Atomic Grill

Combining the exotic with the tried-and-true

by Bill Rodriguez

99 Chestnut St., Providence, 621-8888
Open Mon-Fri, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Sun-Thurs, 5-10 p.m.
Fri & Sat, 5-11 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

The etched-glass partition at Atomic Grill is the perfect symbol for Providence's contemporary cuisine, which has been gaining a glowing reputation across the nation. A panorama of the city's skyline stretches across the panels in realistic regimentation. Above them, like stationary fireworks, are comets and stars and ringed planets. In other words, start with what's comfortable and familiar on a menu, then let the imagination soar.

That approach may not have been invented here in Providence, but local restaurants certainly have California's culinary hang-10 moves down cold. And Atomic Grill itself ain't so shabby when it comes to combining the exotic with the tried-and-true. Cream of mushroom soup, that cultural icon in a red-and-white Campbell's can? Why not add gorgonzola to whack taste buds upside the head, and throw in roasted red peppers for good measure? Pork chops? Hmm . . . why not do a Mexican motif, including a black-bean gravy?

I have to confess that I avoided Atomic Grill for a long time after it opened, in mourning as I was for Leo's, the landmark hangout bar/restaurant there for many years. But while John Rector's mellow place, with the marvelous Dan Gosch caricatures, may have harbored the creative soul of Providence in the '80s, life goes on. We're near the millennium. We're one world. Menus are ethnically eclectic, reflecting an eagerness to reach around the world with both hands to sample and incorporate cuisines.

Today, Atomic's new décor is as Bif! Pow! as a comic book, the '50s-futuristic mood presided over by large hanging lamps of wire and textured free-form parchment. The number of appetizers, salads and other "starters" approach 20, inviting the opportunity to assemble a meal from a few small orders.

On our recent visit, I sampled their chili ($2.75/$3.50) and loved its (balsalmic?) tang, mellow heat and the odd offering of carrot chunks in lieu of beans with the copious ground beef. My companion and I also shared the tempura mushroom sampler ($5.95), batter-fried portobello pieces, plus shiitake and crimini with a tamari dipping sauce spiked with sake. Delicious.

All in all, Oriental tastes are frequent opportunities at Atomic Grill. A signature dish is the tuna steak, not marinated but given a thorough "Far East" treatment, from the bok choy salad to the fiery wasabi. The first pasta on the regular menu is a stir-fried chicken lo mein ($12.50) over crispy noodles, while some other interesting touches pop up in the pasta descriptions -- a champagne reduction sauce to complement the seafood risotto ($15.50), a roasted garlic cream sauce for a caramelized-sweet background to the lobster ravioli ($15.50).

For her entrée, my partner picked a special of the day, grilled Atlantic salmon ($14.50) and wasn't disappointed. Fresh and moist, the fish was wrapped in grilled zucchini and placed over slow-roasted potatoes. A slab of focaccia was underneath, and a spinach aioli had been drizzled over it all.

I went for a variation from the regular menu which our waitress had suggested. Initially, I had planned to order the "New Millonzi" -- roasted turkey breast served over pasta with a green goddess pesto sauce. It sounded good, especially with the accompanying proscuitto and red bell peppers. But when the waitress said that sous chef Kevin Millonzi's original shrimp version won a Pasta Challenge, I bit.

And not a bad choice, either. The dish was busy with flavorful medium shrimp, and the pink sauce had plenty of puréed and whole oven-dried tomatoes and zucchini. Too bad the ziti itself was overcooked.

When it came time for dessert, there was no question. Our eyes went right past the grand marnier tart and the flourless chocolate torte to make sure that the Key lime pie ($5.50) was there. It was. A fellow foodie had said it was "to die for." Nicely balanced between sweet and tart, the wedge came out wearing a Fantasy Fest headdress of spun sugar. I don't know about to die for, but I'd sure risk having my hand slapped for reaching across the table.