Naissance

Starting out elegant

by Bill Rodriguez

242 Atwells Ave., Providence, (401) 272-9610
Open Wed-Fri, 5-11 p.m. Sat, 10 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-11 p.m. Sun, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access

Appropriately, at least for a while, the name of the latest upscale restaurant to spring up on Federal Hill means birth or beginning in French. Naissance was going to be called Renaissance, until a Warwick café with the same name objected (the valet parking signs on the street outside have the "Re" nearly obliterated, but there are no scissored-out holes on the menus). Restaurateurs have to be adaptable and imaginative folks, and opening another place on the Hill -- the culinary equivalent of opening a coal shop in Newcastle -- requires these traits in spades.

The decor is the first attraction, intriguing passersby who glance in. It's posh, but not pretentious: a burgundy swag is draped above a rear-room bar, and there are two ornately framed, light-hearted figure paintings nearby. Framed mirrors in the front room echo the stylishness. There are interesting textures and contrasts: weathered brick on the upper walls, rough-edged faux limestone for tabletops, and on the other hand, a supple green banquette with playfully contrasting tan buttons. The proprietors of the Blue Grotto down the street, which saved itself a few years ago by redecorating to seem less stuffy, are part owners of Naissance.

Of course, the best place for a new restaurant to show it's different is on the plate. The first such indication on Naissance's menu comes when the requisite calamari is served under fried leeks and with pepper relish, rather than the usual pepperoncini. Some of the other appetizers ($7-$9) are ethnically varied, such as curried skewered chicken and coconut-crusted shrimp.

For her appetizer, Johnnie was attracted by the zucchini boats, which were described as filled with roasted vegetables. The thick slices were broiled under a mozzarella topping and served atop a sherried cream sauce. She liked the delicate taste combination, but would have preferred some residual texture in the macerated veggies. More to my hearty appetite was the steak en brochette. The thin-sliced meat was prepared in an ancho chili marinade, skewered, and grilled. Although little of the spicy heat came through, the earthy flavor did, and the accompanying cup of cilantro sour cream was an appealing complement to the nearly entrée-sized portion of eight pieces.

Speaking of dipping sauces, Naissance is big on them. Four fondues ($13-$15) are listed, although since the word derives from French for melt, only the cheddar and beer one, and the chocolate dessert version, are properly designated. One of their versions presents fried mozzarella, grilled vegetables and focaccia to dip in tomato sauce. We had the Asian-style fondue and were treated to quite a display. In addition to a candle-heated bowl of plum and ginger sauce, a three-tier wrought-iron holder was brought to the table. Ten spring rolls, sprouting fried vermicelli, were on one plate, tempura vegetable sticks on another, and fried whole-wheat Chinese noodles and fettuccine on the third. Copious, although I would have welcomed more red bell pepper, or any green beans, to relieve the blandness that zucchini and carrots get when buried in batter.

A diner at another table recommended the chicken with wild mushrooms ($17), but I wanted to sample one of the three pastas among the eight entrées (executive chef Kerry Blum will soon be adding more pastas in a spring menu). The fusili in a pesto and sherry cream sauce ($14) was done to my dining mate's satisfaction, but I need al dente resistance to be pleased. I should have predicted this, since the corkscrew shape of that pasta has too much surface to risk undercooking. The radicchio cup of the menu description was missing, although the sun-dried tomatoes were a welcome addition.

Naissance must be proud of their kitchen-made desserts ($5-$7), since there are as many of them as main dishes. They range from the obligatory crème brûlée and tiramisu to a novel ravioli: a chocolate shell filled with white chocolate mousse. Our choices were mixed. The featured ingredient didn't come through much in the banana cake with rum frosting and toasted coconut, but the Amaretto bread pudding on a pool of mocha cream was full-flavored and delicious.

Plenty is being offered at this relatively new restaurant, which opened last September. There are two bars, an expansive wine list, jazz on Wednesday and Thursday, and dancing Friday and Saturday, plus weekend brunch. Clearly, Naissance is hoping that dinner will be only the beginning.