The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

THE BOATHOUSE, 1 American Express Way, Providence, 272-1040. It's okay to let the peacoated midshipman park your car. At first glance, my boyfriend Andre mistook him for an enlisted man, but the valet was merely honoring the nautical motif here. Indeed, in the casual Captain's Quarters where we sat, the rest of the crew was waiting. For an appetizer, we stuck with the seafood theme and ordered fried calamari ($7.50). Lightly breaded, the squid had been cooked to a perfect firmness, and the peppers in the accompanying hot-pepper sauce didn't have us breathing fire. Not shy about pampering himself, Andre ordered the baked stuffed shrimp ($16.95) for his main course. They were stuffed with a delightful mix of crab, scallops, and shrimp. I happily munched on my grilled chicken sandwich on the other side of the table, and for dessert, we both went the sundae route -- the "Banana Boat Split" for Andre and the "Brownie Raft Sundae" for me. Nothing like dropping anchor at the Boathouse for one of the best meals in town. (12/97)

GREEN TEA, 5600 Post Road, East Greenwich, 884-3340. Unlike with other cuisines, finding a good Chinese restaurant among the many in the state is like your appetite finally winning the culinary lottery. (At one thriving place in South County, little frankfurter rounds have been found in the fried rice.) That's why our recent visit to Green Tea was such a pleasant surprise. The four chefs in the kitchen are from New York, including one who has a half-century's worth of experience cooking, and the overall emphasis is on Szechwan and Hunan. On the night we went, our party of three was satisfied with all three of the main items we shared. The "Lemon Sesame Shrimp" ($10.95) had a marvelously tangy sauce that the accompanying broccoli soaked up nicely. The "Hot and Spicy Chicken" ($10.95) -- translate "hot" as "mild" on this menu -- contained green rather than the red bell peppers promised, but the kitchen more than compensated with plenty of black mushroom caps, rather than the "shreds" described on the menu. All but the house specials are available in half orders, with fried or steamed rice and an egg roll, for the price of a full order. (12/97)

MODERN DINER, 364 East Avenue, Pawtucket, 726-8390. People don't just come to this colorful eatery for the atmosphere, for its wooden booths, rounded ceilings, and front end simulating a railway car. They come here for updated diner food rather than the usual hash and eggs (although this, too, is available on weekends for $2.95). Handmade signs and a blackboard post daily specials, which change frequently but are likely to include such creative omelets as kielbasa-and-cheddar or a sundried-tomato-feta-carmelized-onion incarnation. French toast may be stuffed with blueberries or cream cheese; specialty pancakes might be cranberry-almond or pumpkin-walnut, as well as the more familiar banana or berry. Lunchtime offerings include such classics as meatloaf, liver and onions, and corned beef and cabbage (Thursdays only), and breakfast is served all day. But please, no poached eggs after 11 a.m. during the week -- too much activity in the kitchen to give them proper attention. (12/97)

S.S. DION, 520 Thames Street, Bristol, 253-2884. Let's talk warmth: the rich colors of a stunning sunset over Bristol Harbor and the glow of embers in a glass-doored wood stove. The S.S. Dion (named after proprietors Stephen and Susan Dion) is decked out in a nautical motif, and its menu is one of the few with its own lobster category. (There are also nods to those who prefer chicken, beef, veal, or vegetarian dishes. The swimmers and creepers definitely predominate, though.) The seafood chowder ($2.95) was a bisque-like dream, and touches like homemade croutons on the salad and warm Italian bread were also appreciated. The scrod Dijon ($10.95), a large portion of fresh scrod with a fresh dill and shallot mustard sauce, was delicious, accompanied as it was by garlic mashed potatoes and baked winter squash. S.S. Dion is a place to linger -- to savor Key lime pie ($3.50), drink coffee and tea, and listen to the disc-playing grand piano serenade you with "Moon River."(3/97)