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Dining
Restaurant Reviews

    Galway HouseGalway House:  Where 1950s specialities live at 1980s prices
    Getting tired of reading about $40 steaks, $60 steaks, $120 Japanese Wagyu beef steaks?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    The BeehiveThe Beehive:  Boho chic never tasted so good
    This is the kind of restaurant that I’ve always loved and haven’t found in a long time.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    All Star Sandwich BarAll Star Sandwich Bar:  A star is born in Inman Square
    The All Star Sandwich Bar has the greatest cornbread I’ve ever tasted.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Zenna Noodle BarZenna Noodle Bar:  Regional stability in a bowl of soup
    What’s three times better than a Vietnamese restaurant?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Mooo . . . .Mooo . . . .:  Yet another steak house with cash-cow dreams
    This week’s victim: the Federalist, recently recast as Mooo.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Potbellies KitchenPotbellies Kitchen:  With food this good, you won't mind the bulge
    Two trends are currently sweeping through the food universe: lavishly upscale steak houses and modest bistros featuring local produce.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Red SkyRed Sky:  At night, delight. But take warning.
    The pitch for Red Sky is that it’s nicer, more upscale, and appeals to a slightly older crowd than the other nightspots around Faneuil Hall.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    The Mission Bar + GrillThe Mission Bar + Grill:  It’s not impossible to find good food in a bar
    So this is bar food, and it has its own rules.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    SageSage:  Bistro on the verge of greatness
    It’s already quite popular, so don’t wait till the fall rush.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    KO PrimeKO Prime:  Steak: well done
    KO stands for Ken Oringer, of Clio, Uni, Toro, and La Verdad.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Garden at the CellarGarden at the Cellar:  This Cambridge gastropub is blooming with local flavors
    You can hardly eat better in Boston than you will here.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    VernissageVernissage:  Russian around for decent Siberian food
    I was working on the Russian paradox, when it slapped me right in the column!
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Flat Iron Tapas BarFlat Iron Tapas Bar:  Big tatses, small packages
    You can assemble small plates that add up to protein, vegetable, and starch, but it won’t feel like dinner.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Geoffrey’s CaféGeoffrey’s Café:  Scores with low prices and upscale comfort food
    I was asked recently why all the new restaurants are so expensive.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    RoccaRocca:  Small plates rock big taste in SoWa
    We don’t always want to be stunned; otherwise more of us would keep electric eels as pets.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Phuket Thai RestaurantPhuket Thai Restaurant:  Hard-hitting fusion food both novel and traditional
    Now, later generations of Thai restaurateurs are beginning to re-fuse Thai cuisine with dishes more familiar to American customers.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    BrownstoneBrownstone:  A new identity for an old home
    A lot of good but fake Mexican food has been made under the bridge where Prairie Star used to be located.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Grain and SaltGrain and Salt:  From the earth, with love
    There are three holy grails we seek on the restaurant-review beat.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    SaucietySauciety:  What happens when you apply lit crit to a restaurant?
    Hotel dining rooms are a large investment poured over a contradiction.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    O YaO Ya:  Pomo Asian with some of the best sashimi around
    This is the New York–iest restaurant we’ve ever had in Boston, and it’s not for the faint of wallet.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Green Street GrillGreen Street Grill:  Ditching the Caribbean for New England? Surprisingly, it works.
    People always send me press materials about new chefs and new menus, but it’s my experience that restaurants are what they are.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    King Fung Garden IIKing Fung Garden II:  Are you ready to join the cult?
    It was with considerable interest that I noticed a new King Fung Garden had opened in Brookline.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Burtons GrillBurtons Grill:  Who says chains can't be enterprising?
    The menu says Burtons has upscale-casual dining, contemporary American cuisine, and atmosphere.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Trattoria di MonicaTrattoria di Monica:  Everything old is new again
    I can do North End nostalgia with the best of them.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Gari Japanese FusionGari Japanese Fusion:  Not just another fish face in the crowd
