Hit the road

15 great spots for summer eats in New England

by Peter Kadzis

The joy of a summer road trip isn't just in the journey or in the destination -- it's also in stopping to eat. Here's a highly selective guide -- compiled over 20 years of New England travel -- to some mighty good places to stop and get some mighty good food. Some are worth a trip in themselves. Prices, except where noted, are low to moderate, and you can find most of these joints with a road map. Where directions are more complicated, we've spelled them out.

MAINE
1. Red's Eats
Wiscasset, Maine
It's smack on Route 1 as you drive through Wiscasset -- just before the bridge if you're heading north, just after the bridge if you're going south. The dilemma: what to order, the lobster roll or the crab roll? Bottom line: either. Some say Red's serves the best lobster roll in the region, a claim that's hard to dispute. Both the lobster and the crab versions are the essence of New England simplicity -- as is Red's itself. When you sit outside and chow down here, the air smells cleaner (because it is), the Red Sox seem to have a chance of winning the World Series (even if you know better), and those who love you seem to love you more. Probably because you've brought them here.
Red's Eats, Route 1, Wiscasset, Maine. Open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and on Sunday from noon to 6 p.m. On the menu: lobster roll ($11); crab roll ($6.50); hot dog ($1). Call (207) 882-6128.

Flo's Hot Dogs

2. Flo's Hot Dogs
York, Maine
There's nothing poetic about Flo's. It's a red shack that serves hot dogs. It seats a handful at best. Flo makes it about as difficult as possible to get served. There's no phone. Nonetheless, supplicants have been known to wait an hour to get inside. Flo's is open only for lunch, serving steamed hot dogs with Flo's special sauce. In an age when the brand name is king, Flo is the queen. Her place is so simple it must be seen to be believed. To philosophize: one dog is not enough, but four are too many.
Flo's Hot Dogs, eastern side of Route 1, York, Maine. Open six days a week from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. On the menu: hot dogs. No phone.

3. Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier
Kittery, Maine
Bring your own beer, wine, salad, and sundries. This place serves lobster in a setting that Ralph Lauren would pay a fortune to use for a fashion shoot, but the regulars would revolt if that ever happened. Oysters, cherrystones, and shrimp are available, but lobster is the main attraction. Don't wimp out: order a big one -- three pounds or more. (To get there: heading north on 103, go by the harbor and past the Sunoco station; a quarter-mile up, the road splits. Chauncey Creek Road goes right, and so should you.)
Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier, 16 Chauncey Creek Road, Kittery, Maine. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. On the menu: lobster (market price; currently $7.99 to $9.99 per pound); steamed mussels in wine and garlic ($7.99); lobster roll ($9.50); oysters or cherrystones ($6 per half-dozen). Call (207) 439-1030.

NEW HAMPSHIRE
4. Lindbergh's Crossing
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
Under its previous name, the Blue Strawberry, this was long one of the most popular and elegant restaurants in New England. The restaurant changed hands in 1995; the name is different, but so far the excellence remains. The menu is innovative but not overbearing, perhaps best described as Alsatian meets New American cuisine. The intimate upstairs bar, always crowded, makes the place hum. Both restaurant and bar have a full liquor license, but there's a strong focus on wine. Pricey but worth it; call for reservations a few days in advance.
Lindbergh's Crossing, 29 Ceres Street, Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Open Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., and on Friday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m. On the menu: seared rare tuna over white beans and capers ($9); clam chowder ($5); pepper-crusted salmon roulade ($17). Call (603) 431-0887.

5. Sullivan's
Rye Beach, New Hampshire
Be an American. Eat at Sullivan's. It's not much to look at from the outside, but it serves great big martinis, other drinks, and good food. Prime rib every Saturday night. Get there early, before the locals clean out the kitchen. Despite the meat-and-potatoes exterior, the kitchen shows definite signs of sensitivity: it might not be up to the standards of Dr. Frasier Crane and his brother Niles, but their father would love it. Has that big-screen sports thing going on. Classic jukebox: the Stones, Patsy Cline, Van Morrison. Billiards and a deck.
Sullivan's, 1667 Ocean Boulevard (Route 1A), Rye, New Hampshire. Open daily except Tuesdays, 11:30 to 1 a.m. On the menu: grilled pork sandwich with peppers and onions, $5.75; blackened chicken roll-up, $5.75; meat loaf dinner, $6.50; prime rib dinner, $10.95. Call (603) 433-9377.

MASSACHUSETTS
6. Maddie's Sail Loft
Marblehead, Massachusetts
Located in the heart of colonial Marblehead's Old Town, Maddie's is as convivial as an English pub. Sailors, socialites, tourists, and workers from the local boatyards all mingle in this unpretentious restaurant. Justifiably famous for its Bloody Marys, Maddie's may have the best drinks in town -- and in Marblehead, that's a serious compliment. As you'd expect in this oceanfront town, seafood dominates the menu. Maddie's keeps it simple: you can't go wrong with any of the broiled fish dishes. Over years of dining here, I've never had a bad meal. Chowders and fried seafood platters are bountiful. Come as you are. Dress runs toward jeans -- if you're wearing topsiders, you'd be considered dressed up.
Maddie's Sail Loft, 15 State Street, Marblehead, Massachusetts. Open for lunch (downstairs only) Monday through Saturday from 11:45 a.m. to 2 p.m., and on Sunday from noon to 4 p.m. Open for dinner (upstairs) Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. Bar open daily from 11:45 a.m. to 11 p.m. On the menu: fried shrimp ($9.95); fried clams ($13.95); prime rib on Fridays and Saturdays ($12.95); top sirloin ($12.95); Call (781) 631-9824.

