[Sidebar] May 25 - June 1, 2000
[Food Reviews]
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The following listings have been distilled from recent full-length reviews; the date appearing at the end of each entry indicates the month and year of review. Hours, credit-card and liquor information are not included, so be sure to call ahead. And bear in mind that some menus change seasonally.

ANNIE'S, 176 Bellevue Ave., Newport, (849-6731). Annie's will stoke you full of good food and good vibes. Tucked into a slim, diner-shaped space, this breakfast and lunch spot carries the green theme of awning-shaded Bellevue Avenue storefronts inside to an elegant and relaxing effect. Menu highlights include the cook's choice quiche, made with fresh cream, eggs, cheeses, vegetables or meats, and served with a fruit cup or a cup of soup ($5.75), and Annie's Madness, a B&T on sourdough with a light cheese sauce ($4.50). The menu includes 15 omelets with interesting variations, such as chourico with tomatoes and peppers. The filling farmer's omelet ($6.95) is done just right, with fluffy egg batter, lots of tender veggies, and just the right amount of Swiss, American and mozzarella cheeses. Omelets are accompanied by steak-fry cut home fries that are crisp on the outside, with plenty of potato on the inside, and a hint of garlic on the surface, and a basket of two thick-cut slices of delicious Portuguese sweetbread with a square of coffee cake. The crow's nest, a Benedict with Annie's own delicious corned beef hash, has a sauce that, while not as lemony as most, has a good tang. Decaf and full-strength coffee carafes are pleasingly left at the table and the herbal tea selection is good. While the blueberry muffin doesn't quite measure up, a better choice is the fresh fruit cup, served in an old-fashioned sundae cup ($1.90). The next time you visit the Newport mansions, consider stoping in at Annie's.(5/00)

BELLA VISTA, 1 American Express Way, Providence (272-1040). While the former Boathouse has a new Italian name, menu and courtyard, it still has the same terrific view of Waterplace Park and WaterFire. The menu is extensive, with more than a half-dozen entrees each of seafood, meat, veal and poultry; a dozen pasta dishes; and four risotto variations. The gamberi alla Romana appetizer, three jumbo shrimp flamed table side and served with spinach and radicchio ($9.95), is delicious for those who like their shrimp a bit undercooked, and features a sweet Sambuca sauce, albeit one in which the anise flavor has evaporated. The earthy arugula salad, tossed in a vinaigrette and topped with roasted red peppers and kalamata olives, ($5.95) is a treat. The arborio rice in the risotto al pescatore ($17.95) entree had just the right degree of firmness, and the pleasant kick of the light tomato sauce didn't overwhelm the littlenecks, scallops, lobster meat, and baby shrimp. The dish could be improved, though, by using medium-sized shrimp and more lobster. The rollotini di pollo, although tasty, didn't seem spectacular enough to be a $19.95 entree. While $7.50 per glass for the chianti and chardonnay we had seemed steep for bland wines, Bella Vista is updating its wine list for its two full bars. Most of the desserts, including the tiramisu, are made by the skilled bakers at the Christopher Matthews deli in Smithfield, and a few specials, including the cherries jubilee, are flambeed table side. The best fired-up performances at Bella Vista, however, are the crackling bonfires that ring the pool next to the restaurant, so check the WaterFire schedule and make reservations pronto. (5/00)

HARBOURSIDE LOBSTERMANIA, Water Street, East Greenwich, (884-6363). This seafood restaurant re-earns its reputation year after year, unlike the waterfront eateries that get by on past performance and a good view. While its name inspires thoughts of a culinary version of Crazy Harry's Used Car-rama, it remains true that, as one customer remarked, "If you like lobster, this is the place." The downstairs bar offers a light menu, although handicapped patrons can order from the upstairs menu. The main dining room is refreshingly light and airy. Appetizers include the usual clam bar favorites, with less obvious options like scallops wrapped in bacon ($6.95). The calamari, served with a side of marinara sauce, has a tasty herbed lemon sauce. The quahog chowder ($1.95/$2.95), made with broth instead of cream, briny and rich with chopped clams, gets a thumbs up. Harbourside has nearly 20 beers and hard ciders, nine wines by the glass and a short but choice list of bottles. Entrées come with a salad bar ($5 by itself), a choice of red bliss, baked or French fries, plus vegetable. The one-pound sweet and juicy lobster ($13.95), split and perfectly broiled, has a good scallop and shrimp stuffing that tastes like Ritz cracker crumbs, and is moistened with Chablis. The inexpensive deserts include mud pie and strawberry cheesecake (each $3.50). The Harbourside deserves its popularity. Now, if we can only officially re-christen it. (5/00)

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