The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

FRED'S OLD PLACE, 677 Thames St., Newport, 847-7949. Fred's is an out-of-the-way place in Newport that offers some great deals. From the many seafood starters, we selected fried calamari topped with tomatoes ($6.95). The squid were small and tender, served with a cocktail sauce. For entrées, we opted for sea bass Provencale and chicken Marsala. We got fresh-baked rolls, salad, a vegetable and a choice of a baked potato, wild rice or pasta with our meals. My companion's chicken Marsala was very tender in its slightly sweet wine sauce; the mushrooms on top still firm and tasty. My sea bass steak had been embellished with fresh tomato chunks, diced red onion and a bit of bread crumbs and cooked just until its juices began to flow. For dessert, we chose apple crisp with vanilla ice cream. Granny Smith apples had gone into the making of this little creation, along with plenty of nutmeg and lemon juice. It was a great reminder of fall's official return. (10/98)

THE GATEHOUSE, 4 Richmond Square, Providence, 521-9229. There's something magical about light reflected on water. Take the city lights on the Seekonk, as seen from the windows of the Gatehouse. The restaurant's style is a whimsical blend of nouveau chic with traditional New England. We started our meal by splitting two asparagus and arugula salads ($7.95 each). The tastes of dusky asparagus and smoky arugula were nicely sparked by a balsamic vinaigrette. For a main course, I had the grilled boneless chicken breast ($21.95). It was tender and tasty, although all but outshone by the array of vegetables surrounding it. We couldn't resist an almond-chocolate torte ($8) and a chocolate-rum mousse roll ($8) for dessert. Both were decadent but not deadly sweet. Our evening at the Gatehouse was made special by the elegant but low-key atmosphere, the careful preparation of our meals, the attentiveness of the staff and the golden glow of lights along the river. (10/98)

INN AT CASTLE HILL, Ocean Drive, Newport, 849-3800. Brunch at the Inn at Castle Hill makes for an inviting end to a scenic jaunt down Ocean Drive. For appetizers, we chose the smoked salmon plate ($12), a generous supply of sliced lox accompanied by a generous array of the traditional garnishes: sour cream, red onions, chives and chopped hard-boiled egg. The majority of the entrées here are variations on eggs Benedict. I had the turkey Benedict ($10), whose sauce was perfectly respectable and restrained. For side dishes, the Castle Hill kitchen served us both rather dainty portions of potatoes and vegetables. Yankee restraint, I suppose, but this meant we had room for dessert. We chose the "Phyllo Lemon-Ginger Snap," a tasty Greek dessert sandwich of lemon custard between crisp phyllo triangles drizzled with honey. All in all, a great dessert. Soon the turning leaves in Newport will be as colorful as the Brenton Point kites, which is just one more reason to aim toward Castle Hill. (10/98)

NONNA CHERUBINA, 2317 West Shore Road, Warwick, 738-5221. Nona Cherubina is Italian for "little angelic grandmother," which is quite the ambitious role model for the so-named Warwick restaurant. Yet this image captures its ambiance as well as its offerings, which can be thought of as northern Italian comfort food. Apparently gone is the day when the main reason for presenting that region's cuisine on this side of the Atlantic was to yank the national culinary flag from the hands of southern Italian restaurant proprietors. Nona Cherubina reveals what we suspected all along: at home and curtains drawn, northerners like a good tomato sauce as much as any Neapolitan. I chose the Pollo Garibaldi ($12.95) for my main course, while my companion had the Sogliola Ricca ($16.95). Although the split and pounded chicken on my plate was a little dry, the side dish of timballo, a lasagne-like portion of baked pasta, had a delicious red sauce on top and a dreamy béchamel sauce layered within. The Sogliola Ricca, a filet of sole lightly battered and sautéed in olive oil, was topped with what was described on the menu as a "creamy sauce of olives, garlic, and parsley." Who says Sicilians have more fun? (1/98)

RAPHAEL BAR-RISTO, 1 Cookson Place, Providence, 421-4646. The interior is beautifully understated in clean, classic lines and muted colors. My fiancé, Andre, and I started with an order of calamari ($8). Served over fresh watercress, the oregano-grilled squid were refreshingly natural -- not fried, breaded or greasy. For an entrée, Andre chose the mustard herb roast pork loin ($17.50). All of the dish's flavors complemented each other, but the sauce really brought it together. I chose the house-made ravioli ($16.50). Filled with a mixture of grilled eggplant purée seasoned with Italian herbs, the ravioli were deliciously sweet and light. For dessert, Andre selected the chocolate pistachio cannoli ($6.95). Beyond yummy. My dessert, tiramisu ($6.95), was not as intricate, although not any less delectable. By all accounts, dinner here was a magical experience. (10/98)