The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

AGORA, at the Westin Hotel, West Exchange St., Providence (598-8011). At the Agora restaurant, presentation is everything, as it should be in a hotel as stylishly upscale as the Westin. It starts with the plush decor of heavy brocade drapes and overstuffed loveseats at tables for two and continues with the waiters' dramatic flourishes as they set dishes in front of you. Chefs Casey Riley and Susan R. Witt use herbs and spices to great effect. Truffle risotto is infused with lavender; salmon is glazed with fennel and red chilis; the pineapple souffle is set off with dollops of tarragon sauce and a sprig of the herb itself. The color is often as impressive as the seasoning. One example is the roasted Vidalia onion and spring asparagus soups appetizer ($8). Served in one wide bowl, the creamy white and fresh green soups form two halves of a circle, separated by a coral-colored cheese souffle. All in all, visitors are pampered by waiters, coddled by chefs, and charmed by a view of the sun's last glow on the New England houses that climb up University Heights. (6/97)

BASHA, 284 Thayer St., Providence (331-8111). Perhaps the most striking thing about Basha is its interior. The dining area is a great size, while the front is a continuous panel of windows overlooking Thayer Street. The wall montages, tables, adornments, and chairs add to the charm. As for the food, the appetizers were of generous proportions, and although the fried calamari ($5.50) needed more seasoning when we visited, the stuffed mushrooms ($4.95) were quite satisfying. They were packed with a delicious seafood stuffing and served in a butter/wine sauce. The same theme ran throughout the meal -- the basics of food preparation were there, but some of what we tried was on the bland side and needed a little something extra. My overall feeling is that Basha is playing it a little too safe. Break out the spice rack, add some pizzazz, and then the food will be worthy of the lovely interior. (6/97)

THE ECLECTIC GRILLE, 409 Atwells Ave., Providence (831-8010). A good place for local celebrity watching (Channel 12's Karen Adams was spotted on this particular visit), the Eclectic Grille has a distinct NYC feel. The restaurant is airy, with a bar and open grill area in the back, and the crowd is cosmopolitan. The fried squid appetizer ($7.75), served on a bed of red-leaf lettuce with a creme fraiche, was lightly fried and delicately seasoned. Ordering the spinach linguine with mushrooms, spinach, black olives, zucchini, summer squash, roasted peppers, and plum and sun-dried tomatoes ($12.95) is akin to ordering a garden. The dessert lottery was won by the cheesecake -- sprinkled with sliced strawberries and a strawberry liqueur sauce, it was incredibly smooth and creamy. Two cups of tea ($1.75) later, we closed the restaurant down. (4/97)

INDIA, 123 Dorrance St., Providence, (278-2000). Amid the warm dark wood ambiance of India is a restaurant that is personal, endearing, and good. The bar serves Indian specialties, such as Kingfisher Beer and a cream sherry. Among the appetizers, the aloo paratha, a pancake of grilled whole-wheat bread stuffed with mashed potatoes and cilantro, confirmed our belief that no cuisine does better by potatoes than Indian. Our entrees, a "veggie mango" ($6.95) and a mixed kabobs platter ($14.95), were sweetly seasoned and well marinated, respectively. The desserts at India are equally impressive. The shahi kheer ($1.95) is a sweet cardamomed rice pudding heavy on the almond slices. The gulab jamun ($2.50) is a golf ball-sized piece of fried dough soaked in honey and oris water. For an extra dollar, a scoop of mango Ben & Jerry's comes with it. The whole experience is enough to make you wonder whether what they were really doing in the Kama Sutra was sublimating over food. (6/97)