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Sakonnet Fish Co.
Seafood with a delicate touch
BY JOHNETTE RODRIGUEZ

Sakonnet Fish Co.

Sakonnet Fish Co.
401.683.1180
657 park avenue, portsmouth
Open tues-sun, 11:30 am-3 pm, 4-10 pm
major credit cards
full bar
sidewalk-level access

We’d been looking forward to eating at the Sakonnet Fish Company ever since we drove through Island Park one evening in May. We’d already had supper that night, but vowed to come back for the extensive seafood menu and the view from the upstairs dining room onto Blue Bell Cove. Neither disappointed us on a recent visit with an old friend visiting from Germany.

Downstairs was a bustling scene, with many people at the raw bar and the waitstaff scurrying about. Upstairs was quieter, with white linen tablecloths, blue napkins matching blue accents in the dˇcor, and the lights of Mount Hope Bridge beginning to twinkle just as the pink tones of the sunset receded. Initially, our waitress seemed a bit frazzled, but she explained that it was quite warm in the small kitchen downstairs where she placed her orders. She was quite attentive, however. When she mentioned "one order of steamers left," among her list of specials — and I decided immediately that we should try them — she interrupted her announcements to let the kitchen know, so that those steamers wouldn’t disappear.

Our waitress later told us the steamers (soft-shelled clams) are among her favorites at the restaurant, and she nicely brought us extra napkins for our clam juice-soaked fingers. We were busy showing our friend Norbert how to remove the membrane around the neck that holds the sand and then to dunk the clam in the broth to rinse it off. From our first bites, we were hooked on the delicate sweetness and lightness of these Rhode Island steamers ($9.99 for more than two pounds).

I chose another nightly special, the grilled swordfish with garlic and herb butter ($20.99), and it was carefully prepared, served with very fresh green beans (which we all enjoyed as a side veggie) and rice. It’s always good to find someone who knows how swordfish must be handled, and chef Brian Cook certainly does.

Bill was drawn to the grilled marinated shrimp ($18.99), and he savored every bite of the six fat ones, which were doused with a sweet chili sauce and then served with a ginger relish. Mention ginger or chili sauce, and there’s no question what Bill will order — no matter where the shrimp come from (in this case, Panama).

Owner Michael Galvin emphasized to us how carefully he picks his seafood and how great it is to get such fat steamers right in Rhode Island. He mentioned that he tries to get as many of his ingredients as possible from Newport County, though the swordfish that week came from Maine.

Norbert chose the local cod, prepared in a way that beckoned to any diner: "almond-crusted with apricot butter." It was roasted just right, with the crunch of the almonds contrasting with the soft flesh of the fish. A separate cup of the apricot butter allowed each mouthful to be adorned with a dollop. Definitely recommended.

Other seafood entrˇes at Sakonnet Fish include New Bedford sea scallops, Atlantic salmon, grilled or blackened tuna, fish and chips, and two baked dishes: shrimp, scallops, and cod in a light lobster sauce; or seafood lasagna with shrimp, scallops, and lobster in a cream sauce, with a menu note that would pique anyone’s interest. "Due to popular demand, we’ve added two more layers!" Signature items are the lobster cakes, the littlenecks with white wine and chouri¨o, the raw tuna parfait, and the crab margarita with fruit salsa. For non-seafood eating friends, there are two chicken dishes, and a bourbon-glazed sirloin.

Sakonnet’s wine list has a nice selection, including wines from Newport County vineyards. They also have a full bar.

Desserts are partly house-made, partly purchased. On a Thursday evening, we found that our only choices were the purchased products, though the dense chocolate layer cake was nothing to scoff at. On the weekends, the kitchen bakes up fruit cobblers or tarts from whatever fruit is in season.

For friendly, gracious service (our waitress also headed off a timing glitch in the kitchen); for the freshest seafood its owner can find; and for an amazing vista from the second floor, Sakonnet Fish Co. can’t be beat.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached at johnette.rodriguez@cox.net.


Issue Date: September 2 - 8, 2005
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