My cousin and I grew up with the backyard clambake. Friends and family (imagine a Sopranos casting call with lobster bibs) played bocce, while Uncle Red manned the brick-and-stone contraption that somehow simultaneously prepared pounds of steamers, sausage, potatoes, and baskets of lobster. Now, when our crustacean craving rears up each spring, we make our way to the Lobster Pot, a leading waterfront destination for East Bay seafood enthusiasts. The takeout menu features two lobsters toasting wine glasses atop a trap, in what must be a rare victory around these parts. This Rhode Island landmark, after all, quietly tucked just off the red, white, and blue parade trail, is celebrating 75 years of brisk business.

Weekend reservations are recommended, and it took a few extra minutes to find parking during an early-bird midweek visit. The lot barely holds 25 cars, equal only to the number of tables in the main dining room. We spotted the car with the "1" Rhode Island plates parked in front, so it was no surprise to find Governor Carcieri and crew enjoying an early dinner at the corner table. In case you were wondering, the gov ordered his usual — roasted cod with seafood bread pudding in lobster butter sauce ($19.95). It turns out that he is close with the affable head honcho, Jeff Hirsch, as are many luminaries past and present, including the late longtime neighbor Anthony Quinn. Our waitress, Mary, recalled the crabby legend offering tips of "10 percent, tops" and nagging during his weekly visits to the Lobster Pot’s raw bar.

While the gubna’s entrée (and the gossip) sounded intriguing, we had surf ’n’ turf tunnel vision. But appetizers first, and while contemplating our options (15 of the 18 starters are ocean offerings), we decided to forgo our usual opener, the consistently tender calamari with hot peppers ($8.95), in favor of bacon-wrapped scallops ($7.95) and Oysters Rockefeller ($12). The juicy scallops came with a simple lemon wedge, and the sautéed spinach and garlic atop the oysters (blanketed in Swiss cheese) allowed the fresh and briny oyster to lead this classic dish.

The Lobster Pot is consistent with the "no-soup-for-salad" substitution, but I decided to hold the exotic greens in favor of the a la carte quahog chowder ($3.95 and $6.95). The sensible absence of rubbery bits is welcome, and our favorite mud-dweller is used only to accentuate the silky, light cream broth and diced potato. Their raw bar also offers a la carte crustaceans, from cherrystones ($1.75) to a half cold lobster ($9.50). We simultaneously noted the Narragansett Bay grand sampler ($70!), a decadent selection of fresh oysters, littlenecks, shrimp, and crab, to name a few.

Over the years, we have sampled most of the 17 lobster entrées, including the tender split-grilled lobster, the luscious lobster ravioli ($25), and the lobster pot clam bake ($29.95), an authentic platter of steamers, boiled potato, sausage, and fish. Prices for boiled, broiled, and grilled lobsters run from $22 for one-pounders to $66 for monstrous three-pounders. What about the lazy man’s baked stuffed fisherman-style ($26 to $66)? I couldn’t keep from eyeing the lobster shepherds pie ($25), but Mary reminded me that the wintertime favorite is "very rich and hearty." Another winner is the delicious tempura-battered shrimp Foster ($23.95), named after a longtime regular.

My craving still called for the surf ’n’ turf ($27.95 and $29.95), but one must decide which marquee creation to select. It’s quite the quandary, considering the seemingly limitless concoctions to accompany a petit filet mignon (a dozen beef, veal, and chicken entrees are also offered). The baked stuffed shrimp and seafood casserole are solid choices, but we couldn’t resist the fried and sautéed options. You won’t find fried lobster at a Downcity bistro or Galilee clam cake shack (this ain’t "popcorn lobsta"), and this treat is well worth the trip down Route 114. The deep fried delicacy succeeds in its simplicity, with freshly chopped chunks of tail in a light dusting of flour. The buttery sautéed preparation was also excellent, rivaling such renowned Rhody spots as Twin Oaks and the Crow’s Nest in Warwick.

The accouterments, three new boiled potatoes, and a medley of peppers and mushrooms in a light tomato sauce, couldn’t offer much distraction while I devoured the fork-tender filet, cooked to a perfect medium-rare. The waitstaff is attentive yet unobtrusive, and Mr. Hirsch casually glides through the main dining room, chatting up the menu and ensuring customer satisfaction.

Although the majority of the desserts are made in-house, from the Indian pudding with cornmeal ($5.75) to the pineapple-coconut dark rum cake ($6.25), the stomach begged for a break in the action.

We finished our Coronas and appreciated a serene Bristol Harbor sunset. A gallery-sized art collection adorns the wall opposite the dining room, and the main room (flanked by a smaller dining room and lounge) offers plenty of window seating, framed by subtle green tones and white linen. Small wonder that this simple elegance has sustained and accentuated the Lobster Pot’s provision of authentic backyard sea cuisine for 75 years.