Providence's Best Food and Drink Find out what our editors consider Providence's Best

BEST RIDICULOUSLY CHEAP TWO-FER

They donFƒ’t pay you to eat here, but for a commercial enterprise, they come perilously close. The breathlessly named Caspita! offers a $20 two-person special on Wednesday and Thursday from 5 to 7 p.m. — with a bottle of wine that is no worse than many served with more expensive slow-night specials elsewhere. They can offer a couple of entrées with wine at a price that looks like a typo because they leave it up to you to order a $2 salad or regular price appetizer and/or dessert. But this is the place to go if your appetite is as modest as your budget. As a bonus, chef Bill Andrews has another surprise for you: food that’s actually quite good. The pasta is al dente and the tomato sauce tangy in this self-described "Italian Eatery." And the Portuguese baked cod over mashed potatoes is both ingenious and delicious. 567 South County Trail (Route 2), Exeter, (401) 295-2900.

BEST UNDERSTATED CHOCOLATE DESSERT

You don’t expect much from bread pudding. When designed perfunctorily, it’s an afterthought, a few slices of stale bread cubed up and reconstituted with milk, maybe lifting an eyebrow of interest with a dash of nutmeg. The dessert can be perilously close to compost. That’s part of the reason that choirs of seraphs and cherubim rise in ahhing chorus when you take a bite of the chocolate bread pudding at downstairs, the showtime bistro beneath 2nd Story Theatre. The ingredients and preparation may be more complex, but chef John Michael Richardson seems to have transmuted two junk foods into gold. It may not be Hershey’s chocolate syrup over Wonder Bread, but the Comfort Food Effect is the same. It goes down like a chocolate milkshake. Seven bucks worth of smiles, with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and pile of whipped cream on the side. 28 Market Street, Warren, (401) 247-4200.

BEST ORIENTAL OASIS

Lately it seems the east side of Providence has become the new south side in terms of consistent police log drama, and the four-block radius around Camp Street has long been a hotbed of sketchy activity, but even thugs get hungry. A decent restaurant has finally opened up shop on busy Doyle Avenue (a busy route intersecting Hope and North Main streets). Asian Fusion is the third tenant in five years to offer authentic Chinese cuisine. The tiny space (10 chairs and three tables) earns its namesake by offering Thai, Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Japanese maki selections at economical, neighborhood-friendly prices. As with any Chinese takeout stand, the lunch special is usually the way to go. Old standby combos like the spicy chicken pad Thai ($4.50) and the Thai-influenced beef with lemongrass ($4.75) arrive with a generous choice of fried or steamed rice, chicken wings or fingers, and crab Rangoon gratis. Equally generous portions fill the extensive dinner menu (most combos only $2 more), and the a la carte maki offers a mean spicy tuna maki ($3.75), tender marinated unagi (eel) ($3.75), and a delicious spider roll ($5.95) with soft-shell crab and julienne vegetables. 116 Doyle Avenue, Providence, (401) 274-2489.

BEST REASON TO GET OUT OF BED ON SUNDAY

Or, actually, any day but Monday, with breakfast at Norey’s as your goal (8 a.m. to 2 p.m.). Omelets are huge and fluffy, done to your specifications (jalapenos are an unusual add-in), or chosen from Norey’s own combos: Mexican, topped with homemade salsa; Greek, with spinach and feta; "meat lover’s," with ham, sausage, and bacon; or, at the other extreme, "Norey’s egg white omelet" (with suggested tomatoes, onions, cheese, and peppers). You can choose grits instead of home fries to accompany any egg dish. Or you can turn your attention to the griddle cakes, since real maple syrup sits on each table, along with real flowers, seasonally from Norey’s garden. For a different take on maple, and a great nostalgia hit, go with "Mom’s Hot Maypo." But if none of these items sings your tune, and it’s not Sunday, jump to the lunch menu for salads, soups, and sandwiches, including another blast-from-the-past: a Fluffernutter! 156 Broadway, Newport, (401) 847-4971.

BEST OFF-THE-BEATEN-RECIPE CALAMARI

Rhode Island diners are tough. They fight back their fears and continue eating like nothing is wrong. No matter that the sight of squid on a plate induces sweat-popping daymares of Captain Nemo struggling in the clutches of his humongous nemesis in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, we order the calamari. Nevertheless, some restaurants take pity on those traumatized in childhood by the Disney film. They make a point of offering a version sans tentacles. At West Deck, you get sautéed rings only, like a pile of "OK" hand gestures. But that’s only the start. The dish is prepared with black currants, allspice, and almonds — they look like slices of garlic — all over a mound of hummus, surrounded by wedges of pita. Delicious. Go and take a break from acting brave. 1 Waites Wharf, Newport, (401) 847-3610.

BEST ACCENT ON BARBECUE

Enough of this arguing about whether the North Carolina vinegared version or St. Louis style with sauce is better. Why don’t we all just get up right now and go to Lemi’s BBQ, and they’ll tell us how it’s done. You might want to brush up your Cantonese first, though, since owner Yuk Lam Yip learned how to do it in Hong Kong. At Lemi’s, meat is cooked in an upright box rather than on a grill or spit, and there is much more variety to preparations than in the States. Nothing dainty here. Most of the meats are hacked into chunks, bones and all. Variations abound. There are five chicken preparations, for example, from "salty roast" to honey-roasted thighs. Any place that has, amidst untranslated listings for the cognoscenti, a wall sign encouraging "Whole Pig By Order" knows its meat-happy clientele. 38 Pontiac Avenue, Providence, (401) 467-8686.

