Hammerhead Grill
Seafood as good as the ocean view
by Bill Rodriguez
1230 Ocean Road, Narragansett, 789-6159
Open Sun-Thurs, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
Fri-Sat, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
No handicapped access (Restaurant is on second floor)
In a state that claims license plate bragging rights to the Atlantic Ocean,
there are surprisingly few South County restaurants with a sea view. Sure, you
can crane your neck at some restaurant windows and see gulls drifting in the
distance or get a whiff of salt air on the deck, but sometimes it's nice to
watch the moon on the water. The Hammerhead Grill, in Narragansett, is the
latest dining room with a view, and the food looks as good as the scenery.
The place is above the Bon Vue Inn, the local beach bar institution way down
Ocean Road. It's an informal, paper napkin sort of restaurant, but the decor is
sleek, with sand-colored walls, and potted palms and dangling ivy above the
entry. Surrounding the bar against the back wall are window tables, with the
3-D seascape at the bay end. The Point Judith Lighthouse is on the curving spit
in mid-distance, and close by is a marshy salt pond, with water fowl drifting
amid the cattails. On the early evening we were there, cygnets were trailing a
proud pair of swans in picturesque overkill.
The menu prices are remarkably low, as though most of the choices are
loss-leaders to build a faithful clientele (The Hammerhead Grill opened in
March). We weren't given a wine list, but the house brand is from Italy; the
pinot grigio is appealingly fruity ($4 a glass). As the grill's name makes
clear, seafood is serious business here. Meat-eaters are bought off with five
token items. At $18.95, a one-pound sirloin is about the most expensive choice
on the menu, apart from the market-price lobster. A signature fettuccini
($10.95) contains Italian sausage, with an unusual combination of tomatoes and
peas in a cream sauce. Also popping out is marinated jerk-style chicken
($12.95), its description boasting that the recipe came "straight from
Jamaica."
That's a touch by chef Mike Sweeney, who last worked at restaurants in the
Florida keys. On the daily menu, he offers his favorite Cajun blackened recipe
for red snapper ($12.95). Learning of his keys connection helped me understand
why there was marlin, of all things, in the fish chowder, as our waitress
informed us. The exact piscine component of this chowder ($3.95) changes daily,
and I must admit that I've never had better. There's a little tomato in the
cream base and a light hand behind the herbs, all letting the fish -- of which
there's a heap in every spoonful -- come through with the vegetables. Don't
pass this up.
We chose another specialty for a first course, broiled oysters ($7.95), which
competes on the menu with oysters Rockefeller ($8.95). Served on the
half-shell, the half-dozen briny beasties were drowning in a slurry of buttery
bread crumbs, with roasted garlic also pumping up the volume. They melt in your
mouth.
Six seafood dishes, from sea scallops ($14.95) to striped bass ($12.95), are
all prepared in white wine and butter, topped lightly with bread crumbs and
broiled. Johnnie had the "Grand Banks halibut" ($14.95) done this simple way,
which conflicts the least with delicate flavor of the fish, and was well
pleased. The inch-plus-thick steak was juicy and flavorful. The accompanying
sautéed julienned vegetables, and especially the rice pilaf, were
improved nicely by the butter and wine sauce.
I was in the mood for plain ol' fish and chips, and figured that the
yellowtail flounder version ($10.95), instead of the usual cod, would be a
treat. It was -- three delicious filets. However, since they were
batter-coated, they were greasier than I prefer; the delicate fish might profit
better from a lightly floured version. (Chef Sweeney worked at George's of
Galilee 15 years ago, and old techniques die hard.) The French fries were
standard-issue.
The Florida keys influence extends to the desserts, so we had a formidable Key
lime pie ($3.95): tasty crumb shell, extra citrusy filling, extra-thick whipped
cream topping. Surprisingly, it was made at Ginger's Café bakery in
next-door Wakefield and only scouted out by the chef. But hey, I'll take good
food any way I can get it. And at the Hammerhead Grill, I got it.