The following listings have been distilled from recent
full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the
month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not
included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some
menus change seasonally.
CANFIELD HOUSE, 5 Memorial Blvd.,
Newport (847-0416). A casino-turned-restaurant, the Canfield House is filled
with the trappings of those bygone millions. The walls, with their mahogany
wainscotting, reach at least 10 feet up before the rounded mahogany ceiling
carries that height even higher. And the luxury continues with the menu, with
its escargot among the appetizers and its antelope steak as an occasional
special ($41.95!). We began with a baked portobello and a sundried tomato
polenta ($8.50). The mushroom had been marinated in a 50-year-old balsamic
vinegar and topped with a thin spread of goat cheese. Wonderfully appetizing!
As were our entrées, penne rigate with lobster, shrimp and other friends
($21.95) and veal paillard with fresh sage and thinly sliced proscuitto.
($16.95). The next time you're at the Canfield House, you also might want to
ask your waiter for a copy of the Canfield history -- it makes for great
reading material as you soak up the atmosphere. (1/99)
CHOPMIST CHARLIE'S, 6900 Post Rd., North Kingstown (885-0575). You're traveling
along the upper reaches of North Kingstown, hunting for cheap eats. Maybe
you're up for seafood. If it's Wednesday or Thursday, you can pull into
Chopmist Charlie's and take advantage of their $19.95 two-fer specials,
complete with a half-carafe of the house red or white. The regular prices are
as low as you'd expect, ranging from $6.50 sandwich plates to $16 filet mignon
dinners. But the $19.95 specials are the best bargain. Indeed, if you both
happen to order the 10-ounce prime rib, normally $10.95, the freebies would
amount to 15 bucks. We tried the three other $19.95 specials that evening --
the scrod with lobster sauce, the linguini with clam sauce, and the chicken
with Swiss cheese -- and only the latter disappointed, leaving us wanting more
than the single stuffed breast. The desserts, pecan pie ($3.50) and bread
pudding ($3), were a bit small, but, hey, with what you'd save on the prime
rib, you could order two desserts. (1/99)
INDIAN CLUB, 455 Main St., East Greenwich (884-7100). Finding the Indian Club
on this very American Main Street is like coming across a pearl in a quahog.
Set between small retail stores and donut shops, the restaurant really stands
out! And its uniqueness continues on the inside with dishes from both North and
South India. We started with an onion and a chicken pakora, both
deep-fried in chickpea batter and, unfortunately, both too greasy for our
taste. The paneer pankora, on the other hand, had only the thinnest of
batters, with a sliver of mint chutney tucked into it. Excellent. For a main
course, we tried the tandori mixed grill ($13.95), with succulent pieces of
orange-colored chicken, tender slices of lamb kabob, a tandori shrimp, and
ground lamb all baked on a skewer. And then came the final course -- mango and
saffron-pistachio ice cream ($2.25). There are so many sauces and dishes to try
at the Indian Club, we only sampled the menu on this last visit. The next time,
we'll be even more adventurous. (1/99)
OLERIO'S, 1099 Park Ave., Cranston (943-1980). Our dinner guests, David and
Ginny, are regulars at Olerio's, so it's usually hugs all around when they
arrive. It's a snug, narrow restaurant, with attention paid to food rather than
velour on the walls. We began our night with fried mozzarella sticks and the
Italian version of wings ($5.25), alla Taranto, with lemon butter and
fresh rosemary. Every main dish we tried was quite good as well, including the
scampi basilico ($14.95), served over basil fettucine, and the chicken
and the sole Franchese. The latter two were sautéed not a moment past
their prime, so both were moist and delicate, the egg batter appropriately
minimal. For dessert, we ordered the grapenut custard ($2.25), which was as
flavorful as at a good New England chophouse, while two items billed as "pie"
were crustless varieties: chocolate cream and cappuccino (both $2.95). Olerio's
is an unassuming place that's careful in the kitchen and rewarding on the
plate. (1/99)