In a neighborhood renowned for great Italian food, the West End Cafe has found its niche. Combining the friendliness of a corner bar, the upscale but laid-back atmosphere of a cigar lounge, and a menu that can accommodate the appetites of anyone from six to 60, this restaurant has created a loyal following.

Owners Mark Sousa and Michael Lepizzera Jr. have been intent on achieving just this. Sousa is adamant that customers can "have it their way" with menu items. And although he's dropped the jazz evenings (due to lack of interest), he still books live music Wednesday through Saturday nights. On a recent Wednesday, the lounge, with its dozen or so overstuffed loveseats, was jamming.

Despite some staff shortages and the temporary replacement of a cook (due to a death in the family), it was obvious on the evening we visited that Sousa and Lepizzera take pride in the service and food they provide. And unlike many bar/restaurants, they will make anything on the menu until closing time.

To match the coziness of the lounge, the non-smoking dining room has been outfitted with ergonomic chairs, or so it seems. Upholstered chairs (in a soft rose color) have curves that all but make you lean back in satisfaction. They're pulled up to tables covered with white linen and butcher paper, alongside avocado walls. The black woodwork is picked up in a few black-framed posters, although the wall decoration does get a bit busy.

The menu ranges from typical bar fare -- nachos, chicken wings, sandwiches, and pizzas, including a Black Angus variation -- to pan-blackened mahi-mahi and veal cutlets. There are also 10 pasta options, from house-smoked chicken to roasted eggplant caponata, over a choice of four pastas.

I liked the sound of the mixed seafood risotto ($19.95), and Bill zeroed in on the Black Angus sirloin ($17.95). But we agreed that the "Twilight Special," $40 for dinner for two (Wednesday to Friday, 4:30 to 7:30 p.m.) looked like a great deal. Included in that price is any entree from the regular menu (not the specials of the night), a bottle of wine, and even dessert. The entrees come with salads, your choice of house or Caesar. We both went imperial, and the latter had a nice, light, egg-less dressing.

We also ordered, from the dozen appetizers, the polenta Napoleon ($7.95). Inspired by the layered-pastry namesake, Napoleons of all sorts have been popping up and they offer vertical creativity. This one had homemade polenta with broccoli rabe, tomatoes, peppers, and plenty of garlic -- a delicious beginning.

Bill reverted to a wordless carnivore over his steak, which was heaped with onions in a balsamic and honey glaze. He also liked his creamy garlic mashed potatoes. The vegetable of the day, however, asparagus, might better have been termed day-old. Tough and bitter, it was a disappointment on the plate.

My dish arrived with three littlenecks, two shrimp, and a generous amount of swordfish chunks. But rather than the saffron broth described on the menu, it was a heavy tomato sauce, over risotto. The seafood and the sauce were delicious, but the arborio could have been a bit crunchier for my taste.

The desserts at West End are made by the pastry chef and feature a triple-chocolate cake, carrot cake, cheesecake, and raspberry torte, among others. I fell for the raspberry, Bill for the chocolate. They were handsomely presented, garnished with whipped cream and fresh orange slices.

With only one hitch in our waiter's flow (waiting for the check), we were duly impressed with the service, as the host pitched in to bus tables and the staff helped each other cover their shortages that evening. Chef Michael Martini came to West End from Capriccio and the former Boathouse, but his sous-chef, Elijah Magrane, filled in that night.

The West End Cafe certainly seems like a fun hang-out for families and couples in the dining room, and for small or large clumps of friends in the bar and lounge. Be forewarned, however. We sat near the door of the dining room, and I was quite aware of the smoke. If you ask to be seated farther into the room, you'll probably be fine.

Issue Date: November 2 - 8, 2001