BEST REVOLTING MEALS

The food is okay at the Cuban Revolution, so they can be pretty good-natured about variations on the sophomoric wordplay the name of the place invites. (And since they serve the traditional shredded beef dish ropa vieja, which translates to "old clothes," it’s hard to pass up a wisecrack.) The Cuban sandwiches are prepared not in a grinder roll but authentic Havana street style, the meats and cheese and condiments in grill-pressed sweet bread and served with plantain chips rather than Lay’s. But the trippiest aspect of the place is that the revolutionary theme is adhered to so strictly that they have a shop a few doors down that sells Che T-shirts and PBS video documentaries on the Bay of Pigs. This year the restaurant got a beer and wine license, so you can morosely sip at a sidewalk table and look like a disgruntled old CIA hand. 149 Washington Street, Providence, (401) 331-8829.

BEST PLACE FOR PISCIVORES

What the world needs — it’s there somewhere on the list — is more theme restaurants. Yes, they can be so self-conscious that you know that interior decorating rather than cuisine is the first love of the proprietor. But sometimes they are spot-on, as with the seafood restaurant Big Fish. A jellyfish — no, a chandelier — hangs above the dining room, transparent tubing dangling. The signature big fish hanging behind a suspended picture frame at one wall is a thoughtful improvement on actual piscine anatomy, a cutaway helpfully revealing surreal details you may have long suspected. Fanciful specialty drinks pitch in, such as the Midori-green Electric Eel and the martini with a gummy fish instead of an olive. Chef John Elkay, of Ten Prime Steak & Sushi, is at work here, so the seafood on the plates is as engaging as the sea life on the walls. 370 Richmond Street, Providence, (401) 751-FISH.

BEST HOPEFUL SIGN THAT WORLD PEACE IS POSSIBLE

In this day and age of tribalism, where Serb won’t speak to Croat and Sunni and Shiite bop each other with Korans, it’s encouraging to see Opa doing well. It’s a Lebanese bistro on Federal Hill, that formidable enclave of Italian eateries. (A Japanese restaurant there doesn’t count — that’s just a refuge for lost, hungry Volvo drivers who stray into the neighborhood.) Chef/proprietor Joseph Karan and wife Aline have been tempting the calamari and alfredo crowd with what they call their Lebanese Evening, where for $30 per person you get a banquet of a dozen or so chef-chosen treats. Lebanese cuisine is heavily French-influenced, and Karan studied at the Cordon Bleu in Toronto, so you’re in good hands. And, not for nuthin’, he creates a flavor-intense baba ghanoush that makes caponata-lovers weep. 244 Atwells Avenue, Providence, (401) 351-8282.

BEST CURE FOR TINGLING TEETH

Come on, admit it, surf ’n’ turf orderer. That jumbo shrimp next to your slab of beef is a disappointment, a stand-in. What you really want to see lying there next to the parsley is another slab of beef; but that would be wrong. "No, no, no," the pinch-mouthed schoolmarm in the head squeaks, "Bad carnivore! Sit in corner! Suck this soybean!" Get a grip. Lighten up. Go out and order the turf ’n’ turf at Dylan’s. It’s $19.95 for an eight-ounce Black Angus sirloin and a chicken breast, with a choice of seven sauces and seasonings. OK, the menu doesn’t offer a burger or filet mignon next to the sirloin outright, but the item is a pretty blatant wink-wink suggestion to whisper such a request to your waitperson. Ask for a private room. Rub a cheek against the medium-rare perfection. Dig in. 2 Canal Street, Westerly, (401) 596-4075.

BEST COORDINATION OF CONDIMENT AND DÉCOR

It’s not an immediate connection, but once you see it, it sticks. The walls at Haruki East are wasabi green; there’s no other way to describe it. Wasabi is the ubiquitous condiment for sushi, its sharp horseradish sting a perfect foil to the delicate seafood, vegetables, and rice that make up the sushi and maki offerings at this sister restaurant to the popular Cranston establishment. Seafood dominates the 30-plus a la carte sushi choices, ranging from monkfish pate to flying fish roe, from surf clams to sea urchins, with 30 more maki offerings (the rice-rollups with dark green nori around them). Once again, the décor reflects the menu, with varying shades of blue accents and wavy lines, and even an underwater mural. So if the colors don’t whet your appetite from the get-go, try one of the maki and you’ll be hooked! 172 Wayland Avenue, Providence, (401) 223-0332.

BEST TASTE OF TUSCANY

Tuscan Tavern encompasses all things Italia, from the warmly romantic interior to the multitude of authentic Old World land and sea offerings (along with an extensive wine list). Antipasti favorites include Zuppa Vongole, a large bowl of littlenecks in a garlic-infused champagne broth, and Spiedo Mista, marinated skewers of shrimp and swordfish over greens. More than three dozen entrées can usually be enjoyed, from a dozen pasta selections (the Gnocchi Alforno and Lobster Ravioli with pink vodka sauce are standouts) to the Scarfaro, a one-pound veal T-bone, and the mammoth yet tender 18-ounce Tuscan Prime Rib. A personal favorite is Nero’s Land & Sea, a sumptuous combo of rosemary-infused beef tips topped with a luscious lobster and brandy cream sauce. The Tavern also boasts the largest wood-burning brick oven in southern New England, the home for their renowned wood-grilled pies (as well as calzones) like the Uffizi, with prosciutto, soppressata, roasted peppers, and fresh mozzarella, and the Cipolle, with carmelized onions, scallions, basil, and a creamy four-cheese blend. Pull grandma away from the stove and try the early-bird Piccolo menu for a relaxed Sunday afternoon dinner. 632 Metacom Avenue, Warren, (401) 247-9200.

