Gabriela's
Log cabin luxury in Narragansett
by Bill Rodriguez
945 Boston Neck Road, Narragansett, 789-1135
Open Tues-Sun, 4-10 p.m.
Major credit cards
Sidewalk access
When a veteran foodie recommends a restaurant to me, I sit up and listen, and
perhaps even salivate. So when the head waiter at our favorite continental
restaurant in South County told us he liked a new place that opened last
October, Gabriela's quickly appeared on our must-check-out list. The image of
Brett zipping across town on a break to satisfy a chicken melanzana jones was
droll inducement.
The building seems an unlikely spot for fine dining, outside of an episode of
Northern Exposure. Previous tenants have included a pancake house and a
steakhouse. Nowadays, the two-story log cabin has a pair of facing swans on the
door. Inside, leftover Valentine wreaths also declare the opportunity for
romantic intimacy and distract you from the lumber that they decorate. (You
also may consider the votive candle on each table as expressing your devotion
to your dining companion, if you wish, instead of to fine cuisine.)
The night we were at Gabriela's, the starry sky and light-bedecked Newport
bridge looked rather romantic from our vantage point at a window table at one
end of the bar (this view is also available from the upstairs level). We would
have appreciated the view from our distant table, even if the hostess didn't
come over -- as she did to three other couples -- to take us to the window and
point out the most unusual full moon I recall seeing, rising just over the
horizon as orange as a pumpkin.
All this without taking a bite. Or a sip (full bar, good wine list). Our first
bites were encouraging -- into light, freshly baked bread containing sunflower
seeds, dipped into a platter of red-pepper-flecked olive oil with some cheese
grated on top. An even more pleasant signature touch was Gabriela's version of
the Official State Appetizer. We didn't have any, but certainly will the next
time: Santa Fe calamari ($10.95), batter-fried and spicy, served in a blue corn
tortilla bowl with kitchen-made roasted corn citrus salsa. Chef Keith Thurber,
who designed the menu, lists restaurants from New Hampshire to Nantucket on his
résumé, plus a cooking stint in the Army while stationed in the
Southwest.
We shared the stuffed portabello ($8.95): four baby bellos, packed with a Ritz
cracker and ricotta blend with shrimp. They were surrounded by mesclun greens,
and a tangy chipotle and cilantro cream sauce that had just enough of the
roasted chili's smoky heat. The single large mushroom cap promised on the menu
would have grilled up even more succulently, but our waitress was quick to
announce the substitution. I indulged in a special of the day, a favorite of
mine -- baked onion soup ($6.95). I'm fussy about this, but was pleased by the
hearty stock and the well-browned gruyere topping.
I also like a good puttanesca sauce over linguini, and Gabriela's ($14.95) is
up there with the best I've enjoyed. Not too salty from the anchovy paste (I
could have used a bit more), the calamata olive halves burst into flavor amid
the plentiful lemony capers, strips of roasted red peppers, wild mushrooms and
chunks of plum tomato. My three tender pieces of chicken breast could have been
veal or fish at the same price, an option with the Marsala sauce as well. The
linguini was garlic herb, and interesting flavored pastas are also used in
other dishes, such as chili pepper penne in a baked vegetable dish ($13.95).
Johnnie chose what I would have had otherwise, the By the Bay Seafood Medley
($18.95). The scallops, shrimp and lobster were sautéed with restraint
and served in a delicious pesto cream sauce, with sun-dried tomatoes
complementing the other reds of the combination. Instead of having it over
pasta, she felt like having a side dish of white and wild rice. The billed
focaccia was merely grilled bread soaked with garlic butter, but it was
welcome. Thank heavens parsley is out of favor as a garnish, for we found both
our main dishes and the appetizer ringed by generous portions of mesclun
greens, and the sauces were all fit dressings.
For dessert we had a pricey but yummy chocolate torte ($6.95). The
full-flavored cake and icing were nicely presented within a circle of fudge and
fruit sauces. A pleasant farewell. For an even nicer introduction, you might
consider the six-wine dinner at Gabriela's, scheduled for Monday, March 13 at 6
p.m. It's $50 per person.