Gallimaufry

A take-home spread at bargain-basement prices

by Johnette Rodriguez

143 Point Street, Providence
521-4433
Open Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.-6 p.m.
Sat., 8 a.m.-3 p.m.
No credit cards
Sidewalk-level access

For the last seven years of my commuter existence, I have always counted on one place for a soothing soup, a hefty sandwich on home-baked bread, or a spur-of-the-moment cookie indulgence -- Gallimaufry Good Food. With its inviting herb garden to eat in, its helpful staff, and its cooks' delightfully tasty experiments in cold salads, Gallimaufry has been a reliable spot to stop for a treat, catch up with a friend, or pick up supper on my way out of town.

But until quite recently, I didn't exercise that last option enough because I didn't plan ahead and take advantage of Gallimaufry's extensive catering service by ordering take-home entrees and side dishes.

Now that this delectable deli has moved up Point Street a few doors, added indoor tables and air conditioning, and expanded overall, owners Pat and Paul Millette have come up with some catchy ideas to hook customers like me on more than their brownies.

Each weekday they offer at least two take-home entrees du jour, plus other specials, from soups to desserts, that are advertised throughout the establishment on flyers and bulletin boards.

Take Thursday, June 26: the soups were cream of broccoli/leek and black bean veggie; special entrees were Mediterranean chicken and oven-fried chicken. "Mom's potato salad" was suggested with the latter; curried vegetables and basmati rice with the former. Breads of the day were curry, anadama, and potato, and I chose the potato to accompany the broccoli/leek soup I'd ordered. The combination was blissfully comforting after an intense day of meetings.

Later, in the quiet of our own kitchen, we found both chicken dishes to be quite delicious, though the Mediterranean in particular won our hearts with its lemony overtones. The potato salad and curried vegetables were excellently herbed and spiced, with veggies hanging on to their individuality in both.

Take-home entrees and side dishes are priced by the pound at Gallimaufry -- the chicken dinners with dessert cost us a bargain-basement $15.42.

For desserts we tried the chocolate bread pudding and the giant almond macaroons, and both were winners. The bread pudding was very fudgy, and the macaroons were on-the-money almondy -- to the immense satisfaction of my husband, who pronounced the two treats just right with a post-prandial decaf.

Two weeks later I stopped by again and selected from the entrees and vegetables left after the ravishing hordes of Fourth of July weekend picnickers had descended. Yet I copped a piece of rare flank steak with green peppercorns for my work-at-home carnivore (complete with stuffed baked potato and grilled vegetables) and mushroom-stuffed triangolo pasta for myself.

The golden-doughed pasta was spotted pink from the red onion bits tossed its way. Roasted red peppers and sliced shitakes completed the medley, which was harmonious in every way. Kudos drifted over to me about the care taken with the steak and its accoutrements.

I can personally vouch for the fluffiness of the potato (with broccoli bits for crunch) and the expertly grilled veggies (carrots, eggplant, red and green peppers, and zucchini).

That evening's take-homes cost us a little over $19, but that included three generous slices of Gallimaufry's signature "filled breads." These are dense loaves stuffed with either artichoke hearts (my all-time favorite), spinach and pinenuts, sausage (my husband's favorite), turkey/swiss (my daughter's choice), cheese, eggplant (too peppery and vinegary for me), ham and broccoli (another husband-pleaser) or vegetables.

Again, there are specials on various days, such as Philly cheese steak or Reuben fillings. Separately, the filled breads go for $9.50 a loaf and $1.50 a slice for the veggie varieties and $12.50 and $1.65 for the meats.

By choosing to keep its over-the-counter format and maintaining a bustling catering trade (from takeout lunch platters for 25 to full-blown catered wedding receptions for 150), the Millettes have built a loyal clientele that is only too happy to see them move to roomier digs -- and thrilled to finally try something beyond the best-in-the-city tuna salad sandwiches that first lured them here.