Hungry people could debate for days the state’s best burger. There are classic patty melts offered by such mainstays as Gregg’s, Newport Creamery, and the various New York Systems. A separate category goes to the upscale venues serving those mammoth $40-plus burgers highlighted by foie gras and watercress, from massaged cows who enjoyed a lavish lifestyle, grazing on arugula right before the inevitable VIP tour of the slaughterhouse. But the undisputed burger king resides in humble Central Falls, where a quaint joint named Stanley’s has been serving the blue-collar locals for more than 70 years.

"Comfort food at its finest," headlines the menu, history, (and homepage) behind this grease-laden landmark, which opened during the Great Depression, eventually flourishing within its small-town surroundings. The restaurant changed owners in 1987 and underwent major renovations a few years back (including the addition of a long-overdue parking lot), adopting a red neon and sleek chrome retro-shtick dangerously close to a certain yesteryear-inspired burger and fries franchise. As diners pull into the parking lot, the hunger pains nonetheless howl for attention. This is not least since an alluring aroma permeates the neighborhood, thanks to an enormous grill vent sticking out of the place (some damn good marketing strategy there). This’ll have you floating toward the door like Barney Rubble catching a whiff of a brontosaurus burger.

Our carnivorous crew of four crammed into a corner booth and immediately eyed the extensive list of options, from the basic cheese or tomato burger ($2.14), to the double bacon, grilled pepper, or mushroom cheeseburger ($3.98). Fresh beef (never frozen patties, insisted our waitress), and the steamed buns, buttered and lightly grilled, will have your Atkins diet on the backburner, so to speak. So what’s the secret weapon? The Stanley burger is "redolent with grilled pickles and onions," as www.stanleyshamburgers.com eloquently proclaims, and accompany every burger "unless specified otherwise." Perhaps still hypnotized from the aromatic parking lot, we requested "extra-extra" all around.

The sandwich is a bit greasy, of course, but expertly cooked and consistent, leaving the table to fall silent while six bacon doubles were devoured between the four of us. Voracious appetites can prove pricey here, and Stanley’s may be one of the only restaurants where lettuce and tomato cost you an extra 45 cents, but hey, some of us would agree that rabbit food serves no purpose on a sinfully good burger, anyway.

The requisite side orders come in three carefully proportioned sizes, from a side to a large basket. The "fresh-cut" fries were flavorful, if a bit soggy. The onion rings ($1.65-$4.45), on the other hand, are some of the best you’ll find, with chopped onion inside, rather than an oversized, chin-slapping onion strip. The side was rather small (fewer than eight rings) but sufficient considering the entree. Some of the accoutrements were much less successful, however, including the even less visually appealing "Quebec-style fries" ($2.69-$5.74), a heart stopper incorporating melted mozzarella and brown gravy ladled on top. The same applied to the cheddar fries ($3.45-$7.59), where the ubiquitous canned cheese sauce looked like a science experiment gone awry, although the adjacent party of three had no problem devouring a large platter.

On a side note, I ventured toward the hot dog ($1.89), recalling childhood days of the delicious Newport Creamery dog, split and grilled (not boiled), with its seriously buttered and toasted roll. I added chili for another 85 cents. Billed as a homemade recipe, it, oddly enough, is not offered as a burger topping. As it happened, the flavor was a bit bland — unnecessary on the perfectly grilled frank.

Dessert at this point is a mere afterthought, with soft serve ice cream cones ($1.49-$2.79), parfaits, and the occasional pie special. Small wedges of apple pie were flying off the shelf during our visit, and while the remainder of our artery-clogged crew could not bear the thought of additional caloric intake, I decided to take one for the team, grabbing a root beer float ($2.29) to go. This all but guaranteed an imminent six-hour food coma. Outfitted with the necessary spoon and straw, the thick and frothy concoction provided another delightful dose of déjà vu, making me recall youthfully pedaling my Mongoose BMX bike through Warwick to visit my favorite ice cream take-out window.

Stanley’s is less than four miles past the Pawtucket line and minutes from downtown via Interstate 95, yet we can already hear the moaning, "Yaw gonna drive all da way ta Centrull Fawls juss for a burguh? Isn’t that wickit fah away?" Fear not, for the Web site offers a mapquest.com link. Better yet, just follow that enticing aroma wafting down Dexter Street in Central Falls.