The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

DON JOSé TEQUILAS, 351 Atwells Ave., Providence (454-8951). Re-opening in April after an absence of nearly a year, this Mexican restaurant has relocated from Olneyville to Federal Hill. The decor is fancier, with dangling ivy and walls sponge-painted papaya, but there's still the stray sombrero and serape. Like the setting, the menu has been upscaled a bit, though not so much the prices. For example, a special of pan-fried rainbow trout in white wine, lemon and butter -- the Mexican touch being cilantro -- was $11.95. Among the appetizers, we had a sampler, the aperitivo especial ($8.95), which has a variety of treats, including wedges of cheese and chicken tacos. There's a choice of soups: beef, vegetable, seafood, and a daily special, each $5.95. Most traditional items are available, from burritos to enchiladas -- not to mention "steamed goat shanks in guajillo sauce." Interesting daily items on a recent visit included sautéed shrimp in an orange and tequila cream sauce; and chicken breast stuffed with chorizo, a poblano chile and cheese, under mole sauce ($11.95 each). Don Jose roast pork ($10.95) is marinated in chicken broth, evaporated milk and tequila, and it's as flavorful as it sounds. All entrées come with a loose preparation of mashed beans, plus Spanish rice, and ours also had small shredded salads on the plates. The kitchen-made desserts, none more than $3, include carrot cake, and fresh papaya in a caramelized sauce. The flan is cooked long enough here to have a creamier consistency than most others. Delicious. And don't forget to ask about the off-the-menu ceviche. (8/00)(7/00)

FISH STORIES, 629 Succotash Road, East Matunuck (789-2864). Summer visitors come to South County for the surf and the sand, but they stick around for a good cup o' chowdah, a few "stuffies" and a cold beer at the end of the day. A newcomer to the seafood scene, Fish Stories offers all three and much more. Just up the road from East Matunuck State Beach, Fish Stories has glorious views of the water and wildlife from the dining room's back tables. The seafood here is either grilled (with a choice of four marinades), baked (with or without stuffing) or sautéed (in white or red sauces). Clams zuppa ($5.95), littlenecks in red or white sauce (we chose white), and sautéed calamari ($5.95), are a good way to start. The littlenecks were tasty, with plenty of garlic in the sauce (great for dipping our bread), and the calamari was similarly good. Other appealing choices include grilled tuna salad ($8.95) and jerk shrimp salad ($9.95). Seafood cioppino ($12.95), with clams, mussels, scallops and shrimp, had a tasty sauce and the scallops were just right, although the clams, mussels and shrimp seemed a little over-cooked. Stuffed flounder ($10.95), featured chunks of real crabmeat in the stuffing and creamy lobster sauce on top, along with sides of pan-fried red bliss potato slices and mixed summer vegetables. Most desserts at Fish Stories are not house-made, so we tried one that was: strawberry shortcake ($4.50). It featured a delicious pound-cake and a balsamic treatment that mysteriously brought out the sweetness of the strawberries. (8/00)

OLYMPIA TEA ROOM, 74 Bay St., Watch Hill (348-8211). Boasting a sea view and located between shopping spree temptations, this distinctive destination has been pretty popular since it opened in 1916. Outside tables allow for up-close people watching, and the usual breeze off of Block Island Sound provides nature's own air conditioning. Inside, the ambiance is '50s soda fountain-meets-Henri Rousseau. Culinary imagination is also in evidence. Among the appetizers, grilled scallops ($8.50) come on fried greens with wasabi; liver and onions ($15.95) is offered as a bravely nostalgic comfort-food opportunity. Among entrees, the baked and stuffed Point Judith one-pound lobster ($23) had crab and small shrimp in a buttery stuffing, and was cooked to perfection: just barely done, and thereby sweet and juicy. Calamari Olympia ($16.50), featured tender local squid and a flavorful topping with tomatoes, peppers and calamata olives, although the linguini was past al dente. The tea room's half-dozen desserts are worth a trip by themselves. Priced from $4.50-$6, they span the indulgence spectrum from Key lime pie and griddled pound cake to rum-soaked ginger bread, and chocolate cake topped with fudge sauce. Although summer is when most people discover or revisit the Olympia Tea Room (it's packed during the hot weather), it will remain open this year until January. (8/00)