Main Street Fish Market

Sea creatures by popular demand

by Bill Rodriguez

(401) 782-2366, 402A Main St., Wakefield
Open Mon-Tues, 9:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Wed, 9 a.m.-7 p.m.
Thurs & Sat, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Fri, 9 a.m.-8:30 p.m., Sun, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
Major credit cards
Handicapped access

Wouldn't it be nice if every restaurant came into being as naturally -- by popular demand -- as Main Street Fish Market? In 1994, the market part opened under present ownership. Word quickly got around that diners could rely on their fresh fish, rather than resorting to the jet-lagged supermarket creatures that make you feel as if you're in Iowa. Proprietor Dan Montmarquett offered chowder and fish & chips from the start, and the demand was such that a dining room was added about three years ago. An addition last year more than doubled the number of tables, to almost 20, and they remain busy on weekend summer nights.

As far as I know, seafood cookery is the trickiest kind to do right. Not only are good, fresh ingredients essential, you're talking timing challenges as crucial as those found in Formula One racing. Mere seconds can make the difference between a succulent filet and a treat for the cat.

We've occasionally eaten at Main Street and the place has been pretty reliable. Johnnie and a friend recently had steamed lobster ($12.95), which my counterpart -- who fumes over crustaceans rendered chewy -- pronounced "just right." During lunch a few weeks ago, a friend had a perfectly non-greasy fish sandwich ($4.95 for scrod, $5.95 for Point Judith flounder), and I was delighted by a grilled yellowfin tuna burger ($4.95) that was moist as well as tasty. In addition to the three usual chowders -- made with broth or milk or tomatoes -- what's billed as "creamy fish chowder" ($1.95/$3.35) contains swordfish, tuna, cod, lobster, and scallops. These ingredients were generous and my bowl also contained a couple of shrimp. As welcome was its briny tang, from clam juice, I'd guess

As you can expect from a location next to a fish market, where sanitary concerns have to be a fetish, the restaurant conveys a no-smoking, squeaky-clean ambience. The tabletops are Formica, but bordered with oak to take the edge off the antiseptic feeling. The fish theme extends to posters and a photo of a gull-shrouded trawler, and is complemented by a ducks-in-flight painting motif, for a little hunting lodge chic.

During our visit on a Tuesday, service was friendly, but oddly slowed for such items as sodas and a basket of rolls, with only four other tables occupied. But the dishes that arrived promptly would have been worth a wait. Lobster bisque ($2.95/$5.50) was buttery, with the expected hint of sherry, and a few unexpected chunks of lobster. Main Street has clam cakes, a regional specialty in which I've yet to find a sufficient amount of the headline ingredient. But judging from a special of a half-dozen conch fritters ($3.95), which Johnnie and I inhaled, the clam content in the clam cakes here is probably generous. I was surprised to see several conch morsels in one bite-size bell-pepper-flecked piece, and the Key lime mayonnaise dip was refreshingly tart.

There are burgers and chicken sandwiches, as well as steaks and poultry dinners, but ordering any of this would be like asking for a tofu platter at The Capital Grille. The "Fisherman's Feast" ($11.95) looked inviting and definitive. Lightly battered and quickly fried, the array was delicious: a small slab of flounder, lots of squid rings and tentacles, clams and a few plump oysters, three butterflied shrimp, and a sprinkling of scallops. The last items, being so small, were the only ones overcooked, and the farm-raised bay scallops made up for their slight dryness by being much more flavorful than sea scallops. We also tried a special of roasted striped bass ($13.95). Topped with sun-dried tomatoes and basil butter, the striper was so fresh that even its oily dark meat layer didn't taste fishy. It came with my choice of corn on the cob and roasted potatoes that had an interesting seasoning, like curly fries.

For a capper, Main Street Fish Market's grapenut pudding ($2.25) or blueberry crisp ($2.95) won't disappoint. The daily dessert special might distract you, though, such as the bourbon pecan pie a la mode ($3.95) that wafted up from the menu during our visit.

Speaking of bourbon, Main Street doesn't have a liquor license, but there's a package store just across the parking lot. There's an annoying $2 BYOB fee for bringing in beer and wine, so you might as well make it a six-pack, unless you don't mind paying that much to pop a can.