The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

BLUEFIN GRILLE, 1 Orms St., Providence (272-5852). There is a tranquil feeling to the Bluefin Grille. Subdued lighting, wood-paneled walls, tasteful decor with many art deco touches. The menu is wide-ranging. Appetizers tantalize: smoked salmon wrapping yellowfin tartar with avocado ($8), shrimp and dill ravioli with a ragout of wild mushrooms ($8). As the name of the place suggests, seafood is the specialty here, although other entrées include roasted marinated vegetables on pasta ($13) and a 20-ounce Porterhouse ($26). The signature attraction, however, is the "Taste of the Bluefin" prix fixe. For $29 a person (the entire table must partake), you share three appetizers and three desserts, and each person selects from a choice of four entrées. For entrées, my dining mate chose the salmon, which was very fresh and poached in champagne sauce. I had the beef filet, which was so tender that my knife nearly sank through it. What's more, the accompanying béarnaise sauce was served in a scooped-out plum tomato and seasoned with tarragon. What more could we ask? Desserts. The chocolate truffles flowing with bittersweet filling and the raspberries alongside Mascarpone-filled pastry shells were delightful. But the real magic moment came with our two crème brülées: under the caramelized sugar crust was a custard flavored with lavender! Between executive chef Franco Paterno's menu design and chef Phillippe Audax's execution, Bluefin Grille is a fine addition to the top ranks of Providence restaurants. (4/98)

DINO'S, 1235 Wampanaog Trail, East Providence (437-1178). Tucked into a small plaza just off Route 114 South, Dino's Italian Restaurant inhabits a space originally designed for and occupied by the Adesso Cafe. As a result, the decor is trendy: walls pebbled with teal and purple display large abstract paintings, while the high ceilings are dominated by arbor-like track lights with grape-colored accents. Italian pop with a kick, much like the menu. Its appetizers alone include prosciutto with mango, not melon; bruschetta with sage, not basil; and, unexpectedly, California rolls, which are sushi with scallions and salmon. The entrées are also eclectic but remain primarily Mediterranean -- pork chops with a port wine sauce, steak with a Dijon horseradish crust, and bouillabaisse in a saffron broth. We began our meal with the roasted garlic and Brie soup ($3.25) and a grilled pizza bianco ($7.95). The latter was a bit crispy, but the onions and goat's cheese made for a great contrast. For entrées, we ordered cannelloni with mixed mushrooms ($10.95) -- homemade pasta stuffed with mushrooms, ricotta, Marsala, and garlic and covered with tomato sauce. Along with this, we had the bouillabaisse ($14.95), which was heaped with mussels, clams, and shrimp in an excellent broth. The downside of our visit was the 10- to 15-minute wait between courses. The dishes at Dino's are creative and appealing, but to encourage repeat customers, the kitchen should stick to a better schedule. (4/98)

JOHNNY B'S, 1388 Cranston St., Cranston (944-4650). At one time, John Esposito waited tables and David Baccari chefed at the modest but first-rate Plaza Grille on Federal Hill. Now, at the Cranston diner they opened in 1990, modesty has been replaced with downright funkiness. Knotty-pine walls are decorated with everything from turn-of-the-century wedding photos to an autographed Connie Francis publicity shot to a poster-sized Kate Smith picture and a 1940s pinup calendar. Prior to our visit, we'd been informed by fellow brunch supplicants that on weekends it was unusual not to find a line. And before we even tasted a bite, we understood why. Weekend-only brunch choices were outlined on a nearby chalkboard, most costing only about $6. These included such interesting-sounding possibilities as French toast on custard with raspberry sauce and such welcome standards as a Greek omelet with feta and spinach. I had an omelet ($6.25) that was packed with leeks and potatoes and topped with Provolone and tangy sun-dried tomato sauce. My partner had strata with chicken sausage ($6.25) -- a dish she pronounced "very sausagey." And you gotta love a place that has the following request on its menu: "Limiting or omitting the use of tobacco is often appreciated." When you see guilt versus edict being employed for moral persuasion, you know the cooks have been raised in the right kitchens.(4/98)