[Sidebar] May 29 - June 5, 1997
[Food Reviews]
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The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

CHEEKY MONKEY, 14 Perry Mill Wharf, Newport, 845-9494. What's in a name? For Cheeky Monkey, it's a concept and a whimsical moniker that lends shape to this restaurant from the folks who brought us the Gatehouse in Providence. With a British Colonial spin, and monkeys on the chandeliers, this restaurant stakes its claim to "fun-loving." Two secondary themes emerge in chef Holly Dion's eclectic menu: her interests in Creole and Cajun tastes, as well as Asian dishes. There are nods to the British inspiration, however, such as the beer-battered fish and chips ($12.95). After dinner, guests are invited to move to the plush sitting room upstairs for brandy and cigars. (12/96)

IL PICCOLO, 1450 Atwood Ave., Johnston (421-9843). Driving deep into the heart of Atwood Avenue strip mall country, we were a little skeptical about Il Piccolo at first. Could this be any place for a fine Italian restaurant, near a KFC and Subway sandwich shop? Well, our qualms were laid to rest the minute we walked through the door. Small cafe-style tables were scattered throughout the place, while a contemporary jazz band played for our listening pleasure. We'd come to sample the new menu and the innovative cooking of Chef Al, who'd arrived from a tour at Pot Au Feu. Starting with gnocchi ripieni ($6.95) and la fregola ($7.50), we had nodino ai ferri ($18.95), a grilled veal T-bone steak heaped high with mushrooms, for a main course, and the meal was worth every penny. (5/97)

LUCY'S, 441 Atwells Ave., Providence (273-1189). Walking into Lucy's, we were immediately captured by the classic hues of Fiestaware and the fringed cotton napkins rolled next to them on the tables. The warm wood and burgundy naugahyde cushions of the booths were also inviting, as well as the the miniature Italian columns in the room -- reminders of Cafe Verdi's former residency here. Lucy's menu is eclectic, giving a modern twist to the place's Old World elegance. The chefs sashay from Italian cuisine to Southwestern, gnocchi to quesadillas, and nod to Asian specialties along the way. The braised chicken ($14.95) and pan-roasted tilapia ($16.95) were particularly delicious. (5/97)

PLAYER'S CORNER PUB, 194 Washington St., Providence (621-8738). Although Player's has always been across from Trinity Repertory Company, the players it's dedicated to are not of a thespian persuasion. This place has always been a sports bar, TVs all tuned to ESPN, conversation at the beer taps all in enthusiastic denial of the Sox's chances this year for a pennant. But the talk may turn to cuisine now that Jimmy Kazounis, as in the restaurant Jimmy's at the Italo, is in charge of the kitchen here. We sampled every corner of the menu and found that, by and large, the traditions had traveled well across town. The grilled chicken breast ($9.95), for instance, was moist and flavored deliciously with a lemon-garlic sauce. Cheap eats that's also good food -- and convenient to the theater? We'll be back. (5/97)

NIPPON RESTAURANT, 231 Wickenden St., Providence (331-6861). Stepping into the tiny front room of Nippon, we were surprised to see only two booths and a small table. But then we were led into the Tatami Room, where eating takes place with flat pillows to sit on. Workday stress, along with shoes, was left at the door of this two-story room. On the lower level, the waiters slip out of their sandals before sliding along on their knees to serve you. Nippon has an impressive list of sashimi appetizers (raw fish or seafood that becomes sushi with the addition of layered fish or wrap-around rice) and larger or innovative makis like the "Philadelphia maki" filled with cream cheese, smoked salmon, and scallions. For dinner, my partner speared the tuna teriyaki ($11.95), a generous portion of fresh tuna that had been marinated, grilled, and topped with sesame seeds. A Japanese jambalaya of a plate! (5/97)

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