The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

DON JOSE RESTAURANT, 311 Plainfield St., Providence (943-5377). The advantage to a small, unassuming place like Don José is that it can't get away with anything. While a fancy downtown restaurant might be able to bluff and ratchet up the pork liver content of the foie gras, a tiny, out-of-the-way Mexican restaurant has to attract families and local regulars to survive. It serves tough tripe in its menudo at its peril. Not to worry at Don José. Here, there are no drinks with parasols in them, just wine and your choice of Mexican beers. The corn chips are homemade rather than out of a bag -- hard but flavorful -- while the accompanying red salsa is quite hot. The first time we visited, I tried the marker-board special, lengua guizada ($6.95). The tongue -- melt-in-your-mouth tender, pardon the phrase -- was stewed with green peppers and onions and served over yellow rice, with refried beans and a salad's worth of lettuce and tomatoes filling out the plate. Johnnie had the camarones a la tequilla, a half-dozen fat shrimp marinated in an orange tequilla sauce sweetened with coconut milk. Superb. Extra tortillas, kept hot in a container, were brought unasked. Overall, the little touches the owners maintain (hot milk with the coffee, liberal use of cilantro) make for a place you can trust for the big things. (12/98)

TUSCAN TAVERN, 632 Metacom Ave., Warren (247-9200). Weekdays until 6 p.m., the restaurant offers an extensive "Piccolo Menu" featuring smaller portions of their regular items at a reduced price. On a recent visit, we started with the "Caserta" ($6.95). Fresh from the wood-burning oven, the bruschetta had the same type of crust as Italian bread, but this treat was brushed with olive oil, then topped with fresh sautéed spinach, melted mozzarella, and Genoa pepperoni for a mildly spicy kick. For a main course, we tried the "Patria Pork Chop" ($8.95). Marinated in Chianti and mixed herbs, the juicy chop was amazingly thick and full of robust grilled flavor. The meat was served with a hearty helping of buttery red bliss potatoes, which were mashed with their skins on and garnished with chopped scallion. For a second entrée, we went with the Rigatoni Sorrentino, which had been cooked to al dente perfection and tossed in a light sweet marinara sauce with chunks of sautéed eggplant, tomato, mozzarella and basil. Capping off the night was a three-inch-high square of tiramisu ($4.50) on top of chocolate fudge sauce. Kudos to the pastry chef, as it was incredibly delicious. The Tuscan Tavern certainly offers its own definition of a happy meal. (12/98)

TYLER POINT GRILLE, 32 Barton Ave., Barrington (247-0017). One thing about East Bayers: they know a good thing when find it. Tyler Point Grille has been reopened under new management for just a few months now, but on a recent Friday night, it was packed by 6:30. Fortunately, we'd hurried in out of the rain an hour earlier and had been easily seated in the low-ceilinged dining room next to the high, open-beamed one. In both, you can find comfort in Tyler Point's warm wood and polished brass decor, set off by hanging plants and picket-fence-like partitions. Our attentive waiter promptly brought us two bowls of piping creamy roasted-garlic soup ($3.75), followed by baked clams ($6.95). The soup was dreamy. The half-dozen clams, flavorful littlenecks, were startling with oregano and salty with chopped proscuitto. We gravitated toward the pastas for our main course, including a ravioli dish and that evening's risotto special (both $13.95). The latter was expertly cooked, with fresh tomatoes and a pesto sauce, and was mixed with a generous portion of pan-seared scallops. Delicious, through and through. Meanwhile, artichoke hearts hid their plump halves among the ravioli, stuffed with roasted eggplant and framed in a light wine/lemon sauce. For dessert, we chose an apple-pumpkin upside cake ($4.95) made especially for Tyler Point, as were a half-dozen tortes and cheesecakes that night. The cake was moist and spiced like pumpkin pie, while the apple slices were arrayed on top like pineapple slices, with that same buttery brown-sugar taste. There has always been a feeling of casual elegance at Tyler Point Grille, and now the food and service keep pace with that mood.(12/98)