Ristorante Romanza

Love in the air and on the table

by Dawn Keable

312 Wickenden St., Providence, 421-5544
Open Tues-Sat, 5-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

So we probably weren't the typical couple you'd expect to see in this Italian restaurant of romance. Juliet, my college friend, and I had opted to leave the men at home for a rare girls' night out. But, armed with a 10-pound bridal magazine, we were sure to discuss at least elements of amore, even if only the benefits of fresh floral headpieces for a June wedding.

Ristorante Romanza is nestled inside an 18th-century house on Wickenden Street. With its hardwood floors, gilt-framed pictures and country-style table and chairs, the interior has a distinctive, old-world charm. And on the Tuesday night we visited, we were able to admire our surroundings, including an unlit fireplace, in seclusion. Only one couple intruded into our private dining room. Yup, they were lovers alright. Who else sits on the same side of the table?

In our cozy corner , a waitress poured us two glasses of wine from a bottle we brought with us. Romanza does not have a liquor license, but for a $2 cork fee, you can bring whatever spirit suits your pleasure -- and save some money in the process.

Indeed, as a result of our beverage economizing, we splurged for an appetizer, starting our meal with "Bruschetta del Nord" ($4.75). The two pieces of crispy Italian bread were topped with a layer of perfectly seasoned mashed eggplant, chunks of fresh sweet tomatoes, and shredded pecorino cheese. Even while chatting up a storm, we managed to wolf down the delicious treat in record time.

For a main course, Juliet decided on "Fettucine Testa Mora" ($12.95), and she certainly had no regrets. The fettucine, cooked to a perfect al-dente tenderness, was tossed with melt-in-your-mouth chicken tenders in a delectable light cream sauce of marsala wine, garlic and parmigiano cheese.

My meal, "Ravioli Monica" ($13.95), was equally appealing, even with Juliet's poor attempt at a bit of presidential humor. The plate was covered with lusciously creamy pillows of broccoli parmesan ravioli mixed with rapini, whose sharp flavor contrasted nicely with the rich ravioli filling. In a break from traditional sauce, the pasta was served in a stock of chicken, garlic and fresh herbs. And, like my friend, I wound up cleaning my plate, although I'm sure this was much to the dismay of our fiancés, who were hoping for leftovers.

Not to worry -- we remembered them at dessert time. Our original plan had been to simply leave the restaurant without loosening our belts, but then we decided that it wouldn't hurt to make some points with our beaus (especially so close to Valentine's Day).

Juliet chose the cannoli ($5.25) to share with her beloved. Served with two full-sized pastries, it was the perfect selection to split and still have an adult-sized portion all to herself. The crunchy fried shell was stuffed with a mixture of mascarpone cheese and tangy dried strawberries and apricots for a burst of unexpected flavor.

I went with a slice of mascarpone cheesecake ($5.25). With its graham-cracker crust and a dollop of whipped cream, it certainly looked delicious enough. Unfortunately, the cheesecake was overly thick and heavy, and not even the mixed-in crunchy pieces of almond biscotti could redeem it.

Of course, my fiancé, Andre, hit the jackpot. To stop his tears of disappointment because he had to work, I ordered him the tiramisu ($5.25). His dessert of ladyfingers and mascarpone cheese was incredibly light and airy with a mild coffee flavor. And for a unique twist, the generous square rested atop an apricot puree.

So don't worry about bringing romance with you to Ristorante Romanza, where love is in the air -- and on the table.