[Sidebar] April 22 - 29, 1999
[Food Reviews]
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The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

GINGER'S CAFé AND BAKERY, 333 Main Street, Wakefield (789-0914). The renaissance of the Main Street Bakery begins with the cheery and bright atmosphere and continues on to the littlest of details. The butter, for example, is now whipped: perfect for spreading on Ginger's tasty scones. And it doesn't stop there.

The breakfasts are superb. The slices of French toast ($5.25/$3.50) are thick, and can be ordered with berries ($6/$4). The oven-baked banana-walnut pancakes ($5.25/$3.25) are a fave, and you can fill their fluffy omelets with lots of optional items; try adding goat cheese ($1.25) to the tomato and mushroom-filled pesto omelet.

Vegetarians and meatlovers alike can enjoy breakfast frittattas -- even at lunch ($5.50). Other lunch options include grilled portobello pizza ($8.95), the half sandwich with soup ($5.25), and delicious sandwiches ranging from chicken pesto salad ($5) to grilled portobello with spinach and Boursin. And Ginger's three lunch pastas ($8.95/ $6.50) are plentiful even in their lite portions.

Ginger's is also a bakery. Among the variety of desserts are brownies, with or without cream cheese baked in, lemon tortes or fruit tarts, and a tirimisu ($4), hailed as the house specialty, that still uses the traditional lady-fingers that many places have dropped. (4/99)

GRACIE'S BAR AND GRILLE, 409 Atwells Avenue, Providence (272-7811). Johnson & Wales grad Ellen Gracyalny always loved the Federal Hill space taken up by the Eclectic Grille. So when that joint moved further East on Atwells, Gracie's was born -- luckily for us, because the whimsical confidence and imagination make the tiny restaurant a fine addition to the Hill.

The service at Gracie's was a bit slow -- we grew tired by the end of the night -- but the food was consistently interesting. Each starter we had was innovative -- Gruyère on the five-onion soup ($4.95), chive goat cheese on the baby green salad ($5.95), and Cajun-spiced breadcrumbs on the Cajun calamari ($7.95), all served with fresh-baked whole-grain, mustard-seed, sour-dough bread. Yum.

The entrées were memorable. My polenta and pesto lasagna ($10.95) was star-shaped, reflecting the restaurants star-motif, and each bite delivered a different taste, skipping from pesto and ricotto, to grilled portobello and polenta, to broccoli rabe greens with thick garlic broth. The red snapper Archestratus ($16.95) was wrapped in grape-leaves, sautéed with olives, grapes, and artichokes, and given a quick bake with a dash of white wine and artichoke paste. It was unbelievably good. The smoked pork tenderloin ($16.95) had a dried cherry, pecan and brandy sauce gliding over fine cherrywood-smoked meat. And, finally, the desserts of peanut butter and jelly cheesecake, crème brulée, and mousse ($5.95 a pop) were delightful. (4/99)

L'IMAJ, 566 South Main Street, Providence (751-3000). With the mocha-colored walls of its small dining area decorated by rich paintings and hand-blown glass plates, L'imaj is a world of subtle sophistication and great for intimate conversations.

From the extensive list of tapas, the "Spring Roll Americaine" ($7.95) proved itself crispy on the outside and filled with delicious marinated chicken, bok choy, bean sprouts, and bell peppers inside. We followed this with a spinach salad ($7.95) whose simple yet non-standard ingredients, such as walnuts, pine nuts, and goat cheese, in a honey Dijon sauce left us wanting more.

For the main course, we tried the shrimp and scallop special ($22.95) and the filet mignon ($21.95). The jumbo shrimp and scallops were served with handmade gnocci, garlic, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, and attractively draped with scallions for color. There was even enough seafood to match every bite of pasta. The filet proved a creative interpretation of the standard favorite. Served atop a bed of polenta and covered in a wild mushroom duxelle and madeira oyster sauce that was a bit overpowering, this entree was garnished with poached oyster and thin onion rings.

Dessert found us gazing at the "L'imaj tower" ($8.95), made of lady fingers surrounded by white chocolate mouse, topped with berries and tangerine slices all tied together with a yellow bow. Equally pleasing was the "Mudslide Cheesecake" ($7.95) with its Oreo cookie crust, a hint of coffee flavoring, and topped with a coffee bean.

While L'imaj is pricey, it is worth the money. You can also visit their lounge and soak in the atmosphere without breaking the bank account. (4/99)

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