BEST BITE-SIZED LOBSTUHS

Hall’s Seafood on the Bristol/Warren line has been serving the red, white, and blue trail and beyond for more than 26 years. Owners Tom and Emily Hall are quite the tandem, as he catches all the lobster and she preps their legendary shrimp, with a taste and texture closer to a lobster rather than the typically limp and tasteless shellfish found on supermarket cocktail platters. Hall’s shrimp arrive from the South, and rather than simply sell thawed, pre-cooked shrimp, the Halls take the time and painstaking effort of cooking and hand-peeling hundreds daily. An absolute steal at $16 per pound, Hall’s Seafood takes the ho-hum presentation of cocktail shrimp to another level. Pick up a jar of their homemade spicy cocktail sauce and it’s officially a party. Of course, the Halls also sell just about everything else the ocean has to offer, and the shrimp are just one of many reasons to hit the East Bay for some of Li’l Rhody’s freshest seafare. Closed Mondays. 8 Turner Street, Warren, (401) 245-0225.

BEST BARBECUE BANQUET

Is carnevale in Rio for carnivores, with happily semi-draped beauties merely a thematic afterthought? You’d be forgiven for rethinking the flesh-fest priorities of Brazilians after visiting Casa Brasil, a traditional churrascaria barbecue restaurant. For $18.99, not only do you get endless treks to the steam table, which is full of stews, seafood preparations, and — be polite and humor them — vegetable side dishes, but someone also comes by with a skewer from which to slice or fork off various meats, from turkey breast wrapped in bacon, through lime-marinated pork, to beef, beef, beef. Don’t overlook some of the other less protein-packed traditional items, such as salpicao, cold chicken salad that contains fried potato sticks for crunch. The rodizio procedure has you served and served again until you turn over a marker from green to red — or, presumably, cry out, "Tio!" 543 North Broadway, East Providence, (401) 434-8500.

BEST ROUTE TO PARADISE

When you get through the gate at Café Paradiso, order the meze platter, and you’re on your way. This generous appetizer has fava bean dip; tzatziki, a heavy-on-the-garlic cucumber/yogurt dip; fried zucchini patties; tiny phyllo-wrapped spinach pies; cocktail meatballs; lemony-tart eggplant salad; lots of feta chunks, olives, and pita triangles. It is, indeed, a heavenly smorgasbord. The rest of the menu has Italian, Portuguese, and Greek possibilities, but how could you not stay with the Greek theme after that platter? The shrimp saganachi is topped with broiled feta; lamb dishes are roasted lamb, marinated and grilled chops and shish kabobs, the latter served with plenty of lemon and tzatziki. And the baklava is truly celestial, dripping with walnuts and almonds, not the pistachios prevalent in Turkish or Armenian pastry. 1150 Oaklawn Avenue, Cranston, (401) 223-6025.

BEST SALAD INVENTED FROM LEFTOVERS

Legend has it that Bob Cobb, owner of Hollywood’s Brown Derby, was prowling through the restaurant’s fridge one night in ’37, looking for a midnight snack, when he threw together the first Cobb salad: lettuce, avocado, cold chicken breast, blue cheese, and a light vinaigrette, topped with crisp bacon, snitched from a distracted cook. West Bay Gourmet has revived this once wildly popular salad and made it the star of its deli offerings. Served with a hunk of fresh baguette, the "chicken Cobb salad" at West Bay is swooned over by regulars. It does, however, have stiff competition in the Thai beef salad, with a ginger-soy dressing. Other customer favorites are the chicken and black bean burrito; the rare roast beef wrap with smoked cheddar; the ham and brie on a warm croissant; and the portobello club, on focaccia, spread with a tapenade mayo. Save room for West Bay’s homemade brownies and giant chocolate chip cookies — they’re worth every carb! 889 Boston Neck Road, Narragansett, (401) 789-WBAY.

BEST PEOPLE-WATCHING AT THE BEACH

Take a seat on the deck of Amalfi and watch the world go by. In the heat of summer or on an early spring or fall evening, having a meal or a drink in the "outdoor dining room" of this restaurant gives you a refreshing ocean breeze (Narragansett Town Beach is just across the street) and a live-action surfing film. But Amalfi doesn’t coast on its view. Chef Gene Allsworth, formerly of Trieste, touches many Mediterranean bases with imagination and finesse: pork osso bucco; lamb saltimbocca; Tuscan veal stew with spinach gnocchi; and, in keeping with previous Spanish incarnations in this space, a paella with chicken, shrimp, mussels, and chorizo. Homemade desserts are decadent and delicious. Wraparound windows on the indoor dining room afford a great beach overlook any time of year, and the surfers are still there in the winter! 1 Beach Street, Narragansett, (401) 792-3999.

BEST FUNGAL FANTASIA

The most satisfying foods are often the simplest. Fusion cuisine can be fun, and unfamiliar ethnic dishes can be an adventure, but when you want the comfort of home-cooked food, stick with the basics. At La Rosa, the funghi al funghetta proves the point. Three kinds of mushrooms — shiitakes, portobellos, and button — are sautéed with plenty of fresh garlic and herbs. The aroma alone could fill you up. But La Rosa provides warm homemade garlic buns, the better to sop up the delicious broth exuded by the mushrooms, which are themselves tender and toothsome (the shiitakes), hearty and meaty (the portobellos), and fragrant and flavorful (the buttons). Mushrooms find their way into many other special dishes at La Rosa: veal and chicken marsalas; chicken cacciatore; chicken or veal selvagio, with wild mushrooms, pine nuts and sun-dried tomatoes; and veal piselli al funghi with shiitakes, portobellos and straw mushrooms. Mangia funghi! 335 Newport Avenue, East Providence, (401) 431-5252.

