The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

AL FORNO'S PROVINCIA, 577 South Main St., Providence (273-9760). After years of wooing diners to the upstairs dining room with its Tuscan tone in decor as well as food, Al Forno's owners Johanne Killeen and George Germon have gone back to a French Provincial theme in the downstairs dining room, called Provincia. Provincia's offerings are playful variations of Al Forno's regular menu, including old standards given a French tweak, such as grilled pizza with Roquefort or chevre; clams with French thyme; lasagne with roasted celeriac, wild mushrooms, fennel, and mashed potatoes. Choices are not easy at a restaurant where every menu item seems equally delectable. My party eventually decided on a grilled pizza with chevre and fresh herbs ($13.95). It came Al Forno-style -- a large amorphous slab of very crispy grilled crust, painted with olive oil and dotted here and there with slivered scallions and dollops of cheese. From a half-dozen pastas, we opted for the angel hair noodles in fennel broth with roasted loup de mer and a peppery aioli ($17.95). And, from a baker's dozen main courses, we nabbed the oven-roasted salmon with asparagus and jasmine rice ($23.95). The loup de mer was nicely perched atop a mound of capellini, which we all enjoyed, and the medium-rare salmon was truly delicious. Al Forno takes no reservations, so arrive early (especially on Saturdays). You'll need the extra time to contemplate the menu options.(7/98)

BLUE MARLIN GRILLE, 1910 Post Rd., Warwick (737-7742). With its stylish black-and-tan color scheme, retro accents, and Sinatra background music, the Blue Marlin Grille in Warwick has a distinctive "supper club" feel. And subtle nautical touches here and there hint at the fine seafood options on the menu, such as the lobster ravioli ($7) appetizer. Tossed in a delicious basil cream sauce seasoned with a touch of garlic, the four pillows of pasta hide a culinary secret inside their cheesy center -- generous chunks of lobster. The shrimp scampi ($16), an evening pasta offering, continues the ocean celebration. With its vibrant, visual appeal, the dish is a treat to the eye as well as to the belly. Chunks of tomato, chopped scallion, red onion, jumbo shrimp, and mussels grace a generous helping of industrial-sized bow-tie pasta. Blended in a buttery garlic sauce, the fresh ingredients are an incredible mix of flavors and textures. For landlubbers, "Cliff's Spice-Rubbed Rotisserie Half-Chicken" ($12) offers meat so tender and juicy, it practically melts in your mouth. The desserts are mouth-watering good as well. "Auntie Lisa's Pumpkin Cheesecake" ($5) is a wonderful nutmeg-flavored confection atop a traditional graham-cracker crust, and the Key lime pie ($5) is perfectly tart and refreshing. (7/98)

GREEN TEA, 5600 Post Road, East Greenwich, 884-3340. Unlike with other cuisines, finding a good Chinese restaurant among the many in the state is like your appetite finally winning the culinary lottery. (At one thriving place in South County, little frankfurter rounds have been found in the fried rice.) That's why our recent visit to Green Tea was such a pleasant surprise. The four chefs in the kitchen are from New York, including one who has a half-century's worth of experience cooking, and the overall emphasis is on Szechwan and Hunan. On the night we went, our party of three was satisfied with all three of the main items we shared. The "Lemon Sesame Shrimp" ($10.95) had a marvelously tangy sauce that the accompanying broccoli soaked up nicely. The "Hot and Spicy Chicken" ($10.95) -- translate "hot" as "mild" on this menu -- contained green rather than the red bell peppers promised, but the kitchen more than compensated with plenty of black mushroom caps, rather than the "shreds" described on the menu. All but the house specials are available in half orders, with fried or steamed rice and an egg roll, for the price of a full order. (12/97)

THREE FISH, 37 Main St., Westerly (348-9700). At Three Fish in Westerly, the first thing you'll notice as the food passes by is how much of it is the culinary equivalent of big hair. Someone's mashed potatoes sport a tall, cross-hatched wafer. A filet mignon supports a tower of what look to be complex egg-glazed crackers. This is all in the sophisticated but entertaining tradition of food-as-modernist-sculpture, a hallmark of pockets of esthetic excess like Three Fish. Fortunately, the over-the-top presentation doesn't overshadow the subtleties of the restaurant's many fine dishes. There are eight regular menu items, plus daily specials, all of which are weighted toward seafood. Thoughtful decisions come across: horseradish in the mashed potatoes accompanying the grilled salmon; sage flavoring in the version with the stronger tasting grilled shrimp. The halibut ($18) is pan-seared to provide a crust and to seal in the juices, and the equally tasty pork tenderloin ($18) is served with a tart condiment of roasted apple and rhubarb purée. Dessert arrives with the same modern art look as the entrées. "The Bomb" ($8), for example, is an elaborate semi-sweet chocolate globe replete with upended brownie wedges, hazelnut ice cream, and a tiny candle. A fitting end to a fine meal. (7/98) (6/98)