The Blue Marlin Grille

Deep-sea delights with retro accents

by Dawn Keable

1910 Post Rd., Warwick, 737-7742
Open daily, 5-10 p.m.Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

At first glance, I was sure we'd need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to get into the parking lot of the Blue Marlin Grille. Not the restaurant's fault, of course -- I'm sure they didn't arrange for the road construction at their doorstep. Still, I was sure my fiancé, Andre, wouldn't have been too happy with me if he'd had to replace the shocks on his prized car after our entrance.

Luckily, we cruised in without incident -- the driveway looked much more bumpy when we'd spied it from the road, and Andre's shades didn't so much as bounce on his nose. After locking the car, that was the last we saw of the parking lot for quite some time, as the Blue Marlin has innovatively blocked the asphalt view from inside the restaurant with a narrow, fenced-in garden.

The restaurant itself is stylishly decorated, with a black-and-tan color scheme along with retro accents. From the small table lamps, potted palms, and Sinatra background music, it had a distinctive, "supper club" feel. And here and there, tasteful nautical pieces reminded us of the seafood theme on the menu.

As a result, we started with an appetizer of lobster ravioli ($7). Tossed in a delicious basil cream sauce seasoned with a touch of garlic, the four pillows of pasta hid a culinary secret inside their cheesy center -- generous chunks of lobster. (Nope, no lobster purée here.) And all the while we ate this masterpiece, Frankie was singing about flying to the moon. I'd say we were close to being there.

André, happily humming along, continued the ocean celebration with shrimp scampi ($16), the evening pasta offering. With its vibrant, visual appeal, the dish was a treat to the eye as well as to the belly. Chunks of tomato, chopped scallion, red onion, jumbo shrimp, and mussels graced a generous helping of industrial-sized bow-tie pasta. Blended in a buttery garlic sauce, the fresh ingredients were an incredible mix of flavors and textures.

I went the landlubber route with "Cliff's Spice-Rubbed Rotisserie Half-Chicken" ($12). One of the house specialities, the skin on the chicken was expertly seasoned for a sweet-and-spicy Cajun kick. On the inside, the meat was so tender, moist, and juicy, it practically melted in my mouth.

But that was only the start. The chicken was served with mashed, maple-whipped sweet potatoes. And they were heavenly. Silky smooth with just the right amount of sweetness, I could have eaten them for dessert or breakfast.

My theme meal continued with a side of seared collard greens, seasoned with vinegar and cooked to just the right degree of crunchiness. A piece of jalapeño corn bread rounded out the foursome, and although a little dry, it was certainly flavorful.

So bring on the desserts! Andre wasn't shy about voicing his preference, practically grabbing the order pad to write it down himself (along with his name and a quick sketch of his face to guarantee it would be placed in front of him). And "Auntie Lisa's Pumpkin Cheesecake" ($5) proved worth the commotion.

Topped with shaved walnuts, the light nutmeg-flavored confection sat atop a traditional graham-cracker crust. I could tell by the dreamy look in his eyes that Andre wanted to barge into the kitchen to find this Auntie Lisa -- and her recipe.

I finished with a slice of Key lime pie ($5). Garnished with slivers of lime rinds, chopped walnuts, and a sprinkling of graham-cracker crumbs, the creamy center, served over a graham-cracker crust, was perfectly tart and refreshingly fruity. No face puckering at this table.

Doggy bags in hand, we headed out to the car. For some reason, our waiter imagined us to be jet setters, and offered us plastic utensils so that we could eat the leftovers on the plane. Of course, if we had been from out of town, we definitely would have started our sightseeing at the Blue Marlin Grille.