BEST UNDERGROUND LEGEND

Though this quintessential Italian eatery in the cellar of the Sons of Italy Lodge has changed hands over the years, Spirito’s has kept the home fires bright, with old-fashioned recipes (fried smelts, squid sauce, cannellini beans over bruschetta), old-fashioned doses of fresh garlic and old-fashioned prices (pasta with meatballs, sausage or eggplant parm, with soup or salad, under $10; lunch portions start at $5.95). Customer favorites include the homemade stuffies; the veal spitzatta with peas and mushrooms; the giant, tasty meatballs; the shrimp scampi; the chicken and broccoli aglio e olio. The low ceilings, white latticed room dividers, and oversized Tudoresque chairs give Spirito’s the feel of a rec room from the ’50s which, in a way, it still is: culinary recreation. You could set up a pool with friends to see how long it takes to eat your way through Spirito’s menu — it’s cheaper than a trip to Foxwoods! 99 Hicks Street, East Providence, (401) 434-4435.

BEST THING TO HAPPEN TO AN OLIVE

It’s one thing for those eccentric Southerners to serve up French-fried pickles, but it’s another thing to discover the newest trendy pub food from Manhattan — batter-fried olives — right here in Li’l Rhody. Fratelli’s of Fenner Hill certainly put itself on the food map with this item. These are large green Sicilian olives, stuffed with cheese (how do they do that?), dipped in a light batter (how do they get it to stick on?), and fried. The cheese melts, the olives get a wee bit warm, the whole effect is scrumptious. Fratelli’s shrimp Giovanni is also worth the trip, with roasted red peppers and lots of Italian ham complementing a half-dozen shrimp. They also do just fine with other seafood, including scrod Venezia, baked with spinach, mushrooms, and provolone. And, of course, they’d get run out of the state if they didn’t have a mean selection of pastas, including homemade lasagna. 33 Wheeler Lane (off Route 3), Hope Valley, (401) 539-8000.

BEST BAGELS ON COLLEGE HILL

What to do when you’re a successful small business swamped with college kids around the clock? Open another one about a quarter-mile away. Such is the case with the wildly popular Bagel Gourmet Ole on Thayer Street, the first offshoot of the bustling Bagel Gourmet on Brook Street. Gourmet Ole offers the same tasty bagels, pricey lox, and throngs of college kids in flip-flops fighting off hellish weather and hangovers with potent java and breakfast burritos that’ll save the day for under five bucks (the $2 bag of chips and fresh salsa is also worthy of props). The second outpost also possesses the same problems, though — it’s understaffed and always crowded. But we’ll fight the lunchtime rush any day for one of their bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches. 228 Thayer Street, Providence, (401) 331-1311.

BEST DEEP-FRIED CAULIFLOWER

Country Inn in Warren is well-known for generous portions and exceptional service. And with the majority of their clientele filling the senior citizen demographic, it damn well better be. But even the most ornery blue-hair patron can’t complain about the Inn’s comfort food, with at least 20 (!) daily specials, including a lobster roll ($13.95) that some insist is the best in the state. And the price never fluctuates regardless of the season. The Chicken Sorrentina is a decadent heart-stopper, topped with mozzarella, prosciutto, ricotta, and homemade tomato sauce. But one daily special stands out — the Black Forest Sirloin ($10.95) arrives fit to feed two, with a giant cut kicked up with a mustard and red wine reduction with mushrooms and asparagus. And if that’s not enough to put grandma into a food coma, all entrees are accompanied by salad and soup (the homemade chowder is available every day) and a platter of pasta or potato and vegetable. And we dare you to identify the surprisingly delicious deep-fried cauliflower, which resembles a fat jalapeno popper. Plus, the sharp service makes the Country Inn one of the better holiday dining spots in Rhode Island. 382 Market Street, Warren, (401) 245-8138.

BEST INDOOR PICNIC

That metaphor has nothing to do with ants or rustic furniture or licking your fingers after eating cold fried chicken. But it has everything to do with the way the outdoors flows into the dining rooms at Castle Hill, as the sun’s waning rays gild the edges of wine glasses and turn chandelier teardrops into rainbow-filled prisms; as the ever-moving waters of Newport Harbor, Narragansett Bay, and the wide Atlantic sweep around three sides of the windows in the aptly-named Sunset Room; as seagulls dive and whirl, silhouetted against the blue-black darkness just after sunset. But the food — no, it couldn’t be called picnic food. Relying on seasonally fresh ingredients, chef Casey Riley creates spectacular dishes, such as rack of lamb with acorn squash bread pudding or a venison chop with roasted sweet potatoes or monkfish with a smoked bacon and crab hash. None of those, nor the scrumptious made-to-order dessert soufflés, would translate to a picnic. Ocean Avenue, Newport, (401) 849-3800.

