The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

BACKSTAGE CAFÉ, 385 Westminster St., Providence (861-3354). After developing a good rep for lunchtime noshing opportunities over the last few years, the Backstage Deli is now also the Backstage Café, open for dinner Wednesdays through Saturdays. The "backstage" moniker has to do with their proximity to the theaters of Providence's fledgling Arts & Entertainment District. (Trinity, Perishable, and PPAC all have pizzas named after them.) The food and presentation are not as dramatic as the nearby stage activities, but they're quality. The New England clam chowder ($4) is some of the best around, and Backstage's French bread comes freshly sliced and served with a dish of olive oil dense with red-pepper flakes. The main courses are modestly priced, with the $18 NY strip steak the most expensive item. Chef Paul Schmidgall, who has studied in Germany as well as at Johnson & Wales, makes his own desserts -- a surprising, but nice touch for a small kitchen. His chocolate-raspberry torte ($4) with its ganache icing makes the perfect encore to a fine meal. (6/98)

BLUEBIRD CAFÉ, 554 Kingstown Rd. (Rt. 108), Wakefield (792-8940). After operating the first Bluebird Café in New Orleans for nine years, Bart Schumaker, the cook and owner, has brought his southern flavors to his home state. Breakfasts are served through lunch and feature everything from a simple fried-egg sandwich ($1.75) to spicy codfish hash with eggs ($5.95) and the Bluebird's specialty, huevos rancheros ($3.95). South of the Mason Dixon, this tangy dish of black beans layered with two corn tortillas and topped with two fried eggs, melted Co-Jack cheese, and fresh-tomato salsa helped garner a well-deserved "Best Breakfast in New Orleans Award." The café also offers outstanding lunch fare, and recently, Bart started serving dinner on Friday and Saturday evenings. In addition to the soup of the day, he offers only two dinner choices. But chances are they will be as interesting and flavorful as everything else at this unique restaurant. No doubt, the bluebird of gustatory delight will twitter over this place for a long while. (6/98)

FLO'S CLAM SHACK, 4 Wave Ave., Middletown (847-8141). After a few setbacks -- two previous locations were destroyed by hurricanes -- Flo's Clam Shack in Middletown is jumping. On an average night, the parking lot is full, the takeout line is backed out the door, and the upstairs raw bar is boisterous. What's all the excitement about? The food, of course. Flo's offers what are perhaps the most tender, sweet, and huge whole clams you've ever tasted. Just dusted with batter -- not glommed up with it, as so often happens -- the fried clams ($10.95 for a takeout platter with French fries and a tangy pasta salad) maintain the integrity of the clam itself. Similarly, the cod in the fish and chips ($6.95) is lightly battered, not greasy, and very tasty. Flo's also has great chowder, fried shrimp, scallops, calamari, and other seafood favorites. Grab dinner at Flo's, go for a walk on the beach afterwards, and I guarantee you'll be as happy as the proverbial mollusk. (6/98)

ZIA ELENA'S, 748 Hope St., Providence (453-5362). Although Zia Elena's is a tiny place that houses only nine tables, it is home to big taste. Like any authentic Italian restaurant, Zia Elena's starts its dinners with baskets of deliciously crusty garlic bread. It is tempting to eat piece after piece, but you'd do well to save room for the treats to come. The stuffed artichokes ($5.95), one of the appetizer specials, is one. Soaked in a vinegar-based marinade, the tender artichokes have a distinctive, zesty flavor. Simple, but tasty preparation characterizes the entrées as well. The baked scrod ($12.95), sprinkled with cracker crumbs, is amazingly non-greasy and subtly seasoned to let its natural flavors shine. Likewise, the side dish for the chicken parmesan -- al dente penne tossed in a light marinara sauce -- is the perfect compliment to a comfortable Italian classic. Zia Elena's exudes the genuine goodness of authentic Italian home cooking. Just make sure you have a reservation -- its small size and outstanding food could make tables scarce. (6/98)