trattoria del corso
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trattoria del corso 401.398.2905 223 main street, east greenwich Open mon-thurs, 5-10 pm, fri-sat, 5-11 pm, sun, 4-9 pm major credit cards full bar no access to restrooms
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It’s good to see a new place fill up on a weeknight, usually a sign that the locals have discovered it — and East Greenwich denizens are definitely discerning diners. Trattoria del Corso, owned by Aaron Edwards and Mark Scott, both alumni of Raphael Bar Risto, has been open just a bit more than six months, but it has already made its mark as a contender among the many other good restaurants on Main Street. Edwards and Scott have transformed a two-story house into two floors of dining, with a bar on each level. The downstairs is divided into two dining rooms, one a long narrow space beside the bar, and another even more restricted area between the kitchen and two very tiny restrooms that open directly onto the dining room. We wished we’d been informed about the upstairs when we arrived, because we most likely would have chosen it for its roominess and its view. Nonetheless, the first floor walls are a restful shade of apricot, several mirrors broaden the feel of the room, and white linens add a touch of class. The random mode on the CD player moved easily from Dean Martin to Sinatra, from Mel Torme to Norah Jones, soothing my workday nerves. As did my glass of white wine, the variety of house-marinated olives, and the warm focaccia (made by pastry chef Sara Liebenguth) quickly brought to the table. Looking over the appetizer possibilities, we noticed littlenecks with sausage and white beans, lobster salad with mango and red onion, and beef carpaccio with balsamic-marinated mushrooms. But we returned again and again to the many taste treats listed in the "antipasta giardiniera" ($12), an alluring array of capicola, soppressata, and prosciutto, along with marinated veggies, chunks of provolone, wedges of grilled ricotta salata, and a piece of artichoke frittata, all drizzled with a balsamic vinaigrette and served with rosemary focaccia. I loved the smokiness of the salty ricotta, a dry, hard cheese different from the soft ricotta used in lasagna, and Bill enjoyed portions of the three meats — there was plenty for lunch the next day. A suggestion, however, on the marinated veggies: don’t expect them to absorb much flavor if they’re still quite raw in the marinade; they must be cooked tender to do that. Trattoria del Corso also offers two hand-tossed pizzas — one with tomato sauce, one with garlic-and-oil — and four salads, including one with shrimp and capers, among its starters. Its pasta standouts are a white bean-marsala sauce over penne, a diavolo sauce with shrimp, scallops, and littlenecks over linguine, and house-made ravioli ($14), whose description doesn’t quite explain what’s inside and what’s on top of these pasta pockets. What should be inside is a mixture of roasted garlic, chopped pignoli nuts, wilted spinach and Parmesan, and what should be on top are string beans, cherry tomatoes, and wild greens, all of it in a pesto cream sauce. Sometimes it doesn’t make a lot of difference if the flavors all get mixed together, and it didn’t here, since the cream sauce was so delicious. But it was hard to figure out where the ravioli’s filling and its garnishes began and ended. The waitress and I concluded that the three large ravioli had actually been overcooked and then plated in a vaguely amorphous way, minus any wild greens. Bill’s dish — from almost a dozen entrées — was also quite tasty. The sausage-and-pepper stuffed chicken breast ($16) was presented with a sweet onion marinara. It was perched atop mashed potatoes, and escorted by sautéed broccoli rabe, which also could have profited from more careful attention (with the stems cooked first, so that they are as tender as the heads). Liebenguth’s desserts range from a tiramisu variation through crème brulée and gelato to the restaurant’s piece de resistance: a tartufo that is a cheesecake with raspberry and chocolate truffles wrapped in pastry dough, accompanied by sautéed fruit and vanilla gelato. We chose a chocolate bombe with a mango brulée center, covered with chocolate ganache ($9), and it was as decadent as it sounds, even though the intense chocolate swallowed up the mango. We’re looking forward to working our way through that dessert menu. And next time, we’ll sit upstairs.
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