7. Barking Crab
Boston, Massachusetts
For those of us who are too busy to travel -- or who don't have wheels -- there's one place in the city for New England-style summer outdoor eating: the Barking Crab, on the Fort Point Channel. The setting creates an interesting tension: after five or ten minutes at the Crab, cracking lobster in the salt air, you could swear you were on the seashore -- but look up and there's the Financial District only a couple hundred yards away. Recommended is the spicy fried calamari, a dish that's more subtle than it sounds. (After the squid is deep-fried, it is sautéed with garlic, hot pepperoncini, and white wine.) The sweet and spicy beer-batter shrimp are another delight, as are the Barking Crab cakes, which are seasoned with citrus and Tabasco and served with red pepper aïoli. All the old-time favorites are here, of course -- seafood platters, burgers, and a variety of fish of the day. Like so many roadside restaurants, the Crab has its own line of customized T-shirts and sweats.
The Barking Crab, 88 Sleeper Street, just over Northern Avenue bridge from downtown Boston. Dining room open Sunday and Monday from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Tuesday through Saturday until 10 p.m. Bar open Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to midnight, and on Sunday from noon to midnight. On the menu: spicy fried calamari ($7.95); Barking Crab cakes ($8.95); lobster roll ($12.95); fish and chips ($9.50). Lobster and crab entrées, market price. Call (617) 426-2722.

8. Millway Fish and Lobster Market
Barnstable, Massachusetts
People on the Upper Cape would just as soon keep this one to themselves. Millway Fish looks like a typical Cape Cod fish market with a small takeout business, but don't be fooled: the cuisine is as sophisticated as anything you'd find in a top-notch city restaurant. The shellfish sausage is fresh, rich, and mildly spiced; at $17 a pound, it's not cheap, but it's worth every penny. Check out the lobster quiche, seafood lasagna, and (if you're a traditionalist) fish and chips. This is primarily a takeout market, but there are a few picnic tables for eating on the premises. As at many fish joints, prices vary with the market. (To get there, take Route 6 to Exit 6, then follow it to Route 132. When you get to a traffic light take a left onto Phinney's Lane, which turns into Millway.)
Millway Fish and Lobster Market, 275 Millway, Barnstable, Massachusetts. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Closed Monday. On the menu: shellfish sausage ($17 a pound); fish and chips ($8.25); seafood lasagna (market price); lobster quiche (market price). Call (508) 362-2760.

9. Gina's by the Sea
North Dennis, Massachusetts
New England's chilly reserve melts in the Mediterranean ambiance of Gina's. It's a family-style restaurant with more than a dash of sophistication, and everyone, even a first-time visitor, is treated like a regular. Once the summer gets going, Gina's is open seven days a week (until Labor Day, when it's Thursday through Sunday only). Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m., but get there early, because after eight the place is mobbed. Highly recommended: antipasto, scampi, and chicken Dijon. Mussels marinara and a glass of wine make for a great snack at the bar. You can smell the ocean, hear the sea gulls, and listen to the crashing waves as you dine Italian-style. (To get there, take Route 6 to Exit 8 [Station Avenue], and follow to Route 6A to Dennis. At the fork in the road, go left toward the water and follow signs for Gina's.)
Gina's by the Sea, 134 Taunton Avenue, North Dennis, Massachusetts. Open daily from 5 to 10 p.m. until Labor Day; after Labor Day, open Thursday through Sunday only. On the menu: mussels marinara ($8.95); chicken Dijon ($13.95); scampi à la Gina ($18.95); Mrs. Riley's rum cake ($4.95). Call (508) 385-3213.

10. Grumpy's East Dennis, Massachusetts
Grumpy's is a classic. Prices are cheap, portions are big, and you can order breakfast all day long. Omelets are terrific and eggs Benedict are very good, but check the chalkboards for a revolving series of daily specials including crab cakes, cod cakes, baked beans, and hearty split-pea soup. There is a definite Portuguese influence at work here; a first-time visitor might call it multicultural. The folks at Grumpy's, however, would call it plain old good food. Can accommodate traveling groups and families, as well as the single traveler.
Grumpy's, 1401 Route 6A (Main Street), East Dennis, Massachusetts. Open daily from 6 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. On the menu: eggs Benedict ($5.95); hash and cheese omelet ($4.50); scallop roll ($7.95); fish and chips ($6.50). Call (508) 385-2911.

