One of the amazing things about living in Rhode Island is that you can count on never running out of Italian restaurants to discover. For us, this meant a recent trip to the outer limits of Douglas Avenue to track down Florentine Grille. And we’re definitely glad we did, for we not only discovered some unusual preparations of familiar dishes, but also attentive servers who seemed to like their work and thereby their customers (even the toddler diner behind us).

The entrance to Florentine Grille is quite formal, with an oversized sculpture of the fleur-de-lis emblem near a tall reception desk and a large print of the Mona Lisa spotlighted on a wall nearby. In the main dining room, the effect continues, with subdued lighting, dark woodwork, and cloth napkins standing in a twirl in the wineglasses. "Romantic," Bill dubbed it, as we chose a table near the windows for more light on our menus.

Good thing, too, since there is so much to absorb: 10 appetizers, 11 pizzas and bruschettas, and three salads with chicken, shrimp, or beef add-ons before your eyes even light on the pastas (more than a dozen) and entrées (almost two dozen). The wine list is also extensive, listing many wines by region in Italy; a few are from California and Australia.

We were aided in our first decision by the reputation of Florentine Grille’s antipasto, which is not the kind of salad plus cheese and cold cuts that most Americans associate with that term. Billed as "a true Italian antipasto," this was a sampling of marinated vegetable salads and grilled vegetables. We ordered the small version ($7.99; $14.99 for the large), and three of us could not finish it. Here’s an overview of the plate: small, tasty black olives; pickled eggplant strips; sauteed carrot slices; grilled zucchini slices; marinated mushrooms; cannellini beans with cucumber chunks and chopped cherry tomatoes; marinated artichoke hearts; and a wedge of frittata. Granted, the carrots, zucchini, and frittata may have been the only house-made items, but nonetheless, it was all quite delicious.

The second starter we chose was a mixed mushroom bruschetta ($10.99), three large slices of bread heaped with sautéed portobellos, shiitakes, and criminis. This was a treat, especially for mushroom fans like our friend Ginny, but Bill and I found quite a bit of grit in the mushrooms (perhaps the shiitakes needed more rinsing), and that marred our overall impression of the appetizer.

Ginny was quick to order her entrée: gamberoni d’Ischia, six plump shrimp pan fried in Pinot Grigio and plenty of garlic, served on a bed of cannellini beans. She loved this twist on scampi, though she realized almost immediately that a lot of her dish would go home for tasty leftovers. She was even more convinced of this when a side dish of red bliss mashed potatoes, a braised sweet red pepper, and a small salad arrived.

Bill and I took longer to deliberate about our meals. Who would have the pasta, and who the meat or seafood entrée? Was he in the mood for veal (tenderloin with onions and peppers), chicken (balsamic-marinated breast), steak (ribeye "cowboy" cut) or seafood (tuna, swordfish, salmon, or scrod)? He was able to combine two of those possibilities into one, with pollo e gamberi, chicken paillard and grilled jumbo shrimp ($23.99). This was also accompanied by the same small salad and nicely garlicked mashed potatoes, and the chunks in the potatoes were a pleasant texture contrast.

I lingered among the pastas, contemplating the lobster ravioli, the potato gnocchi, the arrabiata sauce, the tagliatelle with pesto, and the pink sauce with asparagus and shrimp. In the end, I settled on the penne with pink sauce ($14.99), made pink with mascarpone cheese stirred into tomato sauce, and nicely herbed with fresh basil. Quite delightful!

Desserts at Florentine Grille are imported through Bindi, an Italian purveyor, and they include gelatos and sorbets; crême brulée; and a triple chocolate confection of mousse, torte, and gelato. Though the desserts were definitely tempting, we were all much too sated by our meal to spoon in another bite.

Florentine Grille offers a separate lounge/bar which is also an eating area for smokers, as well as the Stardust nightclub downstairs, with live music on Friday and Saturday nights. There are two smaller dining rooms, in addition to the large one where we ate. In one, a series of large prints of men wearing vegetables and fruits is quite amusing. But we looked out onto a patio with cafe seating, and we were soothed by sounds of Sinatra, crooning old standards.

If Florentine Grille’s style is a bit old-fashioned (the combination of dark wood, black ceiling tiles, and tiny spot lights is simply too dark for me), it also has a dedication to old-fashioned cooking and service. The food is lovingly prepared and presented, and the waitstaff is helpful, charming, and patient. Whether it’s romance you’re seeking, a get-together with several friends, or a quiet family outing, Florentine Grille is the place for a special night out.