La Camelia

Armenian with a friendly flair

by Bill Rodriguez

92 Waterman Ave., East Providence, (401) 434-1225
Open Mon-Sat, 5-10 p.m.
No credit cards
No handicapped access

Despite the vowels, La Camelia is not an Italian restaurant, but it might as well be. In other words, the restaurant's hospitality is easily a match for the welcome that we Rhode Islanders have grown accustomed to in a state where pasta is as available as cold beer. This cozy East Providence institution is familiar to everybody around there who appreciates home cooking in a relaxed setting. If we're not Armenian when we arrive, we will be -- at least by a few ounces -- by the time we leave.

I'd recently had such a pleasant and friendly Middle Eastern dinner over in Cranston, at Efendi's, that I was still primed for the cuisine and hospitality. La Camelia was the place to get both, we knew from previous experience, so we beckoned a friend and headed over. Middle Eastern Oud music greeted us upon entering the little place, as did our hostess and waitress, Guylaine Moukhtarian, who brought a generous bowl of pistachios along with our menus. La Camelia's intimacy stems from it being a two-person operation, with husband George in the kitchen, and Guylaine handling no more customers than she can while maintaining her amiable presence. (A seventh table has supplies on it, so evidently the capacity of the place -- and of her -- has been fine-tuned to a half-dozen.)

The decor is simple and strikes the expected tone, with camels amid the milling scenes of two framed prints. Most tellingly, the Moukhtarians' declaration of purpose, the sort usually in a small box on the menu, is emblazoned in 72-point Old English type near the entrance, proclaiming their Armenian background and dedication to fresh ingredients.

Soup a la Cardinal, rich with several grains, was still on the spring menu, but is no longer available since the weather is warming. Fear not, though, for a dearth of whole grains on any Mid-Eastern menu. Too little roughage is not a regional problem. Hot pita is always the bread of the day, of course, and since most of the appetizers are basically dips, the flat bread does double duty. Wine is available by the glass or inexpensively by the bottle. With these hearty dishes you may prefer beer, which is also served.

Appetizers that you won't get elsewhere around here include "Armenian pastrami" -- basterma -- ($4.75), salt-cured, thin- sliced and spicy hot, and Armenian string cheese ($4.75), accompanied by olives. We assembled a sampler by ordering as one of our entrées the "Vegetarian's Favorite Delights" ($9.75), which consists of half portions of your choice of four appetizers. Good idea. The falafel was unusually light, the croquettes of ground chickpeas and fava beans under dribbles of sesame tahini. The baba ghanoush was also quite good, the eggplant charcoal grilled for a wonderfully smoky flavor. Filling out the platter was tabbouleh, which could have used some mint along with the chopped parsley in the bulghur wheat; and fool moudammas, with favas and whole chickpeas in a simple combination. You can't not have the stuffed grape leaves here ($3 for four), so we ordered that as well, and weren't sorry.

My dining companions chose to share the cod filet, which was grilled in two thick strips, not over-cooked and delicious with its pilaf and grilled plum tomato and peppers. Although nearly half the dozen offerings on the menu were kabobs, I'd had some recently, so I searched further. As I recall with smacking lips, George's kabob marinade is enthusiastic about its garlic and hot pepper. The kabobs range from swordfish (market price) to filet mignon ($12.75), but billed as the "Chef's Pride" is the losh kabob ($10.75) which is ground lamb or sirloin, herbed and spiced.

I chose the stuffed pan koufta ($10.75). Carnivores, be advised: this is a must for your life list. The active ingredient on the plate is a large wedge of, well, meat-stuffed meat. Your choice is ground lamb or beef mixed with bulghur wheat, and this is filled with a spiced mixture of chopped sirloin, onions, parsley, and pine nuts. It's all quite tasty, if a bit dry, so make sure it's served as described on the menu -- with mixed vegetables in a special house sauce. Guylaine said that most people prefer it with the pilaf and roasted red pepper, an appropriate complement that joined my order instead of the vegetables, but I would order the vegetables on the side as well, for the light tomatoey sauce.

For dessert the choice is simple: not which to have but whether to indulge. There is only one choice, Guylaine's homemade baklava ($1.50), and the idea of your not having any distresses me. Please, my treat, if necessary. Nibble the remarkably light little triangles that are sprinkled with ground pistachios and thinned-down honey. While you're at it, sip a demitasse of thick, sweet Armenian coffee, for an additional sigh of contentment. Next Thanksgiving will make 20 years that the Moukhtarians have invited us into their establishment, much as they would into their home. Lift a cup to their health.