WOODY'S,

Woody's has found the scale and style that befits chef Monahan and his loyal customers. No more breakfasts -- the purgatory of the restaurant business: time-intensive and inexpensive -- or sandwich-oriented lunch service to keep a big barn of a space busy. He decided to serve just dinners, like a violin virtuoso who got serious and gave up his wedding gigs. The appetizers are listed on the menu as tapas -- an invitation to nosh on some of the eight choices (including two pizzas) and three "greens" (salads) in-lieu of entrées. Including specials, there are only about a dozen main dishes from the one-chef kitchen. But there are meatless dishes and two kinds of steaks, so no one should leave hungry. The obligatory inexpensive chicken dish ($14.97) is not-only free-range but also "brick-seared." (Beats me, too, but sounds succulent.) The fish of the day, baked cod ($21), was pan-seared, which left it crispy outside and still moist inside, enhanced by a chunky tomato broth. Like my pistachio-encrusted spring lamb ($20.41), the featured component came atop "wild greens," including radicchio and what I took to be baby bok choy, and "smashed potatoes." The potatoes were dreamy, the buttery sort that make you neglect fancier things on your plate. My lamb was medium-rare, as requested, and pomegranate enhanced the juices nicely.

Full review.