SHELTER HARBOR INN,

The two dining rooms of the Shelter Harbor Inn are varied in their moods Ñ the long sunny room, overlooking the garden, stands in contrast to the center room, which is dominated by a blazing fire in the hearth and a low, planked ceiling. Menus at this romantic getaway change seasonally. Two long-time favorite appetizers include the smoked scallops over capellini ($9.95; it's listed as an entree under the "tavern menu"), and the French onion soup ($4.25). For the main event, try the Inn's touted pan-seared scallops with lobster risotto ($19.95), the eggplant caponata over pasta ($13.95), or finnan haddie ($14.95), smoked haddock poached in milk and then served en casserole, surrounded by mashed potatoes. New England traditionals like jonnycakes ($2.50) and Indian pudding ($3.25) anchor the dessert menu, but fruit desserts also make seasonal appearances.

Full review.