BEST NORTHERN ITALIAN IN NORTHERN RHODE ISLAND

The old mill city of Woonsocket boasts one of Rhode Island’s finest Italian joints. Gian Carlo’s Ristorante is more than enough reason to occasionally escape Federal Hill. Head honcho Gian Carlo Iannuccilli oversees an aromatic open-air kitchen that will tease the taste buds, with hints of his native Bologna across the menu. Carpaccio is a wonderful way to get things going, with thin-sliced filet mignon finished with baby greens, Parmigiano Reggiano, and capers. And vegetarians will appreciate the Rollatini di Melanzana, fried eggplant rolled with buffalo mozzarella, sauce, and kalamata olives. Primi or pasta courses include the Capellini di Mare, Farfalle Salsicia with veal sausage and fresh escarole, and the cheesy Agnolotti con Spinaci with a serious gorgonzola cream sauce. More than a dozen beef and fowl entrees include Agnello alla Griglia, a one-pound grilled rack of lamb baked with an herb goat cheese hazelnut crust, Pollo e Gamberi alla Griglia pairing chicken and shrimp topped with a delicious arugula pesto, and the Tony Soprano-sized Carne Miste, an array of grilled meats that include a pork chop, filet mignon, and veal sausage — an absolute steal at $19.95. And any of the eight in-house desserts provide a perfect cap to an exquisite meal at Gian Carlo’s. 153 Hamlet Avenue, Woonsocket, (401) 765-3711.

BEST REALLY AWFUL AWFUL PLAY ON WORDS

Our beloved Newport Creamery began in 1928 as a wholesale milk business. The Creamery survived the depression and officially opened shop in 1949. But fast food and crappy "family-oriented" restaurant franchises have left the Creamery out in the cold, forcing the company to close some doors when they declared bankruptcy three years ago. The company was rescued in December 2001 and though there are only 11 stores remaining in Li’l Rhody (and two in Massachusetts), stumbling upon a Newport Creamery means pulling in for an Awful Awful ($2.99) and, yes if you drink three you still get one free (sort of like Fear Factor for the lactose intolerant). Everyone has a personal favorite concoction — coffee with jimmies, chocolate with bananas, etc. And trying to compete with drive-thru coffee conglomerates, the new menu offers Awful Awful With Attitude ($4.29) like the Cafinator and Oreo Ozone and the Outrageous version ($3.39), with suspect flavors like Cappuccino Crunch and Choc O’Nutter. Other new and revised menu items include the frightening Holy Cow club ($8.29), 16 ounces of cow covered in cheese and bacon. And their famous patty melt was re-dubbed the Burger In the Rye ($5.49). And if that isn’t enough to make Holden Caulfield cringe, their Wb site inquires, "Rye not try one?" Ouch. Check the phone booke or go to www.newportcreamery.com for locations.

BEST TURKISH DELIGHT

Though the menu runs around the eastern Mediterranean basin, the emphasis at Bay Leaves is on Turkish dishes, in keeping with the background of its owners, Veysel and Kamera Kosereisoglu. There are Turkish pizzas (small, football-shaped, called pides); a reddish-purple sausage called soujouk, used on the pizzas and on top of penne; wood-grilled lamb; cured beef (pastirma); and a wonderful pastry called kunefe. Many of the entrees have a Middle Eastern link — the bright tastes of lemon, olive oil, and fresh oregano are prevalent. And Bay Leaves does a namesake dish that skewers swordfish pieces with bay leaves. But the most significant element of this cuisine is the wood-burning hearth oven, from whence come the pizzas, the shrimp baked with feta in a clay pot, the smoky roasted eggplant, and even the kunefe. This not-too-sweet dessert has ricotta and fresh mozzarella with shredded phyllo dough and a light honey syrup on top, baked until crispy and melting. Quite Turkishly delightful. 8220 Post Road, Wickford, (401) 667-7225.

BEST GREEK YIN AND YANG AT A PIZZERIA

Take one spinach pie in a thin pizza-dough crust, filled with spinach, cheese, and your choice of add-ons. Bake until melting. Then open it up sideways and stuff it with a Greek salad that includes feta and Kalamata olives. Mmmm-mmm. It’s cold and hot, crunchy and chewy, tart (from the dressing), and mellow (from the cheese). Dee-lish. And a bargain of a meal at $7.75, almost too much to finish. As are any of Campanella’s 17 varieties of award-winning calzones, endless pizza variations (with white, whole wheat, and seven-grain crusts), and mix-and-match pasta dinners (with salad and homemade bread). The pizza Nicholas is another Greek-inspired favorite, covered with an olive oil-and-garlic sauce and then sautéed eggplant, artichoke hearts, roasted red peppers, mozzarella, and feta cheeses. But the restaurant remains Italian to the core — check out the hot oven sandwiches, parmigiana variations, the meatball calzone, and the house-made garlic bread with cheese and tomato. 930 Oaklawn Avenue, Cranston, (401) 943-3500.

BEST BLUE-COLLAR CRUSTACEAN

The Crow’s Nest has been serving family-friendly prices and hefty, piping-hot portions since its days as a meatball sandwich shack a half-century ago. The fried clam and scallop platter ($11.20) is the best in town, along with their famous lobster club ($12.50), perfect in its simplicity. Request a side of mashed potatoes and receive a mountain of spuds slathered in brown gravy. The seafood dishes share top billing with such surprisingly authentic Italian dishes, from the classic chicken or veal parm ($10.20) to homemade red and white clam sauce ($8.20) and a garlicky ziti aglio e olio ($7.20). Other advantageously priced selections include Delmonico and sirloin specials, the old-timer’s favorite liver and onions ($8.20) and, just in case your cholesterol level is lacking, the deadly and delicious Chicken Barbara ($10.20) — a deep-fried boneless breast smothered in melted mozzarella, bacon, and brown gravy. Angioplasty sold separately. TheCrow’s nest is open seven days from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; call-ahead seating is recommended on weekends. 288 Arnold’s Neck Drive, Warwick, (401) 732-6575; www.eatatcrowsnest.com

