intimate
conversations.
From the extensive list of tapas, the "Spring Roll Americaine" ($7.95) proved
itself crispy on the outside and filled with delicious marinated chicken, bok
choy, bean sprouts, and bell peppers inside. We followed this with a spinach
salad ($7.95) whose simple yet non-standard ingredients, such as walnuts, pine
nuts, and goat cheese, in a honey Dijon sauce left us wanting more.
For the main course, we tried the shrimp and scallop special ($22.95) and the
filet mignon ($21.95). The jumbo shrimp and scallops were served with handmade
gnocci, garlic, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, and attractively draped with
scallions for color. There was even enough seafood to match every bite of
pasta. The filet proved a creative interpretation of the standard favorite.
Served atop a bed of polenta and covered in a wild mushroom duxelle and madeira
oyster sauce that was a bit overpowering, this entree was garnished with
poached oyster and thin onion rings.
Dessert found us gazing at the "L'imaj tower" ($8.95), made of lady fingers
surrounded by white chocolate mouse, topped with berries and tangerine slices
all tied together with a yellow bow. Equally pleasing was the "Mudslide
Cheesecake" ($7.95) with its Oreo cookie crust, a hint of coffee flavoring, and
topped with a coffee bean.
While L'imaj is pricey, it is worth the money. You can also visit their lounge
and soak in the atmosphere without breaking the bank account. (4/99)