Hilltop Cafe

Your friendly neighborhood bistro, with a Greek twist

by Dawn Keable

404 Wickenden Street
Providence
273-5300
Open Mon. through Fri., 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Sat. and Sun., 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.
No credit cards
Sidewalk-level access

My parents love to eat out. I think it has something to do with my mother's affliction -- "cooking burnout." I can't say I blame her, really. A '60s bride, she has spent vast amounts of time preparing picture-perfect meals as a dutiful wife. She still has a huge collection of Betty Crocker cookbooks to prove it. So naturally, a sure-fire way to get my parents to visit me is to promise lunch, especially at a place like the Hilltop Cafe.

The restaurant can be best described as your neighborhood cafe. You know, the kind of place where the staff knows your name. In fact, my mom thought the waitress knew mine, but I think her greeting was actually, "Hi, how're you doin' " -- easily mistaken for "Hi, Dawn" in a slurred Rhode Island accent.

Located on Wickenden Street, in the spot where Troye's used to be, the restaurant has an informal pizzeria feel to it with its black-checkered tablecloths and booth seating. And the wall decorations -- a mural and travel posters of Grecia -- make the Greek influence clear before you even peek at the menu.

On a recent Saturday afternoon, my boyfriend, Andre, and my parents and I arrived in plenty of time for brunch, as the Hilltop serves breakfast fixings until 2 p.m. on weekends and holidays. Traditionalists, we opted for lunch, though.

After ordering a soda, Dad wasted no time in asking for a bowl of the soup of the day, chicken rice ($1.50). Andre jumped right in behind him, with a ginger ale ($1 and refills are free) and buffalo wings ($4.95). Dad's homemade soup arrived piping hot and was filled with a delicious mix of chicken, rice, carrots, and celery. He liked it so much that he said if he had been headed directly home, he would have invested in a quart-to-go.

Andre actually surprised us all by offering to share his wings (although Dad was not convinced of how long the offer would last, so he kept a wing on his bread plate until he finished his soup.) I was a little apprehensive about the fire sauce the fried wings had been tossed in, but they weren't as painfully hot as the menu indicated. And under the moderately spicy, very crunchy and crispy coat was incredibly tender chicken.

When it came time for the main course, Mom went out on an experimental limb. Her choice, "Chicken Souvalki" ($5.25), is a Greek specialty sandwich featuring grilled marinated chicken, tomatoes, and onions rolled in a thick grilled pita. Every bite of her meal was more delicious than the last, she said. Mom even enjoyed the accompanying yogurt-based tzatsiki sauce, although she probably wouldn't be able to ask for it again by name.

Dad opted for the grilled chicken breast ($6.95) -- tender, lightly marinated chicken cut into strips and tossed with ziti in a butter sauce, then sprinkled with Romano cheese. Not only was his dish incredibly tasty, but it was so overloaded with food, no one could tell where the plate ended and the table began.

Hard to believe, but Andre's "Chicken Parmesan" dinner ($6.95) had even more food. Two moist and breaded chicken breasts were served atop a massive pile of al dente ziti covered with a very light tomato sauce.

I went with a tuna club sandwich ($4.95). Served with crispy fries, the triple decker on toasted wheat consisted of alternating layers of tuna, bacon, lettuce, and tomato. A good solid sandwich, but please -- lighten up on the mayo. It's the "tuna personal preference" thing, and I'm on the dry side.

Dessert, however, was yummy enough to set everything straight again. The four of us shared two slices of apple pie ($1.95), and the buttery confection had big chunks of cinnamony apples with a terrific, flaky crust. Each forkful simply melted in our mouths.

Not only did my parents have a very enjoyable meal at the Hilltop, but I think the delicious home cooking inspired my mother to come up with some new menu ideas of her own. My dad reports that she is spending time in the kitchen again, experimenting in ways to incorporate tzatsiki sauce into Thanksgiving dinner.