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BEST MIDWEEK TREAT

So the price went up a measly five bucks — a Wednesday night dinner for two at Olives is still a no-brainer. Grab a cozy table for two or pull up a chair at the bar and let our man Frosty whip up one of their signature concoctions. The two-for-$34.95 deal includes a round of libations, an appetizer, entrées, and one of their visually tantalizing desserts. And unlike some of the advertised "twofer" spots, Olives doesn’t skimp on the portions, and the dinner menu offers plenty of options and subsequent reasons to return. Stick around and the lights dim while live jazz and a small, open-air corner kitchen permeate the air. And Olives is a whole lot more than just martinis and atmosphere. Kudos to the entire kitchen staff who have taken the Olives menu to another revel over the past two years. 108 North Main Street, Providence, (401) 751-1200; www.olivesmartini.com

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BEST WAY TO BEGIN A MEAL

Ordinary antipastos usually come with an array of cold cuts and cheeses over lettuce and friends (an olive, tomato, or cucumber here and there). But the "true Italian" antipasto at the Florentine Grille is anything but ordinary, and the "small" portion can amply feed three hungry souls. It is a celebration of vegetables, including pickled eggplant, sautéed carrot slices, grilled zucchini, marinated mushrooms, cannellini beans with cucumber chunks, and chopped tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, black olives, and a wedge of frittata. It’s a terrific assortment of tastes, textures, and temperatures. And so are many of the other openers on the Florentine’s menu: calamari three ways; littlenecks in a champagne broth; rabe with grilled sausage; a goat cheese, spinach, and prosciutto bruschetta. All this before you get to the 13 pasta dishes and the 13 meat and five seafood entrees. You have plenty of time to ponder all these choices, as you graze through the tempting appetizers. 1195 Douglas Avenue, North Providence, (401) 354-8411.

BEST ALLITERATION ON A PIZZA

Forget the portobellos, the pepperoni, the pomodoro, and pesto sauces. The best ingredients with a "p" to hop onto a pizza are prosciutto, peppers, and pineapple, especially in the company of pollo (chicken). After they’d barbecued the chicken, grilled the pineapple, and roasted (well, maybe) the red peppers, Meritage threw them all together on a pizza crust with scallions, Havarti, and Romano cheeses, to come up with this terrific combo. To show they’re not averse to continuing the theme, they’ve even thrown potatoes (mashed) onto a pizza bianco with fresh garlic and scallions. And they even popped some "p’s" onto a dessert pizza called pizza melba, with seasonally-fresh p-p-p-peaches! But Meritage doesn’t just begin and end with pizzas; in between are a wide selection of pastas (piccata, puttanesca, or Portuguese, among them); entrées, sushi, salads, and p-p-p-pub food, like nachos, Buffalo chicken, and calamari. P-p-p-perfect! 5454 Post Road, East Greenwich, (401) 884-1255.

BEST REASON TO ASK ‘GOT MILK?’

Five southern Rhode Island dairy farms — Tomaquag Valley, Escobar’s Highland, Meadowburg, Cottrell Homestead, and Wanton — have banded together to market their milk within Li’l Rhody. The Rhody Fresh brand is now found in almost every city and town, including many of the larger chains; smaller independent markets; roadside stands; and even gas station/mini-marts. Rhody Fresh comes in whole, 2%, 1%, and fat-free forms, just like the big guys. But it comes from Holsteins, Guernseys, Jerseys, and Ayrshires whose care and feeding are undertaken by dedicated farmers who want to preserve their way of life. The logo on the cartons shows a black-and-white cow with her middle black patch in the shape of Rhode Island. She looks out at milk drinkers framed by a round yellow sun, blue sky, and green fields. The freshness of the milk inside seems to taste of all three. The Rhode Island Dairy Farms Cooperative, (401) 397-3033, www.rhodyfresh.com.

BEST AND ZINGIEST COSMOPOLITAN REPLACEMENT

"Good evening, boys and girls, and welcome to Specialty Martini Class. Have you all brought your ingredients, including the Drano for your Volkini?" It’s only a matter of time. In efforts to out-cutesy the bar down the block, all sorts of ghastly concoctions have been formulated and adulterants inserted to innocent liquor. Chocolate, for pity’s sake? While purists still have not gotten over vodka replacing gin, and while some consider more than whispering the word vermouth into the glass to be adulteration, there is room for conscientious experimentation. The Nirvana at beyondindia is one such successful creation — ginger-flavored vodka, coarse sugar around the top, a splash of Gran Marnier, and a slice of fresh ginger perched on the rim like a beckoning hot kiss. Seven bucks. Smile of enlightenment extra. 123 Dorrance Street, Providence, (401) 278-2000; beyondindia.com

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BEST (AND PERHAPS ONLY) REMAINING REASON TO VISIT THE ARCADE

We’re not hating on America’s oldest indoor shopping mall (est. 1828), but there ain’t much going on. However, sugar and carbs are valid reasons to visit the Johnson & Wales-affiliated Johansson’s Bakery Café. Everything here is baked on the premises, including a dozen lunchtime sandwiches, served on one of a handful of bread choices including daily specials like olive and herb and sundried tomato. Whether it’s the classic hot Reuben or the Southwestern with turkey, hot peppers, pepperjack, and chipotle mayo on a baguette, all sandwiches are made to order and under $6 including pasta or potato salad and pickle (even better — they don’t charge extra for the bacon). Their simple recipe for tuna and chicken salad (forget the overpriced Willow Tree stuff) are also worthy of props. The big story, however, is the array of prominently displayed sweets. Handheld treats line the shelves — an endless array of cookies, hand-rolled truffles, dense chocolate espresso tarts, and strawberries sporting chocolate tuxedos, all under a buck. And a cake carousel taunts the sweet tooth with giant offerings like the double marble cheesecake, a mile-high chocolate curl cake, and the mudslide cake with Bailey’s ganache, Kahlua chocolate mousse, and vodka Chantilly cream. As they say in the biz — "Now dat’s cookin’ wit class!" 65 Weybosset Street, Providence, (401) 598-2253.

