Basta

Feels like a transplant from the Hill

by Johnette Rodriguez

(401) 461-0330, 2195 Broad St., Cranston
Open Sun-Thurs, 4:30-8:30 p.m.; Fri-Sat, until 10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Handicapped access

Five minutes from downtown Providence, the quaint village of Pawtuxet is a welcome respite from the pace of the city. You can stroll down to the water's edge, pausing for ice cream along the way, or you can step into one of Pawtuxet's fine dining spots, such as Basta Cafe and Restaurant. Inside, Basta feels like a Federal Hill transplant -- lush shades of burnished red, in wood-paneled walls, chair backs, and the wallpaper in the back dining room; tulip-shaded lamps on walls and above the bar; gilt-framed still lifes; and starched linens with fresh flowers on the tables.

The menu also sticks close to the heart of this state's Italian-American cuisine: veal and chicken marsala; gnocchi Bolognese; tortellini vodka; lamb osso bucco; and pork chops dolce vita (a sweet and spicy sauce). Veal dishes dominate the meat offerings, with a nod to another of Rhode Island's ethnic groups in the veal T-bone irlandese (glazed with Irish whiskey).

There seemed to be many regulars at the tables near us, and they were diving into the fried calamari, the clams casino and the mushroom trifolati -- wild mushrooms with garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, and Parmesan crostini. We couldn't resist

the artichoke crisps ($8.25), thin sliced

artichoke bottoms fried to potato chip mode, with an artichoke mousse for dipping. The butter and lemon sauce on the plate was an added spark for this delightful appetizer.

For our entrees, we were both in a seafood mood. Bill gravitated toward the shrimp in the capellini Brivido ($17.95) and I went for the grilled marinated swordfish ($16.50). Trusting that the swordfish supply is back up to snuff, I indulged in one of my favorite seafoods, and these three thin medallions were expertly grilled and excellently complemented by a mound of arugula and fresh tomatoes in a sherry-orange vinaigrette. There were no yellow tomatoes, as promised in the menu, but there were two crisp cross-sections of fennel and two strips of roasted peppers. Mashed red bliss potatoes and a sweet-sauced carrot and zucchini combo accompanied the swordfish dinner.

Bill's capellini was tossed with roasted garlic, diced fresh tomatoes, arugula, and a hot-spicy marinara. It was topped with four jumbo shrimp, and it knocked our socks off, from the firmness of the angel hair pasta to the kick of the sauce. It was precisely Bill's kind of dish.

Desserts at Basta, which are from Pastry Arts in Central Falls, include cheesecake, chocolate mousse torte, lemon meringue pie, and a triple chocolate cake ($5.95), which was my choice. Bill ordered the mango sorbet ($4.95), decorated with a dollop of raspberry sauce. My cake was good, with frosting a different, darker chocolate than the filling between the three layers.

Another note to this being a more traditional than nouveau Italian restaurant: butter, instead of olive oil, was served with the bread; there was no herb tea available and no postprandial espresso was offered. The staff was friendly to locals, but not so much to newcomers.

Basta does have a full bar and a broad selection of wines. So, stop by for a sip or a sup if you're in Pawtuxet, or make an excursion to the village -- it's much easier than parking on Federal Hill.