    There are only, what, 452 sushi bars within three blocks of Coolidge Corner?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Miel Brasserie ProvençaleMiel Brasserie Provençale:  A little bit of everything, with honey on top
    What does it mean when Boston’s leading daily doesn’t review a major new restaurant until three months after it opens?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    PopsPops:  Delicious, well-priced food is music to our ears
    Are you ready for fusion comfort food?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    SagraSagra:  Third time brings the charm
    This is my third trip to this space in as many years.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Deep EllumDeep Ellum:  Good Food + Drink = Boho Chic
    Deep Ellum is a one-room pub with 22 draught taps and a great collection of bottled microbrews, specialty mixed drinks, and wine.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    51 Lincoln51 Lincoln:  Creative cuisine in Newton
    I last reviewed Jeff Fournier when he was chef at the Metropolitan Club.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Tartufo at the BrickyardTartufo at the Brickyard:  Bringing the North End to North Cambridge — or trying to
    The first Tartufo in Newton Centre was described as an attempt to reproduce the North End in the suburbs.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Sasso Restaurant and BarSasso Restaurant and Bar:  New ownership looks good on you
    The way the present economy is playing out, a lot of small restaurants are now taking over larger and more expensive spaces.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Greek IslesGreek Isles:  Something for the mortals, something for the gods
    Greek Isles is owned and run by the former staff of Nikos, in Brookline Village, which lost its lease.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Phò HóaPhò Hóa:  Good soup, fo' sho'
    Since the original Pho Pasteur opened in 1992, Boston and Dorchester have become home to numerous small restaurants whose names begin with “pho,” the beef noodle soup of Hanoi that is now one of the most popular crossover dishes in Vietnamese-American restaurants.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    La Brace Italian GrilleLa Brace Italian Grille:  Grilled to perfection
    La Brace is a small, splendid North End restaurant featuring grilled foods with just enough red sauce to satisfy the neighborhood.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    MelaMela:  Traditional Indian food, on the rocks
    When I heard that this space had been taken over by One World Cuisine, I knew it would end up handsomely decorated, with above-average food.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Goody Glover’sGoody Glover’s:  The new North End? Irish and fusion and witches . . . Oh my!
    Reviewing an Irish pub in the North End?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Rustic KitchenRustic Kitchen:  Long, complicated story. Good, accessible food
    Rustic Kitchen is actually the third restaurant of its name in Boston (with another in Hingham).
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Z Square Restaurant + BarZ Square Restaurant + Bar:   Nostalgia tastes good
    Remember when Harvard Square had all-night cafeterias filled with procrastinating students and desperate local bohemians?
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    AniseAnise:  An ‘A’ for effort, but not a perfect sum
    Be careful what you wish for. I have been asking Chinese restaurants to upscale their service, shorten their menus, make clear what the chef’s specialties really are, and offer the more-authentic dishes on the English-language menu.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Petit Robert BistroPetit Robert Bistro:  Meet the new Robert, same as the old Robert
    This is Petit Robert Bistro #2, or II, or deux. Or, since this space, formerly Rouge, is smaller than the original Petit Robert, maybe it’s Plus Petit Robert.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Zoe’s Gourmet Chinese Cuisine (Brookline)Zoe’s Gourmet Chinese Cuisine (Brookline):  Twice isn’t always as nice
    There were extreme reactions to the news that Zoe’s, which has another location in Somerville, was taking over Shalom Beijing (formerly Shalom Hunan).
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    Bin 26 EnotecaBin 26 Enoteca:  Whine and whimsy in Beacon Hill
    The little space that used to be Torch has been taken over by Babak Bina and Azita Bina-Seibel of Lala Rokh.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


    BouchéeBouchée:  Standardized French fare, done well
    Bouchée does so many things well that even some of its drawbacks may be successful.
    By: ROBERT NADEAU


* *
BLOGS
  "Gimme More" music video
posted at 10:26 AM / 10.5.2007
  The Downward Spiral
posted at 5:06 PM / 10.1.2007
  Gimme more
posted at 6:22 PM / 9.28.2007
  WOE
posted at 4:30 PM / 9.27.2007
  We feel the same way
posted at 2:52 PM / 9.25.2007
  Make It Stop
posted at 3:50 PM / 9.24.2007
  "S" word!
posted at 2:28 PM / 9.17.2007


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