BEST COCA-COLA COLLECTION

The colors inside this tiny eatery are definitely ’70s (orange molded-plastic booths), but the nostalgia is ’50s all the way. That’s not just because of the menu’s classic breakfast and lunch offerings. Nor is it due to the extensive collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia (clocks, trays, miniature Coke machines, mugs, polar bears) in every possible nook and cranny. The nostalgia is the feel of Connie & Nikki’s, celebrating their 20th anniversary this year. It’s the perfect after-school hangout, with or without your mom in tow; the best place to settle in for a steaming bowl of chowdah when you finish your shift at 3 o’clock; a comfortable spot to spread your newspaper or accounting pages across a booth and sip a mug of coffee. Sandwiches run the gamut, with a Greek twist (gyros), as do the breakfasts, with a Greek omelet (spinach and feta). Don’t miss the homemade soups, the tapioca or rice puddings, and the waitress’s bright smile. 526 Pawtucket Avenue, Pawtucket, (401) 725-2540.

BEST TASTE OF MISSOURI RIGHT HERRE IN RHODY

Tucked away on the outskirts of Olneyville, Wes’ Rib House is all the reason you need to avoid lukewarm pizza and shady sausage trucks after a night of downtown imbibing. Start with the sampler-size chili with cheese and onions ($2). It’s a great way to prime the palette before getting down and dirty on their famous wood-burning, Missouri-style barbecue. The menu refers to the hefty dinner plate ($6.25) as a "regular-sized portion for the not-so-hungry or youngsters." What? Choose between chicken, beef, pork chops, or their two marquee meats — Wes’ ribs (obviously) or a mile-high pile of their chopped BBQ. Indecisive big boys should just go for the Show Me Platter ($14.75) — choose four slabs of meat to accompany the equally tasty sides of baked beans, homemade cornbread, and cole slaw. Rib House veterans also recommend the Smoked Pig Platter ($12.25) — no explanation needed. The bar and open dining room provide plenty of space for the after-hours crowd (open ’til 2 a.m. nightly and 4 a.m. on weekends), and the service is ’round-the-clock speedy (shoutout to Shelly on the late shift!). 38 Dike Street, Providence, (401) 421-9090; www.wesribhouse.com.

BEST CABEZA CHASER

We like to call Juan "Carlos" Fierros the unofficial mayor of Manton Avenue, home of Chilangos Taqueria, perhaps the greatest (and most inexpensive) Mexican eats east of El Segundo. The restaurant finally received its liquor license a few months back, and resident tequila expert Carlos has once again taken things into his own hands. Not only is he the architect behind the gorgeous, wood-carved interior (including a new bar and authentic saddles for bar stools), and ever-expanding menu, Carlos has decided to take advantage of his multiple trips to Mexico and invest in his own brand of tequila. And this isn’t bathtub tequila by any means; stop in for lunch sometime and he’ll tell you all about it over a margarita or house special Salty Dog. The time, money, and research paid off, and Casa Vieja is the result. What better way to chase down a few cow head tacos and cactus salad tostadas than with a few shots of some of the smoothest tequila you’ll ever sip without cringing. Its flowery bouquet is as pleasing as the ensuing, immortal buzz. It’s $5 per shot straight from the oak barrel, or you can crack open a bottle, ranging from $40 to $50 and worth every peso. As if the food wasn’t enough reason to venture down to Chilangos, we now have Casa Vieja. 447 Manton Avenue, Providence, (401) 383-4877.

BEST EAST SIDE SUSHI

We’re relatively new to this whole sushi business, but Tokyo on Wickenden Street has consistently calmed our nerves and even more importantly, we’ve felt curious enough to further peruse and explore the extensive menu. There isn’t a Japanese version of pizza and Buffalo wings, but Tokyo has enough options to ease your way through it. Kick off your kicks and lounge in the authentic Tatami room while deciding on a plethora of raw, grilled, and fried fare. The tempura platters are a safe bet for a table of rookies, as are the ubiquitous teriyaki options. From the classic California rolls to the sashimi with tender squid and octopus, once you start sampling and dipping the art of sushi will become an undeniable addiction. But for the unadventurous who still have a problem getting down with raw baitfish wrapped in seaweed, try the udon suki, a giant bowl of tender noodles ensconced with just about every sea creature imaginable. All dinners come with miso soup and ginger ice cream, the perfect complement to a head full of wasabe. The place itself isn’t all that glamorous but it is BYOB; by the time you’ve polished off a case with a small group or a bottle of bubbly with an intimate friend, the immediate surroundings become an afterthought. 388 Wickenden Street, Providence, (401) 331-5330.

BEST — AND MOST SURPRISING — SERVICE

What’s most striking about Carrabba’s Italian Grill and its helpful waitstaff is that the place is, perish the thought, a chain. But when untethered from corporate HQ, aren’t chain restaurants prone to providing lackluster service? Well, apparently the Mama’s-kitchen concerns of founders Johnny Carrabba and Damian Mandola, of the PBS cooking show Cucina Sicilia, have been chiseled into marble next to the time cards. A visit prompted largely by a description of the service as especially attentive found that to be so. Yet the staff doesn’t make a big deal of it — no interrupting your conversation to ask, 10 minutes into the meal, if everything is all right. And not only was a blaring speaker above the table turned down on request, but the manager later came over to see if it was low enough. 1324 Bald Hill Road, Warwick, (401) 827-8880.

