Though Maria’s Seaside Café can’t actually claim to have a view of the ocean (the beach is just across the street, but the rising dunes block the vista), it definitely has the sound effects. On a recent evening, the rumbles and roars of the crashing surf competed with grumbles and growls from a sky filled with dark thunder clouds, and a burning disc of sun steadily slipped below them before diving behind the horizon.

We’ve always found a dramatic natural setting for the dramatic tastes at Maria’s, as much a treat for locals during its short summer season as for the tourists who flock to Misquamicut and Weekapaug. Since being started by Maria and Nicola Bellone, along with several other family members, in 1994, it has built a steady reputation for great food, impeccable service, and a comfortable atmosphere.

This time, despite the threat of rain, we chose an outdoor table in one of two large tent-covered sections, alongside a plastic picket fence and a flowerbed. Inside, the tiled floors with light coral walls and black wooden chairs give a crisp, elegant feel to the two spacious dining rooms that were filled with extended families as well as young couples.

The "zuppas of the night" were roasted corn chowder and lobster bisque ($4.95 each). We chose a signature dish from the antipasti — crispy calamari salad ($8.95) — and the bisque. The latter was smooth and rich, with a deep lobster flavor. Topped by a small floating gougere, a cheese-flavored pastry, this soup was an excellent beginning. The calamari was indeed crispy, contrasting with the julienned summer vegetables and field greens with which it was tossed, the whole in a chipotle horseradish vinaigrette that was quite sharp on the tongue.

Though we didn’t have Maria’s salad ($8.95) that evening, we wondered about the differences in descriptions on the regular menu and the take-away menu, which also lists five scrumptious-sounding 14-inch pizzas available only for take-out. On that menu, Maria’s salad had gone up-town, with grapes, walnuts, pancetta and a Gorgonzola dressing. But, back by popular demand is Maria’s first version: a chopped salad of Romaine, iceberg, Belgian endive, radicchio, tomatoes, cucumbers, Granny Smith apples, and a balsamic vinaigrette.

Maria’s always offers close to a dozen pasta dishes and just under a dozen "secondi" entrées, which focus more on the seafood or meat in the dish, though some, such as the chicken or veal Parmesan, are also served with pasta. Maria’s knows how to ratchet up a familiar recipe, such as penne Bolognese, by including ground filet mignon and ground veal in a wild mushroom Marsala sauce. Or the pan-seared sea scallops with lobster meat over couscous, with a soupçon of black truffle essence.

Unfortunately, the scallops were not available that particular evening, so I had to settle on the grilled swordfish ($23.95), which turned out to be a fine second choice. The steak, almost two inches thick, was moist and delicious. It sat atop a bed of basil mashed potatoes and was topped with grilled asparagus. Garnishing it were grilled Roma tomatoes and fresh arugula.

After perusing the pasta possibilities, Bill settled on an old favorite: linguine con vongole ($18.95), with a dozen fresh whole clams in a white sauce and plenty of slices of garlic. The linguine was quite nicely al dente, and the clams were wonderfully fresh. In the same vein are the fresh oysters on Maria’s pub menu, which also includes burgers, nachos, and onion rings.

Maria’s dessert menu tempted us sorely with a description of fresh cherries glazed in Chianti, layered with whipped cream and wafers, and with a dark chocolate mousse cake with a raspberry center, an almond cookie crust, and a bitter chocolate glaze. Alas, both were gone that night (after a busy weekend), so we had to resort to, sigh, the tiramisu ($7.95) and the crème brûlée ($6.95). Each was delectable. One layer of the ladyfingers in the tiramisu had been soaked in espresso and the other in amaretto, for different flavors twining through the mascarpone.

My guess is that those missing desserts and scallops were just a ruse to pull me back to Maria’s. They needn’t have gone to such trouble — I’d go back in a heartbeat regardless.

Johnette Rodriguez can be reached at johnette.rodriguez@cox.net.