Montana

One bite of the barbecued flavor
and it'll be summer again

by Dawn Keable

272 Thayer Street
Providence
273-7427
Open Sun. to Thurs., 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Fri. and Sat. until 2 a.m.
Major credit cards
Not handicapped accessible

Tip number one: if you can find a parking spot anywhere on Thayer Street on a Saturday afternoon, grab it. Otherwise, you'll suffer the fate of my boyfriend (and sometimes chauffeur) Andre and I. As we circled around and around the block in search of that elusive "closer space," I became far too familiar with Montana's brick exterior.

After a mile hike in the pouring rain, we did make it inside eventually, and the first thing we noticed was that the interior of Montana had undergone minor renovations.

Although the changes are subtle, the new color scheme and lighter wood accents both brighten and open up the dining area. The booth seats, meanwhile, are covered in aqua and royal blue, while the chairs are upholstered in orange.

To go with the new look, Montana also has a new menu. Actually, the menu seems like a condensed version of old favorites with more salad selections. But what hasn't changed at all is the restaurant's Southwestern focus and its popularity among local college students -- and the parents visiting them for the weekend.

The day we visited, Andre started off with a "Beachin' " frozen colada ($4.50). (See, to Andre, piña coladas know no season; he would drink one in the dead of winter.) Smooth, sweet, and loaded with coconut flavor, the tropical drink was perfect. Noticing the faraway look in Andre's eyes, I became worried that I'd already lost him to the white sands of the Caribbean beach.

But Andre came back quickly enough when he smelled our arriving appetizer of "Foghorn Fingers" ($4.95). Batter-dipped and fried, the chicken tenders were a light, golden color. They were crispy, non-greasy, and served with a tangy, honey-mustard dipping sauce. I wolfed down three in rapid succession.

For a main course, Andre ordered the "St. Louis Ribs" ($12.95). Not a big surprise. It's a meal he'd eat 365 days a year if it weren't so much work to make -- or so messy to eat. With a smoky/hickory flavor, the rack of ribs tasted like they had been barbecued in the backyard. The lean meat was cooked in Montana Red Gold barbecue sauce, a spicy blend that complimented without overwhelming the dish. The ribs -- and extra napkins -- were missing within minutes.