The following listings have been distilled from recent
full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the
month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not
included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some
menus change seasonally.
ANNIE'S, 176 Bellevue Ave.,
Newport, (849-6731). Annie's will stoke you full of good food and good vibes.
Tucked into a slim, diner-shaped space, this breakfast and lunch spot carries
the green theme of awning-shaded Bellevue Avenue storefronts inside to an
elegant and relaxing effect. Menu highlights include the cook's choice quiche,
made with fresh cream, eggs, cheeses, vegetables or meats, and served with a
fruit cup or a cup of soup ($5.75), and Annie's Madness, a B&T on sourdough
with a light cheese sauce ($4.50). The menu includes 15 omelets with
interesting variations, such as chourico with tomatoes and peppers. The filling
farmer's omelet ($6.95) is done just right, with fluffy egg batter, lots of
tender veggies, and just the right amount of Swiss, American and mozzarella
cheeses. Omelets are accompanied by steak-fry cut home fries that are crisp on
the outside, with plenty of potato on the inside, and a hint of garlic on the
surface, and a basket of two thick-cut slices of delicious Portuguese
sweetbread with a square of coffee cake. The crow's nest, a Benedict with
Annie's own delicious corned beef hash, has a sauce that, while not as lemony
as most, has a good tang. Decaf and full-strength coffee carafes are pleasingly
left at the table and the herbal tea selection is good. While the blueberry
muffin doesn't quite measure up, a better choice is the fresh fruit cup, served
in an old-fashioned sundae cup ($1.90). The next time you visit the Newport
mansions, consider stoping in at Annie's.(5/00)
BELLA VISTA, 1 American Express Way, Providence (272-1040). While the former
Boathouse has a new Italian name, menu and courtyard, it still has the same
terrific view of Waterplace Park and WaterFire. The menu is extensive,
with more than a half-dozen entrees each of seafood, meat, veal and poultry; a
dozen pasta dishes; and four risotto variations. The gamberi alla Romana
appetizer, three jumbo shrimp flamed table side and served with spinach and
radicchio ($9.95), is delicious for those who like their shrimp a bit
undercooked, and features a sweet Sambuca sauce, albeit one in which the anise
flavor has evaporated. The earthy arugula salad, tossed in a vinaigrette and
topped with roasted red peppers and kalamata olives, ($5.95) is a treat. The
arborio rice in the risotto al pescatore ($17.95) entree had just the right
degree of firmness, and the pleasant kick of the light tomato sauce didn't
overwhelm the littlenecks, scallops, lobster meat, and baby shrimp. The dish
could be improved, though, by using medium-sized shrimp and more lobster. The
rollotini di pollo, although tasty, didn't seem spectacular enough to be a
$19.95 entree. While $7.50 per glass for the chianti and chardonnay we had
seemed steep for bland wines, Bella Vista is updating its wine list for its two
full bars. Most of the desserts, including the tiramisu, are made by the
skilled bakers at the Christopher Matthews deli in Smithfield, and a few
specials, including the cherries jubilee, are flambeed table side. The best
fired-up performances at Bella Vista, however, are the crackling bonfires that
ring the pool next to the restaurant, so check the WaterFire schedule
and make reservations pronto. (5/00)
HARBOURSIDE LOBSTERMANIA, Water Street, East Greenwich, (884-6363). This
seafood restaurant re-earns its reputation year after year, unlike the
waterfront eateries that get by on past performance and a good view. While its
name inspires thoughts of a culinary version of Crazy Harry's Used Car-rama, it
remains true that, as one customer remarked, "If you like lobster, this is the
place." The downstairs bar offers a light menu, although handicapped patrons
can order from the upstairs menu. The main dining room is refreshingly light
and airy. Appetizers include the usual clam bar favorites, with less obvious
options like scallops wrapped in bacon ($6.95). The calamari, served with a
side of marinara sauce, has a tasty herbed lemon sauce. The quahog chowder
($1.95/$2.95), made with broth instead of cream, briny and rich with chopped
clams, gets a thumbs up. Harbourside has nearly 20 beers and hard ciders, nine
wines by the glass and a short but choice list of bottles. Entrées come
with a salad bar ($5 by itself), a choice of red bliss, baked or French fries,
plus vegetable. The one-pound sweet and juicy lobster ($13.95), split and
perfectly broiled, has a good scallop and shrimp stuffing that tastes like Ritz
cracker crumbs, and is moistened with Chablis. The inexpensive deserts include
mud pie and strawberry cheesecake (each $3.50). The Harbourside deserves its
popularity. Now, if we can only officially re-christen it. (5/00)