You know you're a truly assimilated Rhode Islander when you can remember two previous restaurants in the location of a new one. In this case, it's Raphael's and Amicus that once inhabited the two-tiered space now hosting Riverwalk Cafe. Owners Peter and Kevin Gaudreau have kept the basic decor: long chic bar and small tables on the lower level, dining area and open kitchen on the upper level.

The dining area still has an Italianate look, with a balustrade along the balcony edge, a huge urn of silk flowers near the kitchen, and soft globe lights hanging from the ceiling. The tables are topped with linen (no bistro butcher paper here) and fresh flowers. A mural of the Providence skyline along the riverfront wraps around one end of the lower room; another of the restaurant's kitchen and chef is on the end wall of the kitchen's space (handicapped diners, though, are presumably relegated to the smoky downstairs bar area).

The menu concentrates on seafood, with a nod to the locals' craving for pasta and the ongoing fascination with items from the grill, be it filet mignon, swordfish, or pizza. Here and there, a diner wanting meatless dishes could choose a vegetable timbale (with Vermont chevre), a Gorgonzola portobello, salads -- the Riverwalk chopped salad with chick peas, capers, and feta was popular on the evening we were there -- or from "cafe specialties," a dish called "in praise of winter vegetables." Curious about the latter, I inquired about which vegetables the chef was using and was surprised when the first two mentioned were summer squash and spinach. Not what I had in mind as "winter vegetables."

Confusions over ingredients persisted throughout our meal. The starting line-up ranged from "crispy shrimp" and lobster spring rolls to "spiced sea scallops" and steamed mussels. Bill pounced on the ceviche ($9.50), listed as "citrus-tossed sweet bay scallops, calamari and shrimp." The dish was heavy on lime and lemon juice, as promised, with chewy squid rings, small chunks of chopped scallops, chopped tomatoes, and cilantro. But the shrimp consisted of perhaps one shrimp finely chopped and distributed in the portion we received. The taste of this dish was bright and fresh, but we were definitely disappointed about the shrimp.

Bypassing the quartet of pastas and the quintet from the grill, we both selected items from the "cafe specialties": "tangy barbecue mahi-mahi" ($19.95) and venison tenderloin ($20.95). Bill's venison offered pan-seared slices, tender and rare, in a mustard bordelaise sauce atop sauteed bok choy. It was accompanied by sweet potatoes and slices of poached pear, good strong tastes to offset the game. He was quite pleased with his entrée.

The mahi-mahi (in fact a dolphinfish, not the dolphin mammal) was delicious, in a citrus and ginger sauce. The bit of red and streaked grilling on the top must have been the allusion to "barbecue" in its title. But that's ok. Real barbecue sauce would have overwhelmed it. The crispy deep-fried onion slices on top were a nice visual touch.

The problem arose with the menu's description of "roasted lobster and corn hash" as a side to the fish. The "hash" consisted of corn niblets, finely diced sweet red pepper, and chunks of purple Peruvian potatoes. No discernible lobster. No discernible roasting. Not very hash-like, since the veggies floated in the mah-mahi's ginger-flavored juice. As a signature dish for the restaurant, this should be properly described and properly executed.

The desserts offered that evening were a chocolate/almond flan, a lavender crème brûlée, cheesecake with berries, and a chocolate mousse teardrop, touted as a Riverwalk specialty. We opted to split the teardrop ($6), so named for its shape, with the mousse surrounded by a thin dark chocolate glaze. It made for a delicious variation on a classic dessert.

Executive chef Kevin Gaudreau is on the right track with his menu and chef de cuisine Bryan Tortorella is executing tricky dishes such as venison and a thick-fleshed fish steak with a deft hand. But competition is so fierce on the Providence restaurant scene that they must take care to distinguish themselves (and their dishes) in ways upon which they agree and that match the menu. That's the only way to capture customers and hang on to them.

Issue Date: April 5 - 11, 2002