Parkside

Cool elegance and a melody of flavors

by Bill Rodriguez

76 South Main Street
Providence
331-0003
Open Mon.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Fri. & Sat., 5-11 p.m.
Sun., 4-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Handicapped accessible

The Parkside Rotisserie & Bar has grabbed one of the best locations in Providence. Across from the courthouse park and at the start of the Water/ Fire Providence walk, it's hard to miss. But, praise the gods of culinary delight, there's more going for it than location, location, location.

The Parkside opened a year ago this month where Amsterdams, the landmark bar, had been. The chef/proprietor is Steven Davenport, who helmed the kitchen at the prior place. He is an '83 grad of the Rhode Island School of Design's culinary program, which folded about five years ago. (Hint, hint, RISD administration -- the burgeoning population of local restaurants is crying out for artistry.)

The atmosphere at the Parkside, described on the menu as that of "casual elegance," is now the dominant personality of the Providence restaurant scene, signaling to diners that they will be treated with class but not stuffiness.

As you approach the restaurant, you'll see couples conversing at the row of café tables outside -- always a convivial note. Inside, a sassy, cartoonish painting of two women striking mock-sophisticated poses with martini and cigarette hangs between the picture windows and bar. A very "Let's play dress-up" tone.

Overall, the interior is lovely: above the bar, a sunset-bright orange splash of light atop a mahogany arch; at the tables, low lighting and bistro-style setups, bundled flatware and butcher paper on the tablecloths.

The restaurant serves only one soup of the day ($2.95), rather than adding one to everyday favorites. The night I went with my friend Gary, the soup was a puree of potatoes, leeks, and mushrooms. I passed and went straight to the appetizers.

Along with the obligatory grilled pizzas, there are two regular items with Cajun touches. The crab cakes ($8.25) sound scrumptious, with "Louisiana spices" and a roasted-red-pepper-and-lemon sauce. Their calamari ($6.25) also is imaginative, with the Cajun-seasoned squid rings joined by a cooling corn-and-pepper relish.

But since Gary, right before we ordered, had been describing a recent restaurant trauma involving a naked portobello cap and a hapless slab of frozen focaccia, the mushroom bruschetta ($6.95) caught our attention.

Sautéed together were shiitake, portobello, and ordinary field mushrooms. These were served over two big ovals of grilled bread, with a light cream sauce redolent of sage. The earthy herb was the perfect complement to the mushrooms, and the stray edge of blackened toast added oomph.

That hearty beginning emboldened me to take on a steak. Billed as a "Spicy Chipotle Sirloin" ($16.95), the center-cut was served rare, as ordered, atop a crostini graced with dollops of mascarpone and gorgonzola. (The latter is also in the house salad.)

An inch-and-a-half thick, the steak seemed like more than 14 ounces. And while the chipotle peppers (smoked jalapeños) worked nicely in the intense beef stock of the demi-glaze reduction, this wasn't the only enjoyable medley of flavors. Along with the rich, skin-on mashed potatoes came a combination of vegetables, mainly snow peas, roasted (but not too much) to blackened portions. I couldn't imagine a more apt vegetable side dish for a steak.

Gary is a reformed carnivore whom I used to drag to barbecues and such. Doing his best to keep his eyes away from my steak, he chose the farfalle ($9.95). Wouldn't you know, a taste made me envious. The bowtie pasta, cooked to retain some bite, was in delicious company. Smoked mozzarella appeared here and there, along with chunks of roasted garlic and eggplant, plenty of fresh tomatoes, and a splash of cream. But what really tantalized my tongue was the generous amount of pimentos.

There was no way I could do dessert, all of which are made on the premises -- from pumpkin cheesecake to chocolate "pate." But, inspired by my sirloin, as the Arnold purrs: I'll be back.