The HotPoint

Simple -- and simply superb

by Bill Rodriguez

31 State St., Bristol, 254-7474
Open Tues-Thurs, 5-9 p.m., Wed-Sat, 11:45 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Fri & Sat, 5-10 p.m., Sun, 11:45 a.m.-3 p.m., and 5-8:30 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

Doing a few things very well rather than a lot merely adequately, now there's a thought. In fact, that's not an infrequent notion among veteran cooks who have served at many a restaurant kitchen station, straining at the garde-manger leash, when they finally get to open their own place. And that's just what owner-chef Jim Reardon has come up with in his simple and simply superb new addition to East Bay restaurants, HotPoint.

Most recently, Reardon was sous chef at the Clarke Cooke House, and before that, he was at Café Nuovo and head chef at Raphael Bar-Risto. His new digs are a bit more unassuming, as the décor is modest and subdued, with just enough still lifes to stimulate an appetite. Bentwood chairs, butcher paper on the tablecloths, bistro-style. Fresh mums in a bud vase and fresh French bread in a basket -- with olive oil already on the table, a health reminder to forego the rosette of butter not iced to stone. Little things can make an impression when they add up like that.

For an appetizer, the saffron-accented signature clam chowder ($3.50/$4.50) sounded like a way to get a fair first impression, but lobster bisque ($7.12) was a special on the evening we visited. And the choice was rewarded by a savory and creamy blend that enhanced the seafood flavor and had just enough sherry to pique the tastebuds.

Piquancy was in store with their fried calamari ($7.25) as well. Rather than the customary lemon-wedge version, there was a smoky tomato dipping sauce on the side, and plenty of it. There were also slices of mild poblano peppers, the kind used in chile relleño, tossed with fresh basil rather than the usual hot pepper rings. And the fresh Point Judith squid itself was prepared in the same way that makes fried clams raise eyebrows -- with a light crumb coating. Delicious.

At the next table, we heard a couple mmm-ing over the lobster bisque and appreciating the potato pancake ($6.95), which was accompanied by an equally large and tasty Italian sweet sausage. The sounds of future steady customers continued throughout their meal.

In general, a bonus with such a promising beginning at an unfamiliar restaurant is that you feel you can trust an entrée that has disappointed in the past. Take cod. Because it is such a firm-fleshed fish, a kitchen can sometimes get away with overcooking it a tad. Well, here the "herb-seared codfish" ($14.95) was cooked to restrained perfection, and a black-and-white bean sauce, spiced up a touch, was pooled beneath.

For a side, what I thought were small halved beets were actually purple potatoes. They were too mealy for me (a problem with the variety), but my dining partner was enjoying hers. On her plate, they went with a boneless half-chicken ($15.95) in a balsamic demi-glaze, and a wild mushroom ragout. The chicken had been marinated with olive oil and herbs and couldn't have been more succulent.

There were just 11 main courses on the winter menu, plus such exotic specials as kangaroo burrito and broiled ostrich. But the HotPoint forté seems to be preparing common dishes with imagination and reliable care. Before we left, for instance, we heard the beef tenderloin and risotto touted at other tables.

Although we were in a hurry, we couldn't pass up dessert. Not at a place that had done so well by us so far. They are all made there, from chocolate cake to tiramisú, and I knew that the crème brulée ($6) would be fine. Some places think they're being generous when the caramelized-sugar top is as thick as a hockey puck. But ours was delicate and tasted of raspberry.

When the worse thing you can say about a dining experience is that the pleasant waiter was overly solicitous (when will they learn that catching your eye is so much more considerate than an incessant "Can I get you anything else?"?), you're doing quite well.