BEST SANDWICH ARTISTS

No, we aren’t talking about Jared the franchise sandwich slut, but a little slice of heaven on the west end known as the Hudson Street Market. The sandwiches have long been the talk of the town, so much so that a sign often appears on the door declaring they’re all out. The Market has become a hangout of sorts for local artist types and is the only bodega in the neighborhood to carry a wide array of fresh veggies, from alfalfa sprouts to sliced avocado, and remain reasonably priced. But there is also plenty of Boar’s Head on hand for those of us not interested in the highbrow rabbit food, and finishing off a sandwich in one sitting should be deemed impressive. The service at times can get a little pesky (an attribute that seems to prevail in more than a few Providence sandwich spots), but slinging legendary sandwiches made to order justifies the ’tude. 68 Hudson Street, Providence, (401) 274-4540.

BEST BETCHA CAN’T BURGER

Greasy spoon diners are a dime a dozen around here, but don’t let the unassuming awning at the Classic Café fool you. It’s easy to miss flying down Westminster Street, but the breakfast and burgers alone make the Classic Café a must-stop. Like many local diners, the Café is only open until 3 p.m., but thankfully breakfast is served ’til closing for those of us who regard breakfast as the elusive meal of choice. The three-egg omelets are fantastic, with combos like mushroom, Swiss, and spinach ($6.95) and the Kitchen Sink ($8.95), which could feed two. Chicken-fried steak, biscuits and gravy, hash and eggs — the Classic Café has all the morning grease and carbs you need. Not to be outdone, the lunch menu contains plenty of melts, wraps, and salads. Whether you opt for the tuna melt ($5.95) with grilled sourdough and cheddar, a basket of buffalo strips and fries ($7.95), charbroiled dogs, or a steak and cheese wrap on a tomato basil tortilla, you can’t go wrong. But whatever you do, try the chili! On a burger, as a starter, or swimming in a cheddar omelet, the homemade chili is proof positive that the Classic Café is light years ahead of most mom-and-pop greasy spoons. Oh yeah, this place boasts the "Betcha Can’t 3-Lb. Burger." Finish one off and the burger’s on them, and the kind folks at the Classic Café will assist you into the ambulance. 865 Westminster Street Providence, (401) 273-0707.

BEST DECONSTRUCTION OF THE POTENTIALLY HIGHFALUTIN

First there was wine snobbery, which allowed some to detect a quaintly synergistic note of teaberry and Old Spice in a hitherto un-noteworthy Merlot. Then came coffee snobbery, which allowed places to charge $1297.85 per pound for beans picked before dawn in an eastern province of Shangri-la, and find buyers. And now what’s this? Tea sans snobbery at Tealuxe? Such a lost opportunity, what with all the lifted pinky associations. No, starting at Harvard Square in 1996 and opening since then in Boston and Providence, Tealuxe demystified the distinguishing features of about 70 varieties with concise, informative descriptions. Taking permission from the bergamot in Earl Grey (of which they have seven versions), they offer 15 other flavored teas, including Monk’s Blend ("black tea, vanilla, and grenadine"). Not neglected are arsonist-smoky Lapsang Souchong and healthy-minded medicinal teas and herbal infusions. 231 Thayer Street, Providence, (401) 453-4832; www.Tealuxe. com.

BEST FIX FOR THE BI-CAFFEINATED

Whether your caffeine of choice is coffee or tea, you won’t be disappointed with the Istanbul Coffeehouse. The offerings are limited but oh-so on-target. The Turkish black tea ($2) is served in a clear glass, so you can enjoy the reddish glow as well as the deep taste. As for their Turkish coffee, it’s hot, black velvet. The little cup of thick, ambrosial brew may have silt on the bottom from its traditional made-to-order preparation, but the full flavor is light and low-acid, almost sweet without additional sugar. A recommended pastry accompaniment is kadayif ($3 with coffee, $4 without), shredded filo over a generous portion of sweetened chopped walnut filling. The coffeehouse, which also serves Turkish food, was opened in the summer of 2003 by husband and wife proprietors Ahab and Bahtinur Abdelwahab. 2 Broadway, Newport, (401) 841-5828.

BEST BROILED, BOILED, STUFFED, SAUTEED, OR FRIED?

It’s 75 years and counting for Jeff Hirsch & Co. at the prestigious Lobster Pot, overlooking Bristol Harbor. It’s seafare at its best, and even the usual suspects are outstanding — tender calamari with hot peppers ($8.95), bacon-wrapped scallops ($7.95), and Oysters Rockefeller ($12) are all winners, but save your waistline for the entrées. The famous Lobster Pot clambake ($29.95) is bursting with steamers, boiled potato, sausage, and fish. Boiled, broiled, and grilled lobsters run from $22 for one-pounders to $66 for monstrous three-pounders. The baked stuffed fisherman-style ($26 to $66) and the rich and hearty lobster shepherd’s pie ($25) are perennial favorites. But the surf ’n’ turf ($27.95 and $29.95) is the big story here, with limitless options to accompany a petit filet mignon. It almost seems oxymoronic dumping the ocean’s prized treasure into a vat of hot oil, but this deep-fried delicacy succeeds in its simplicity, with freshly chopped chunks of tail receiving only a light dusting of flour. 119 Hope Street, Bristol, (401) 253-9100.