As the number of award-winning chefs and restaurants in the state proliferated throughout the '90s, culinary professionals organized themselves into the Chef's Association of Rhode Island (officially formed in 1998). The impetus for CARI was not just to gather socially, according to member Ellen Loconto, but to "join efforts and donate to the community -- to give back to those who have served us so well."

To that end, CARI has an entry-level placement system for students in culinary job-training programs; scholarships for culinary arts students; and an annual fundraising event to benefit community outreach and training at places such as the Genesis Center and the Rhode Island Community Food Bank. This year's designated recipient is the Amos House Culinary Program, a 12-week training for physically and mentally challenged individuals.

This charity was selected by Nino D'Urso, the executive chef of Capriccio since it opened almost 27 years ago, and winner of CARI's 2003 lifetime culinary achievement award. D'Urso will be honored at a fundraising dinner this Sunday, January 19, at the Providence Marriott Hotel, with a menu based on ingredients and preparations typical of his birthplace, Sorrento, Italy. More than a dozen CARI members from around the state will participate in this seven-part meal, whose dishes were selected by D'Urso, including the filet mignon with shrimp and foie gras.

D'Urso entered the hospitality and culinary arts trade while still a teenager. Coming from a family of six, his parents couldn't afford college, though he did earn a culinary arts degree from Instituto Professionale Bi-Stato, Italy's national culinary school. He went on to train at Capri's Quisisana Hotel and to work as executive chef at Little Venice in Hamilton, Bermuda. "It was an old-fashioned way to be trained," he recalls. "We went through all types of food and we spent more time in the field and in the kitchen cooking than in a classroom."

D'Urso joined Capriccio's as its first executive chef in 1976 and eventually became a partner in the business with Vincenzo Iemma, who is also a co-owner of Cafe Nuovo. He has witnessed "big, big changes" in the Providence restaurant scene. "There are a lot of young chefs and the food is completely different," D'Urso says. "Back then, we used things like pork fat -- the food was so heavy."

The culinary veteran believes that people really want to eat in a more healthy way, and he's always on the lookout for quality products, whether they are imported, such as Kobe beef from Japan, or locally acquired, such as squash blossoms from his home garden in Cranston or 500 pounds of wild hen-of-the-woods mushrooms from a private supplier. "When I come in to the restaurant each day," this still-enthusiastic chef explains, "I look around at the specials, I look to see what's fresh for that day and what's best to offer my customers."

For tickets ($125) to Sunday's dinner, call Ellen Loconto at (401) 454-4065.

Issue Date: January 17 - 23, 2003