The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

THE HOTPOINT, 31 State St., Bristol (254-7474). This newest addition to the East Bay restaurant scene specializes in making simple, common dishes in a superb and original way. The lobster bisque ($7.12), for example, was savory, with just enough sherry to pique the tastebuds. Or the fried calamari ($7.25), which bagged on the traditional thick batter, lemon wedge and hot pepper rings in favor of a light crumb coating, a smoky tomato dipping sauce, and slices of mild poblano peppers tossed with fresh basil. Delish. So too the cod. We know -- cod -- but HotPoint does it to a restrained perfection ($14.95), with a black-and-white bean sauce, spiced up a touch, pooled underneath. The side of purple potatoes was a bit mealy, but that was the only not-right thing of the entire night. The boneless half-chicken ($15.95) in a balsamic demi-glaze had been marinated in olive oil and herbs and couldn't have been more succulent. To top it off, we had the crème brulée ($6). Often a risk, HotPoint's was delicate and tasted of raspberry. When the worst thing you can say about a dining experience is that the pleasant waiter was overly solicitous, you're doing quite well. (2/99)

RISTORANTE ROMANZA, 312 Wickenden St., Providence (421-5544). Nestled inside an 18th-century house on Wickenden Street, Ristorante Romanza has the antiquated air of colonial America. The chow, however, is top-notch Italian that often breaks from the traditional with a splash of interesting and innovative ingredients. We started with the Bruschetta del Nord ($4.75), the traditional Italian appetizer creatively topped with perfectly seasoned mashed eggplant, chunks of fresh sweet tomatoes, and shredded pecorino cheese. Mmm-mmm. Fettucine Testa Mora ($12.95) followed, with its perfectly al-dente noodles and melt-in-your mouth chicken tenders in a delectable light cream sauce of marsala wine, garlic and parmigiano cheese. Our other entrée was a presidential requisite, Raviola Monica ($13.95): the plate was covered with lusciously creamy pillows of broccoli parmesan ravioli mixed with rapini, whose sharp flavor contrasted nicely with the rich ravioli filling. The sauce wasn't standard, either -- the chicken stock, garlic, and fresh herbs didn't last very long, and leftovers were nowhere to be found. And Romanza has good finishers, too. The crunchy cannolis ($5.25) were filled with mascarpone cheese mixed with tangy dried strawberries and apricots for a burst of unexpected flavor. The only disappointment here was the mascarpone cheesecake ($5.25). Just too thick and heavy. It should have taken lessons from the tiramisu ($5.25), whose ladyfingers and mascarpone cheese were incredibly light and airy, with a mild coffee flavor. (2/99)

RIVIERA INN, 580 North Broadway, East Providence (431-4031). Stepping into the Riviera Inn is like stepping into another time period. Furnishings like the folding vinyl room dividers, the burgundy and gray vertical window blinds, and the light gold chairs with wide, padded seats and swooping, padded backs date back to the late '50s, and the restaurant has existed in some form for six decades. The food, too, is old-school Portuguese. One of the most popular dishes is pork and littlenecks (Carne a Alentejana), and on the night we visited, we tried Chicken Alentejana ($10.95), an offshoot in which chicken chunks were marinated in wine and herbs, and sautéed slightly before onions, peppers, tomatoes and garlic were thrown in to make a rich, flavorful sauce. Cooked potato chunks and littlenecks were the last ingredient to go in, making the stew as appealing to look at as to ingest. The Portuguese steak ($7.95) was the way it is supposed to be -- topped with a fried egg and hearty brown sauce, cooked to order, and tasty. In addition, two crisscrossed strips of roasted red pepper accented the egg nicely. The Cod Fish Gomes Sa ($9.95) was also old-school and tasty, with rinsed Bacalao, potatoes, onions and olive oil baked in the oven. The desert selection wasn't tops, however -- house-made deserts are only made on weekends, and while the chocolate cake ($3.95) was good, the apricot-almond torte ($3.95) carried a refrigerator taste. (2/99)