The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

BOULANGERIE OBELIX,382 Spring St., Newport (846-3377). Certain streets in New England feel very European. Newport's Spring Street, with its 19th-century wood-frame buildings, swinging wooden signs, and window boxes dripping with flowers, is like this. And now a cheerful and versatile month-old bakery/cafe enhances this mood. Despite the French slant (baguettes, brioche, and boule prevail), focaccia and cibatta, a bread made with milk and olive oil, make appearances here as well. On the day we visited, the boule were prosciutto and fig, sun-dried tomato and garlic, and raisin-walnut. The brioche were white, Belgian chocolate, and rosemary/pignolia nut/orange rind. For lunch, we chose a chunk of a dark loaf of pain de campagne made from whole grain flours. It was moist and chewy, with a large crumb and a wonderful flavor. We also tried two delectable sandwiches -- a grilled chicken breast with arugula, sun-dried tomato, pesto, and lemon mayonnaise ($4.95) and a roasted eggplant with grilled onions and peppers, sliced fresh plum tomatoes, and spinach on focaccia spread with Vermont goat's cheese ($4.50). Finally, we sampled a frittata muffin ($3.75), a delightful construction of sliced red bliss potatoes, yellow and red peppers, and tomato all surrounded by a thick omelet batter. Outstanding! Stop by one of the two little tables inside the Obelix, where you can sip your latte and enjoy all of the above temptations. (5/98)

CIAO RISTORANTE,, 900 Victory Highway, North Smithfield (767-5614). Curious to see what all the hype among the locals was about, my fiancé and I recently stopped in for a visit at Ciao Ristorante. And we decided that it could be the beginning of the great cosmopolitanization of Slatersville Plaza. At $7.95, the restaurant's expansive, all-you-can-eat buffet seemed like the Sunday night favorite, with selections like salad, lasagna, pizza, chicken, and a dessert tray. There was also a vast pasta bar, complete with a personal chef. But we decided to go the conventional route and were seated in a cozy, private nook. Surrounded by peach-colored half-walls, we couldn't even see the other diners. From the vast list of traditional Italian offerings, we chose Melanzana Rollantini ($4.95) as our appetizer. The innovative rollups consisted of slices of eggplant wrapped with prosciutto and mozzarella in a sweet red sauce. We polished them off almost before our waitress was out of sight. The cheese extravaganza continued with the medium "Pizza Caesare" ($7.25). For 50 cents a topping, I fashioned mine with pesto, spinach, and mozzarella, which all went well with the warm, chewy crust. My fiancé's entree, Misto Frutti de Mare ($11.95), was a celebration of seafood -- scallops, clams, tender shrimp, and fresh littlenecks with an abundance of linguine tossed in white clam sauce. For dessert, I picked tiramisu ($3.50), which was fragrantly sprinkled with cocoa. The alternating layers of ladyfingers and mascarpone cheese were airy and delicately light. My fiancé fell victim to the "Chocolate Suicide Cake" ($3.50), a moist, double-layered confection with chopped walnuts on the side and a thick fudge and chocolate wedge on top. Hmmm. Maybe a cappuccino bar next to the penny candy display in the plaza's five-and-ten store is not so far off. (5/98)

THE RHUMBLINE, 62 Bridge St., Newport (849-6950). Isn't it great that some things are more than they seem at first glance? Take the Rhumbline in the historic Point District of Newport. Historic building (1870) from the outside, modest country decor on the inside. Lots of seafood on the menu. But chef Wayne Bothelo and owner Steve Guinta have turned this former ice cream shop into a top-notch, off-the-beaten-path restaurant. The warmth of polished wood, red homespun tablecloths, brass replicas of carriage lights, and turn-of-the-century photos of the Point create the mood. And the eclectic menu captivates the palate. We were thrilled by the veggie and seafood offerings, but our eyes positively pinwheeled at the meat possibilities. From the Wienerschnitzel to the Dijon-peppered sirloin, from the roast duck to the Thai pork and linguine, we were hard-pressed to choose but finally settled on the chipotle-glazed pork chop ($15.95), a 12-ounce chop stuffed with smoked Gouda, prosciutto, and black olives. We were also delighted by our dessert -- Nan's chocolate bread pudding topped with vanilla ice cream. The Rhumbline is named for the nautical rhumb line, which keeps a ship on a true course. Isn't it time you steered yourself in that direction? (5/98)