It's tricky business being hungry while ranging the wilds of Rhode Island. If you haven't left home with a list of safe places to eat, you could end up resorting to woodchuck. Not to worry, though, if you're near Hopkinton. There's a place called Zamperini's The Thirty 2nd Grille that will feed you right.

Family restaurants -- which tend to predominate in rural areas -- usually offer some bargains, although if the food isn't good, even free stuff wouldn't be much of a deal. As soon as we stepped in the door here, the bargain part was evident on the specials board: pot roast, turkey, or chicken dinner for only $8.95. Enough to make you wish you had a flock of kids.

As far as culinary quality, we had reason to hope. When we last visited in 1995, the executive chef was Peter Devine, formerly of Capriccio's and Capital Grille, and we had a fine meal. The Zamperini family took over five years ago, with Jay Zamperini in the kitchen. Fortunately, they kept the high standards as well as the floral decor motif. Dizzying swirls on the carpet, vying with the flower garden wallpaper. In a similar touch, the tables and bentwood chairs are in de rigueur white oak. Apparently, the Family Restaurant Guild arranges group furniture purchases.

In addition to the obligatory children's menu with five-buck clam strip and cheeseburger plates, there's a full bar for the grown-ups, as well as a sampling of inexpensive but well-selected wines. That balance between little and big customers is maintained throughout the menu. The appetizers, for example, include mozzarella sticks and chicken fingers as well as clams casino and stuffed mushrooms, all $6 or $7.

The calamari appetizer, which had been sautéed in garlic butter during our previous visit, had been a welcome variation. Nowadays the preparation is the omnipresent batter fried version ($6.95), but it's done right. The squid rings are served with a tasty marinara sauce on the side and demonstrate why tradition is more than just a song in Fiddler On the Roof. Instead of sampling Zamperini's New England clam chowder, I tried the French onion soup ($2.75), a favorite that I usually order when I can. Not only was it cheap, it was delicious, with plenty of cheese.

Service was prompt and friendly. The little touches went both ways: the bread, Italian, was bland, but warm; the house salads had iceberg lettuce, but also wedges of ripe, flavorful tomatoes.

You can get all the usual fried seafood at Zamperini's, as well as broiled versions. The other main course categories are veal, beef, chicken (getting the picture, vegetarians?), and "Italian Specialties." Johnnie had the broiled sea scallops ($14.95). They were done up in butter and white wine, topped with seasoned cracker crumbs, and served with a baked potato (her choice), steamed cauliflower, and broccoli. I heard no complaints from her side of the table. In a pasta mood, I was a happy diner after the Italian seafood combo ($13.95) was set before me. Chopped clams dominated the red sauce, kindly, accompanied by squid rings, shrimp, and lots and lots of tiny bay scallops. Quite good. That the linguini beneath it was al dente didn't hurt, either.

The desserts aren't made in-house, and since we were full we didn't try such possibilities as double-chocolate layer cake, cheesecake, chocolate pudding, and tapioca. We did, however, make sure to take one of their pizzas home with us. They're baked in a wood-fired oven and numerous varieties are offered, from $5.50 to $12.75. You can build your own, depending on toppings and whether it's a 12- or 16-incher. Or you can select from among numerous red or white specialty pies, ranging from taco to eggplant among the former, and veggie to prosciutto for the latter, for $8.95 to $12.95.

We chose what was billed as a potato pizza, which was a modest description since the active ingredient was a more readily touted sautéed chicken, although the roasted potatoes were a worthwhile accompaniment. As with my soup, the cheese here was bountiful -- to a fault according to my dining mate -- with ricotta as well as plenty of mozzarella. (Johnnie remarked that it was "like eating a chicken lasagna.")

Well, if one of the worst things you can say about a restaurant is that it's too generous, both you and it are doing pretty well.

Bill Rodriguez can be reached at billrod@reporters.net.

Issue Date: December 13 - 20, 2001