We've enjoyed Raphael's in several incarnations, beginning at the South Water Street digs, including a sojourn in East Greenwich (sold eight months ago) and now, at its location off Kennedy Plaza for the past four years. Partly it's because we like stepping through Raphael's revolving door and feeling as if we're in a completely new world, transported by the chic design elements of co-owner Elisa Conte. And partly it's because co-owner and executive chef Ralph Conte shares his wife's flair for the unusual, but directs it toward the food.

Recently, Ralph revamped his menu with a concern for getting back to a dish's basic ingredients and not over-garnishing the Italian lilies that are his forte. New among the appetizers are fried zucchini flowers with ricotta dumplings and littlenecks zuppa. We were in the mood, however, to start off with shrimp, in this case, roasted with fresh mozzarella over sliced tomatoes with black olive puree ($11). After his first forkful, Bill said, with characteristic brio: "I don't ever want shrimp that's not like this!" The cheese and shrimp were great dancing partners, as were the olive puree and the tomatoes. Scrumptious!

Moving on to the pastas, Ralph's signature lobster fra diavolo and eggplant ravioli still grace the menu, but they're joined by whole wheat ziti with pesto, potatoes, and green beans ($15); and, my entree choice, lobster tortelli, with white truffle cream ($28). The latter was as dreamy as it sounds, three large green tortelli (not as small as tortellini), stuffed with ricotta and lobster meat and surrounded by a Champagne and brie cream sauce with a touch of truffle oil. Wait, there's more. These luscious pockets were topped with fresh lobster meat and the whole was, ahem, garnished with pan-flashed spinach. The tastes were straightforward and delectable. The cream sauce had a lingering sweetness that melded with the sweetness of the lobster. And the spinach was a terrific contrast, both its texture and inherent earthiness.

Bill gravitated toward the heftier side of the menu, settling on the prosciutto-wrapped tournedos ($28). The beef's macho nature was enhanced by its companions: potato galette (similar to scalloped potatoes), grilled portobellos, and a touch of provolone, all in a red wine sauce. He seemed very satisfied with the tender and nicely rare tournedos.

Now, a breather before dessert. Take in the sounds of Sinatra crooning and the water streaming down the plate of glass behind the Venus-like sculpture at the restaurant's entrance. Feel the Tuscan warmth of gold and burnt-orange colors in the main dining room; arched woodwork above the windows, the curve repeated in large concave lamp fixtures; soft black leather on the chairs; the elongated diamond-shaped plate for my entree; tall, slim bottles of sienna-colored olive oil on the table topped with white linen.

The last aspect of comfort at Raphael's: the well-trained staff, which knows when to clear, what to clear, not to hover or rush diners, how to keep their cool, and most of all, how to make you feel pampered; Kudos to our waiter, Mike Mendes. And if all of that hasn't made you feel like a pasha, the glamorous desserts will.

The decision among the 10 options weighed heavy on us. The hazelnut chocolate torte with Grand Marnier creme and dark chocolate sauce appealed to many of our cravings. As did the baked apple crostata with carmelized fruit, almonds, and Gorgonzola mousse.

But the two that won out were the rum baba and banana flambé ($10) and the lemon meringue Napoleon ($8). The former was like a bananas Foster supreme, with almond gelato and rum-soaked sponge cake. The latter was diamonds of crust, stacked with lemon meringue, floating in a lemoncello cream with pieces of toasted coconut to complete the decadence. Ralph may be trying to "get rid of the doo-dads sticking out everywhere," as he told us later that evening, but when it comes to the desserts, he knows that we diners are suckers for excess.

The excess at Raphael's has always been tempered by a great sense of style. And with the new "less is more" concept pervading the menu -- a push for the ingredients to shine on their own without extra frills and ribbons -- the food matches the decor in creating a thoroughly elegant ambience.

On June 11, the magazine La Cucina Italiana returns to Raphael's for a "Sun and Sea Dinner," highlighting the Italian way with native fish and vegetables ($85 per person includes wine and a six-course dinner: wild salmon roulade with capers, sweet pea custard with caviar, basil gnocchi with smoked eggplant puree, diver scallops with dandelions, potato-crusted local. striped bass with tomato-anise sauce, and lemon panna cotta). Call for reservations.

Issue Date: June 7 - 13, 2002