RHODE ISLAND

Haven Bros. Diner

11. Haven Bros. Diner
Providence, Rhode Island
Every evening at five, this mobile dining car -- the oldest diner in the country, according to local lore -- pulls up to Kennedy Plaza in Providence and opens for business. There are three stools inside, but most food is consumed on the curb. It stays open until around 3 or 4 a.m., drawing cabbies, cops, clubgoers, bikers, and diner freaks. The lobster roll with celery salt and a side order of kidney beans is a cult classic; so are the hot dogs, the double burgers, the chicken sandwiches, and "coffee milk" (a Rhode Island staple). An unmistakable air of the 1940s hovers around Haven Brothers; eating there makes you feel like a character in a film noir classic.
Haven Bros. Diner, Fulton and Dorrance Streets, at Kennedy Plaza, Providence, Rhode Island. Open Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 3 a.m., and on Friday and Saturday until 4 a.m. Closed Sunday. On the menu: cheeseburger ($2); lobster roll ($5); French fries ($2); chili, $2; milkshakes ($2.50). No phone.

12. The Hot Club
Providence, Rhode Island
The Hot Club is located on a lot on the Providence waterfront, near the city's hurricane barrier, in a setting that's delightfully incongruous; it is surrounded by old industrial buildings, many of which have been converted to other uses. The 15-year-old bar boasts an expansive deck, a friendly crowd, wonderful bartenders, and a quality jukebox. There's also a small but appealing menu; the food is simple, but the ingredients are top notch. The bar has an unusually wide selection of rums and serves Trinity IPA beer, as well as a variety of bottled summer brews. Avoid Saturday nights, unless you enjoy wall-to-wall people. Docking available for parties arriving by boat.
The Hot Club, 575 South Water Street, Providence, Rhode Island. Open Sunday through Thursday from noon to 1 a.m., and on Friday and Saturday from noon to 2 a.m. On the menu: chili dog ($1.75); chili burger ($3); sausage sandwich ($2.75); chicken breast sandwich ($6.75); chicken on a stick ($3.75); grilled zucchini ($1.75). Call (401) 861-9007.

13. Olympia Tea Room
Watch Hill, Rhode Island
Watch Hill is a village in the town of Westerly, fast by the Connecticut border. It's a summer colony for the wealthy, but public parking and a couple of large commercial lots make its shops and dramatic beaches available to the public. The Olympia Tea Room (motto: "Famous not fancy since 1916") is both sophisticated and old-fashioned. If you're lucky enough to get a window seat, you can watch the sun set across Naragansett Bay while you dine on fried oysters with wilted spinach and a roasted-corn salsa. Breakfast and lunch prices are moderate; dinner is more expensive, with entrées typically running between $7 and $18. Great martinis. (To get there, take Exit 1 off I-95 and follow it to Route 78. Take that to the end, and follow signs to Watch Hill and Bay Street. It's about eight miles from 95 to Watch Hill.)
Olympia Tea Room, 74 Bay Street, Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. On the menu: baby red potato salad with gorgonzola, red onions, apples, walnuts, and olive oil and sweet vinegar dressing ($7.50); fried oysters on wilted spinach with roasted-corn salsa ($7.95); littlenecks and sausages on linguine ($15.95). Call (401) 348-8211.

Ocean House

14. Ocean House
Watch Hill, Rhode Island
If Woody Allen were filming a seaside flick, Ocean House would be a suitable setting. It's a huge, rambling 19th-century hotel perched on a hill. The food and drinks are good, but there are no surprises (baked lobster, steak, chicken); the really appealing thing is the view. On a clear day you can see Montauk, as well as Block and Fisher's Islands, and time seems to stop while you watch the sun and the surf. Within a few minutes of taking your seat on the deck, you feel as though you've been coming here for years. The season is short -- this year, the restaurant doesn't open to non-guests till June 26, and it closes the day after Labor Day. (To get to Watch Hill, follow directions for Olympia Tea Room, above.)
Ocean House, 2 Bluff Avenue, Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Bar open daily from noon to 1 a.m. Restaurant open daily from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Prices: $5.95 to $12.95 for lunch, $10.95 to $18.95 for dinner. Call (401) 348-8161.

15. The Provender
Tiverton, Rhode Island
Over the years, the Provender has a attracted the attention of some of the nation's leading food magazines. It's well off the beaten path, which adds to its charm -- Tiverton itself, which provides a gateway to Little Compton, is a secret locals would like to keep. Try a "Scarlet Letter" sandwich -- that's turkey with tarragon mayo, cranberry sauce, and alfalfa sprouts -- or the "Land Shark," which is smoked seafood salad with horseradish spread, tomatoes, and onion. Bread is baked fresh on the premises, and the homemade cookies alone would justify the trip. (To get there, take Route 24 south to the Fish Road exit. Go left at the end onto Fish Road, then take a right onto Route 177. Take a left onto Main Road at the only traffic light. Provender is on the right in a gray Victorian building.)
The Provender, 3883 Main Road, Tiverton, Rhode Island. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. On the menu: the Scarlet Letter ($5.25); the Land Shark ($5.25) Call (401) 624-8096.

Research for this story was provided by Rob McKeown.