Inn at Castle Hill

Autumn in Newport has never been so delicious

by Bill Rodriguez

Ocean Drive, Newport, 849-3800
Open Mon-Thurs, 12-3 p.m., 6-9 p.m., Fri & Sat, 12-3 p.m., 6-10 p.m.
Sun brunch, 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

Cruising down Ocean Drive in Newport on a crisp fall Sunday morning could make anyone grin like a tourist. The rocky, wave-crashing shoreline, the carnival of kites streaming in the steady wind at Brenton Point State Park like a flock of surreal aliens. And then there is brunch at the Inn at Castle Hill, which makes for an inviting end to this scenic jaunt.

The restaurant doesn't take reservations, which can be good as well as inconvenient. The good part is that you won't need to break off from being transfixed by the surf crashing against the rock ledge before you. On the other hand, since you won't be the only ones who will have worked up an appetite, it's best to call ahead to see how long the wait is. When we recently visited shortly after noon, it was a half-hour. The week before, when we arrived at 2:30 on an equally balmy day, it was a prohibitive hour and a half, with most of the brunch items already gone.

You also might want to specify which room you would like to be seated in, if you have a preference. Those who especially enjoy light flooding the table would appreciate the large main dining room. It's enclosed by a semi-circle of glass that looks out onto Rhode Island Sound. There also are two wood-walled dining rooms, although the one without a view wasn't open when we were there.

Brunch is served Sundays only, 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Appetizers include chowder, a couple of salads and shrimp cocktail. We chose the smoked salmon plate ($12), a generous array of sliced lox accompanied by the traditional garnishes: spoonfuls of sour cream, red onions, chives and chopped hard-boiled egg. The salmon was quite fresh, and the water biscuits served with it were replenished upon request, as presumably the other items would be.

The majority of the entrées here are variations on eggs Benedict, if you include the poached eggs served sans English muffin with a kitchen-made hash. The prices are moderate for brunch ($10-$15), so a Sunday rather than an evening visit gets you not only a pleasant view but also a relative bargain. (Dinner entrées range from $16-$45.) There is something billed as "Spicy Green Eggs & Ham" ($10), but it's not something for the kids in your entourage, as the green is a chili sauce. Two supplementary items, in small print, are designated for children: chicken salad ($7) and waffles with fresh fruit ($5).

I had the turkey Benedict ($10), trusting the eggs to be poached right since it was their specialty. The eggs were fine, atop a relish of sweet onions and tomato, and the house-smoked turkey was thick, moist and flavorful. The sauce was perfectly respectable and restrained, but understand that this description is filtered through my preference for a more lemony zip.

Resisting the Rhode Island tradition of huge portions and luggage handles on the doggie bags, the Castle Hill kitchen served us both rather dainty portions of the side potatoes and vegetables. Yankee restraint, I suppose, in the face of all the "Manga, manga!" echoing from every other corner of the state. As a result, you'll probably have room for dessert.

All $6, they are made on the premises and include such treats as warm apple cake and banana-walnut tart. We chose the "Phyllo Lemon-Ginger Snap," a tasty Greek dessert sandwich of lemon custard between crisp phyllo triangles drizzled with honey. All in all, a great dessert, although the ginger was undetectable, if there at all.

Soon the turning leaves in Newport will be as colorful as the Brenton Point kites, which is just one more reason (as if you really needed one) to aim toward Castle Hill.